3D Home Printer With Arduino

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Intro: 3D Home Printer With Arduino

I wanted to make a 3D printer for a long time. When I decided to make it, I bought necessary materials and I started with my 3D printer dreamed. I was looking for information on many websites and I saw different models, Prusa , Delta, etc. In the end, I decide to make the Delta model since it was the most attractive model for me .

Then I 'll describe you how I did it . I will start to explain you how I made the prototype needed to make pieces of the final printer, I hope you like it and you feel encouraged to make your own 3D printer.

STEP 1: Videos




STEP 2: Materials

LCD --> Price: 7,56€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/Promotion-3D-Printer...

Arduino Mega 2560 --> Price: 6,84€

http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shippi...

Ramps 1.4 --> Price: 3,73€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/RAMPS-1-4-...

4 Pololus --> Price: 1,44 x 4 = 5,76€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Red-StepSt...

Headbed --> Price: 6,40€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Geeetech-R...

Hotend 1,75 mm and mouthpiece 0.4mm --> Price: 4,40€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/FreeShipping-Long-di...

Mirror 215mm x 215mm --> Price: 5€ (bought glassware)

Kapton tape --> Price: 1,09€

http://www.ebay.es/itm/5mm-X-100ft-Cinta-Kapton-Te...

Termistor NTC 100k --> Price: 1,17€

http://www.ebay.es/itm/Termistor-Ntc-100K-Ohm-3950...

PTFE tube (1 m) (1,75mm) --> Price: 1,79€

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/1M-3D-Prin...

Aluminum extruder --> Price: 4,74€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-accessori...

6 Linear bearings --> Price: 12,52€ (10u)

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipp...

3 Endstop --> Price: 0,72€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-3D-printer...

Fan 40x40mm --> Price: 1,68€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/CoolCube-1pc-Makerbo...

6 Pulleys and 3 straps --> Price: 9,27€

http://es.aliexpress.com/item/2Pcs-20-GT2-6-GT2-Pu...

6 Stainless steel bars(80 cm of 8 mm) --> Price: 17,42€ (In hardware store)

12 traxxas 5347 --> Price: 8€ (USA)

Carbon fiber tube (6 mm) --> Price: 4€ (Decathlon)

4 stepper motors NEMA17 42HS40-1504A05-D20--> Price: 32,8€ (joint purchase)

Threaded rod --> Price: 0.80€ (In Leroy Merlin)

Screws --> Price: 4€ (In Leroy Merlin)

3 dock--> Price: 0,65€ (In Leroy Merlin)

Custard rate --> Price: 1,50€ (In Carrefour)

PC power supply (400 W) --> recovered from old pc

Filament --> Price: 20€

TOTAL PRICE --> 155,38€

STEP 3: The Electronic

Before mounting it, it is recommended to test the electronic to make sure everything works fine. To do this, we need to load the firmware in Arduino. We will use two types of firmware, Sprinter and Marlin. First we use an old version of Sprinter just to test the electronic as this allows you to move motors without having to activate the sensors. Then in the end, we will load new version of Marlin.

To carry out all this process I followed the tutorial on next website:

http://www.zonamaker.com/impresion-3d/crea-impreso...

STEP 4: Setting the Pololus

Firstly we have to adjust the pololus to limit the maximum current that will consume the engines.To do this we need a multimeter (to see the current flowing through the motor), a ceramic screwdriver and Pronterface program. What we must do is to put a motor on the connector of the extruder and make it work through Pronterface program. Then we will adjust the pololus potentiometers, one by one, until the desired values, which in our case are: 400 mA for the extruder and 200 mA for each axis (X, Y, Z). To view the current we will use the multimeter.

For this configuration I followed the tutorial on the next website:

http://www.zonamaker.com/impresion-3d/crea-impres...

I recommend you to see it, as it is very well explained and it includes some videos.

STEP 5: Preparation and Assembly of the Structure

First thing that we are going to build is the prototype. It took me a day to mount it.

We print the plane in A2 format, then the plane is placed on a wood and we cut it. This is done to both, the bottom and the top. Then we drilled holes with 8 mm drill. It is recommended to drill the holes with the two boards together to make it more accurate. At the top we will make a big hole where we will place the engine of the extruder. At the base we will make a small hole to put wires of hotbed.

To hold the filament we cut a piece of wood bar and two pieces as you can see in the pictures. We put steel rods into the holes. The pulleys are caught with a screw in the center of the edge of the wood without pressing to make it can turn easily.

We put both engines extruder such as the X, Y, Z as shown in the pictures.

STEP 6: Construction of the Arms and Support for the Hotend

For the construction of the arms, we cut six pieces of carbon fiber tube of 215 mm and 12 pieces of 50 mm threaded rod. Then in a wood, we screwed two screws at a distance of 250 mm and we will cut off the head of the screw. Then we paste the rods to carbon fiber tube and traxxas. we place these rods in the two screws that we put into the wood. This procedure must do for the 6 rods.

I used a metallic glass that are used in desserts for supporting the hotend. We cut the glass with Dremel as shown in the pictures. We assemble all the screws and put a dock to snug.

STEP 7: Construction of Supports for Bearings

For bearings I used two pieces of wood in the form of T. We made some holes to hold bearings with clips. To hold arms, I put two metal angles for each carbon fiber tube. Finally, to hold the strap it has been used staples, It has strained well and then have it all other staples. Then I tried if it was working well in the printer.

STEP 8: Placing the HotBed and EndStop

To put a glass or mirror above the HotBed, I have milled holes of hotbed to introduce the heads of the screws.. Then I have soldered a led and power cables.The thermistor has been fastened in the center of the bed with Kapton tape.

The EndStop have been fastened with the wire as you can see in the picture.

STEP 9: Firmware

For firmware settings I advise you to follow the tutorial in this website:

http://www.zonamaker.com/impresion-3d/crea-impreso...

here you have my file set. You should set it depending on the size of your printer.

STEP 10: Calibration

This is the most difficult step to make because you have to dedicate a lot time to get calibrate it perfectly.The HotBed must be leveled perfectly and make that the Hotend touch slightly a sheet between the bed and the HotEnd.

You can see these videos where the author suggests what you should do:

To calibrate the axes watch this video:

STEP 11: Finished Prototype

In the images we can see the finished prototype and some manufactured parts. As you can see the quality is not too good but enough to build the final printer.

I show you a video with the printer running:

STEP 12: Creating Parts With the Prototype

With the finished prototype we print all the parts needed for the final printer. In the images I show you these pieces.

You can download the pieces in the following file:

STEP 13: Creation and Painted the Structure of the Final Printer

We build a box for the base of the printer with pine wood. We do all holes including 2 large holes for fans, these be in charge of refrigerate all the electronics. For the backside we use a pine board. I have cut the top in a rounded shape and I have milled it. Finally we give several coats of varnish with spray, leaving as shown in the pictures.

STEP 14: Placement of Engines

We put the motors as shown in the pictures. We also place pulleys and EndStop with their pieces.

STEP 15: Placement of Arms

In this step, we just have to put the pieces together with screws and mount it on the structure of the printer.

The following file contains some improved parts.

STEP 16: Finalization of the Printer

The only thing left to do is to connect all the electronic (including the screen with the support that was printed before) and to tense the straps slightly. In the images we can see the printer already finished.

Here's a video printing:

STEP 17: Prints Made

As you can see from the pictures, the prints are already quality but to achieve it I have been almost a month calibrating everything and printing several times the printer pieces.

452 Comments

Where are you from? Can I buy these supplies from Algeria?
DEAR sir : would you kindly send the size specs eg. hole diameters for Traxxas; also can you tell me of a source for te right size Traxxas, How do I specify to them what I want? thank you.
Please sir can you kindly provide fuull secifiacation on the TRAXXAS? Where can you find the right size? Thank you
holq, could you advise me how to configure cartesian printer in repeater host printing area
Hola, me podrian decir como configurar el area de impresion en repetier host, con coordenadas cartesianas ?
Hola Mariano, primero que todo agradecerte por el completisimo tutorial que hiciste donde entré con la curiosidad de cómo podría hacer una impresora y salí decidido a llevarlo a cabo. Pero no se si tendrás algún tuto como este pero actualizado ya que al ser de hace 5 años atrás los links de compra están obsoletos y hay materiales que no logro descifrar qué son 😅. En caso que aún uses esta página te agradecería de gran manera aunque ya mande a comprar las cosas que encontré en Ali express. Muchas gracias
hola amigo buen trabajo pero tengo un problema con la configuracion de los pololus y los motores como puedo hacer para configurarlos me puedes dar una ayuda con respecto a ese problema ..?
Si usas marlin 1.9 en configuration.h selecciona el driver que has montado
Hi. Can I Use other models of Nema 17 motors (different models)
please suggest me suitable motors that I can use. Thank you


Hola. ¿Puedo usar otros modelos de motores Nema 17 (modelos diferentes)
sugiérame motores adecuados que pueda usar. Gracias
Hello, my name is Sergio, I am from Argentina I am starting with this project, you could help me with some doubts, I would like to know the thickness of the wood to be used and if the 8mm perforations must be done on a winged side. my email siroloco0308@gmail.com
What voltages are hooked up to the Mega board? The schematic is missing this information, and it is not addressed in the write-up. I'm assuming one is 5V and one is 12V?
Solo es necesario 12V en ramps, al menos en ramps1. 6 imagino que en 1.4 será igual.
No es necesario conectar 5V.

hola amigo, muy genial tu trabajo, pero quiero saber acerca del tamaño del area de impresion, cual es el tamaño con el que hiciste tu proyecto? o hasta que tamaño puedo hacerlo, puedo hacerlo hasta 360 mm?
hola como esta ? me parece muy interesante su proyecto y quiero hacer una impresora, quería preguntarle si en lugar de las varillas de fibra de carbono puedo usar unas de aluminio?
Hola, perdona la tardanza. No me he podido conectar hasta ahora. Pues si quieres puedes usar de aluminio ya que no creo que importe. El usar el de fibra de carbono era para que pesara lo menos posible, pero siendo de aluminio va a pesar poco tambien.
Hola, mi nombre es Sergio, soy de Argentina estoy comenzando con este proyecto, me podría ayudar con algunas dudas, quisiera saber el grosor de la madera que hay que utilizar y si las perforaciones de 8mm hay que hacerlas de lado alado. mi correo siroloco0308@gmail.com
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