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My front door has ripped half way off it's hinge? Answered

Just wondering if I am on the right track by drilling new holes and filling them with dowel(wood) and then re drilling?


Move the hinge up/down to fresh wood and hang it properly. You can fill-in / cover up the mess left by the old hinge. L

Okay, been doing repairs on worn screw holes for years. You can use a dowel to fill the hole, yes, but it's often easier (and better) to take a piece of scrapwood and cut a thick splinter off of it with a utility knife or chisel. the section you want to use is the part that's slightly thicker than the hole. Just break the splinter by hand til you have the working end that inserts easily about !/2" into the hole. Fill the hole with glue, apply a little to the filler piece end and rub it around the shaft with your finger. Insert it into the hole. tap into place with a hammer or other piece of wood. wait about 15 Minutes and snap the end off the splinter. Wait another hour or so and use a chisel or utility knife to trim the filler flush. wait another two hours and redrill the hole., presumably you'd have done all three holes at once.... The final wait is so the glue can set up enough for drilling... It's quite useful (and sensible) to use a self-centering (also known as Dixie bits) bit if you can, rather than attempting to center the holes by eye or using a pen/pencil to place the center-mark. Place the portion of the hinge that normally goes on the frame (or door) back into place and drill the holes. Ballparking hinge screw holes is bad, because if the screw are off, they'll stand high of the hingeplate, and can cause binding between the frame a door hinge plates when at the closed position, causing undue stress on the hinge screws. This stress, encountered each time the door closes, results in eventual lossening of the screw/wood joint. Finally, why use a splinter rather than a dowel? A tapered, squre shaped rapir piece will hold better to the worn hole, without any need for redrilling to fit the repair piece, because it has several sharp edges to grid the walls of the existing screw hole, because it allows automatic compsenation for the natural taper of the screw hole, it carries more glue than a fitted dowel, and it's just so much easier.

And just for the record, you almost don't need glue for a square crossectional, tapered repair "dowels". the pressure of being tapped in and the "bite" between the sharp corners and the round hole does half the work, glue just seals the deal...hahaha...

Always tap these into place with a mallet of some sort. They'll stop on their own, unless you go crazy with the hammer...

I'm assuming that nothing traumatic happened to the door/hinge and that this just happened. If that's the case then putting another new hinge in the same spot will create the same problem, unless it was a fualty hinge to begin with. I thought that this hinge failed because it was not installed correctly/exactly and repeated openings and closings of the door caused the hinge to shear itself until it failed completely. If this is the case, then a new hinge fitted correctly will solve the problem. Good luck. ;-)

Put a new hinge on it. There isn't much else you could do about it, and besides hinges aren't very expensive.

Make sure the dowel holes are not too tight if you are gluing dowels in. Otherwise, you'll wipe the glue off as you are pushing the dowels in, and the joints will not be very strong.