Introduction: 3D Cloth Facemask Design for Improved Fit and Comfort.

This pleated 3D cloth facemask design is the result of extended research that evaluated different popular designs found on the Internet, paying particular attention to fit and comfort.

Who doesn’t have a pile of facemasks that they are not using anymore, because they are not comfortable? The truth is that choosing a face mask is not easy. Yes, the facemask must be breathable and the material has to filter efficiently. But the fit of the design is of paramount importance.

Many patterns are not designed to be worn over an extended period of time and will easily slip down the nose or move when talking. The multiples folds of this design offer a superior fit. The folds also extend the filtering surface, which improves the filtration capacity and reduces the air leakages on the sides and around the nose. This is caused by the pressure drop, which is reduced by the bigger filtration area while exhaling. I designed this facemask pattern for better fit and more comfort even when wearing over a long period of time. The pattern reduces involuntary manipulations of the facemask because the mask will move less. The design should significantly decrease the amount of fog on glasses.

Supplies

  • Tightly woven natural fabric as cotton, linen or silk*.
  • Elastic
  • Flat aluminium strip (5mm wide x approximately 9mm)
  • Sewing machine and thread
  • Fabric scissors
  • Pins
  • Ruler
  • Chalk pencil
  • Iron

* Silk is a very appealing choice because it absorbes less humidity. However, when choosing silk I suggest adding a layer of silk organza on the inner side to make the structure stiffer. Without an underlay of organza the silk facemask will collapse and stick to the nose and mouth while breathing.

Step 1: Select and Cut Your Material

You’ll need two layers of your chosen material.

Cut two rectangles that measure 20 cm x 30 cm each. It is easier to work if your fabric has been ironed.

Step 2: Vertical Pleat | Part 1

To make the central pleat of the design you will be measuring on the 30cm side of the fabric. With a chalk pencil, mark 13 cm from the side on the top and bottom of the fabric. Draw a line to connect the marks. Do the same for the other side. This will leave 4 cm in the center which will become your central pleat. Fold the fabric along these lines (with the markings inside the fold) and press with the iron.

Step 3: Vertical Pleat | Part 2

Reverse the fabric and make a small chalk mark at the centre on the top and bottom on the 30cm side. Then draw small measurement markers that are 4cm away from the centre on the top and bottom, on each side of the centre. This means that one line will be 11 cm from the side and the second one will be at 19 cm from that same side.

Using the marks that are 11 cm, fold the fabric so that these marks meet at the centre and iron the folds down. Repeat with the marks at 19 cm.

Repeat all of these steps (Part 1 and Part 2) with the second layer of fabric. The side with the pleat will be the outer side of the facemask.

Step 4: Stack and Sew the Two Layers Together

Stack the two layers of fabric both facing the same direction, tucking one pleat inside the other.

Once the layers are stacked, iron on each side. Make sure the layers are well stacked. Sew the layers together with an overlook sewing machine or with a domestic sewing machine using a zigzag stitch to lock the fabric. Sew all 4 sides.

The outside of the facemask design is where the pleat shows and the inside of the design is the where the pleat is hidden.

Step 5: Add a Nose Clip

Adding a nose clip will noticeably improve the fit around the nose.
Fold and iron the upper and lower side to the inside of the facemask. The inside of the design is the side where you have the slot at the center, not the pleat. The folds should be 1.5 cm on each side.

Sew the folds with a regular sewing stitch. On one side add a flat aluminum wire inside the fold, this will be the upper side of the facemask. The aluminium wire should be at least 9 cm long and approximately 5 mm wide. Sew a small perpendicular line at each end of the aluminum strip to stabilize it, leaving a small gap at each end of the strip. Do not sew on the aluminum.

Find aluminium strips:

Etsy

Amazon

Step 6: Horizontal Folds of the Design | Part 1

Mark 4 lines on the right and left of the inner side of the design. Start from the top where the nose clip has been added to the bottom: make a mark at 4 cm, 10 cm, 11 cm and 16 cm.

Fold the 4 cm mark to the 10 cm mark and the 11 cm mark to the 16 cm mark, making two folds on each side of the design. Use pins to hold the folds in place. The folds should run from the edge to the centre pleat.

Once folded, the sides should be approximately 5 cm long. Iron the horizontal folds of the design.

Step 7: Horizontal Folds of the Design | Part 2

Slowly sew the edges down, removing the pins as you sew.

To finish the design, fold the side edges to the inside of the facemask design in order to get the straight lined edges. The folded fabric is irregular on the inside and will measure between 1 - 1.5 cm.

Iron these folds.

Step 8: Add the Elastics

To increase comfort, the design uses long strips of elastic that go around the head and not around the ears.
Measure two pieces of elastic. The upper one that will be attached close to the nose clip should be approximately 32 cm long. The lower one should measure approximately 22 cm. Place the ends of each of the elastics under the side folds leaving a tail of 1.5 cm inside the fold. Sew down the sides and make some small perpendicular stitches to make sure that the elastic will hold in place.

Before sewing the second side, measure the lengths of elastic by testing it on your face, in case they need to be a bit shorter.

Step 9: Verity the Fit

Make sure the mask fits well on your face.

  • If the design is slightly too big you will notice some free space around the chin. To correct that, you can add small folds (5 mm) on each side of the central fold at the bottom of the design and the air leakage will be solved.
  • If the elastics are too loose undo one side and make them shorter.

Step 10: Acknowledgements

This research was conducted as part of a Mitacs internship at Concordia University in Montreal, Canada in collaboration with IRSST (Institut de recherche Robert-Sauvé en santé et en sécurité du travail) under the supervision of Dr. Ann-Louise Davidson (Associate professor, Concordia University), Dr Ali Bahloul (Researcher, IRSST), Barbara Layne (Professor Emerita, Concordia University), and in consultation with Dr. Clothilde Brochot (Research Associate, Concordia University).

If you have comments or questions, don’t hesitate to contact me:

r.kesselring@concordia.com