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Ive built a wiring diagram for a guitar to give it a very wide varity of sound, but is it practical and affordable? Answered

This wireing allows the player to control all aspects of having 3 humbucking pickups, but is it worth it?
in the picture it shows 3 humbucking pickups. the middle and neck are small humbucking pickups (single-sized)
in order to do this a portion of my guitar wil need to be taken out (or I have to find a new pickgaurd that will fit, which Ibanez does not have in stock) to make room for the new electonics
this is permantent, so before I hackaway at my guitar I need to make sure i can afford this and that it will work and be practiacal


It looks as if you still have you coil cutting switch wired to short out the coils and in some switch positions you are shorting out the inputs to the amp. Not the best scenario for the amp. Can you show me another wiring diagram that shorts out the coils in this situation?

what exactly are you asking?
i received the information for the coil cutting off of this website
on there the wireing is the same

Nowhere on that site do I find any diagram that shorts out the INPUT to the amp.

But, don't worry about it, I'm sure it'll be just fine.

i think you should
well id like to correct myself if i am wrong. the circuit shorts that coils signal to the amp but leaves the other coils signal to go through the sereis/paralell switch which if its in the paralell position should allow signal that hassnt been cut to be played through theamp
is that right?
i dont seeexactly where the signal to the amp is shorted out. im confussed

The coil you are "cutting" should be disconnected from the input.

There is a short in only some of the switch positions, not all of them.

If the input to the amp is shorted then NO signal is going to the amp' Some amps may be damaged by shorting the input.

I can see where signal is shorted now such as a configuration like coil A is cut while pickup is in series.
so how do I "cut" the signal with out shorting it and still have the settingsof A,B, or both?

oh and themomentary switch directly shorts all signal on the guitarpurposely as a killswitch if needed i can remove it

Move the cutout switch to the output of the pickups so that the output of the switch goes to the next switches. It might be hard to do what you want with the switch you have.

I see my website has been referenced. However, a month ago my domain name 1728.com was stolen. So, the link should now be http://www.1728.org/guitar.htm



7 years ago

Without commenting on the practicality of your wiring, it looks like all your POTs are wired in an unconventional fashion.

Normally POTs would be wired as voltage dividers: input signal on one end, GND on the other end, and the output signal is the wiper (the center pin). You've wired these differently--they don't strictly form dividers.

There would certainly be attenuation when the wiper is turned toward GND. But series resistance is also added which doesn't effect the voltage directly--it does increase the impedance, however.

There is some precedence: the volume controls on the classic Fender 5c3 Deluxe amp are wired like this. But it definitely sounds different if you wire them "conventionally" (I've used this tone stack/volume on some of my builds), so it will change how your guitar sounds, especially in the mid range of the POT.

How it will change the sound is impossible to predict, because the the input impedance of amps, effects, etc. are all different.

oh ok I see what you mean now ill change it

ah I see, see im useing Ibanez and I know very little about Fenders. It probably could have helped to know that it exists already so I could check my wireing with that one

Again Ive only got my one guitar, so if the wireing is too complicated for this or its not practical I need to know really I just want to have a wide varyity of sound that cantbeacheived through pedals andsuch

I was only using the 5e3 tone stack as an example of how unusual it is. The volume and tone controls are very interactive in that design, too, which a lot of people don't care for.

Not to mention that you've got the POTs stacked three deep in series (tone, volume, master volume), so any unwanted impedance issues will be cumulative. You should redraw the diagram with normal dividers.

Check out some of the alt schems on guitarnuts, that info may help. The one by Jeff Cites for instance (quote from pdf):
"In his case, he is employing three humbuckers, each with a coil tap switch. Mathematically, this calculates to 94 different combinations of series/parallel, single/double-coil sounds."

sowhat does this mean i need to do?

Volume Control

You've got it so the input is the center pin, output is one end, ground is the other.

Change it to:
-- Input is one end.
-- Ground is the other end.
-- Output is the center.

Here's a pic of a classic V divider setup, which is also the classic "volume control." Vin is one end. GND is at the bottom (other end). Vout is the center pin of the POT.

Of course, in a POT the two resistors are a continuous variable strip of resistance...

Tone Controls

You're a bit off here, too. Keep in mind that the signal doesn't "pass through" a passive tone control like a volume control.

Rather, the high frequencies are "rolled off" to the ground through a capacitor.

I've included a different picture here. Because the the signal doesn't "pass through", this builder uses the center wiper for the input, which wouldn't work right--if the tone were a voltage divider (unlike a volume cont., it's not). You can just at easily use one end for the input, and the center for the cap/shunt to GND. No difference here.


ok ive changed it once more. Is that right?

Here's a quick sketch, modified from your original. Just to clarify:

-- Black is GND.

-- Red is the input to the "stack" (output of the pickups).

-- Blue is the output of the "stack," from the the center tap of the volume POT.

The tone control bleeds high frequencies off the incoming signal, and shunts them to GND.

Does that help?


actually that helps tremendously
I see now that on the tone there is no need for GND to be on the pot rather if the cap is simply grounded and therefore shunting it

so now that w have all the wireing correct, what do you think about the practicallity of the build? as I said before this would require extreame operation the guitar although i can remove the selector switch (which ill need to anyway) and use that space

Yeah. It's also typical that the Tone POT case is grounded because it's in direct contact with the pickguard shield, and the cap is soldered to the POT case. All you need is a GND connection somewhere.

The "star grounding" approach is a good choice. 

Note that it doesn't matter WHERE along the red wire the Tone control input is connected. The red wire is continuous. You could move the Tone cntl way over to the right and connect it off the Volume POT input, and it will work the same. Anywhere, so long as it's connected directly to RED and not blue (or black, obviously).

RE: the Killswitch--that's fine. It's the normal way to wire one. No problem with grounding amp inputs, in fact most modern amps have "grounding jacks" that keep inputs grounded until you insert a plug. Keeps noise to a minimum.

Lemme look at the rest sometime later...I've got an eye infection; my left eye is swollen shut... ;-/

ok ill just connect that case to the other pots case then ground both of them
star grounding?
ok. im slowly startingto get thesethings
ok, see you later. hope you get well