Did you ever figure it out? I have spent a couple of years trying to get my eldred wireless to work. Finally did. Let me know if your are still trying and I'll let you know how I did it.
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LET ME KNOW HOW YOU DID IT,, BOUGHT THIS FOR BROTHERS 60 BDAY HE JUST TURNED 64.....LUV TO SEE HOW YOU DID IT
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. It took me a while to figure out (years) but it's actually pretty easy once you know what you are doing. I am assuming you have the coil. Nothing gets attached to the top where the buzzer is. There should be three brass contacts on the coil. Two on one side and one on the bottom. There should also be 3 existing wires inside the box. Wire #1 should be attached to the frame that holds the fuel canister in place. Wire #2 should be attached to the switch that opens when you pull the lighter into the open position. Wire #3 goes up the neck of the lighter and creates the spark when you pull the lighter open. My ignition wire was in bad shape and I had to replace it. If the insulation in the neck is cracked the spark leaks out of the wire before it gets to the tip. I used a spark plug wire to replace it with. I had to heat the little ceramic insulator at the to of the neck and it slid out with a little coaxing. The old igniter wire was rigid but the new wire is flexible and easy to adjust. Once you have the wires that reside inside the box in good shape you are ready to go. You will also need two 6 volt lantern batteries and two additional pieces of wire. Some wire connectors and some flux will also make the soldering go a little smoother. The wiring goes as follows: Wire #1 goes from the frame of the bracket that holds the fuel tank to the negative terminal of one of the batteries. Wire #2 goes from the switch behind the fuel canister to bottom terminal of the coil. Wire #3 goes from the igniter to lower terminal on the side of the coil. (The closest one to the single terminal on the bottom.) Wire #4 (added wire) goes from the positive terminal on the opposite battery you connected wire #1, to the top terminal on the side of the coil. Wire #5 (added wire) goes from the positive terminal of the battery with wire #1 attached to it to the negative terminal of the other battery. I soldered all of the connections and used some disconnecting terminals so I could change the batteries. It's been almost a year and I have't had to replace the batteries. Some side notes: When I replaced the ignition wire I couldn't solder the new spark plug wire so I bought a brass coupler that had a screw in the middle. I used the screw on the spark plug wire and soldered the entire coupler to the coil. I also roughed up the terminals on the coil with some sandpaper to make the solder stick a little better and used some flux paste. Make sure you make all the connections before you try it. I got shocked a couple times messing around with the lighter before I had ground wire attached. Please feel free to let me know if you are having any issues and I will try to help you. I can even send some pictures if that helps. My email is firstname.lastname@example.org if you want to contact me directly.Thanks,Victor
P.S. My coil looks like the sketch below, not the one in the picture at the top of the post. I got mine from Lang's old car parts.
Most probably the condenser (capacitor) is going to be bad. You can replace it with a modern one.
not even close, no capacitor or condenser involved
It's internal you see. If it's shorted you coil won't work.
Why did you edit out the description about how you couldn't get it to work?
I had these stored on my ext HDD from an old project I did a few years ago. I don't have a link to the site where I found them, but these may answer your questions.
really no help at all .......the round table, gift store sells a repo. but won't send me part # or diagram..coil needs to be grounded as all mech. parts are brass, it is the same coil as a midland jump spark ligther...can't get anything useful off your drawing sorry
If you'll bother to read the schematic you'll see that the ground is thru the low tension wiring (primary) on the top.