Adirondack Chair
Intro: Adirondack Chair
For more on Adirondack Chairs, see our original story.
Our version of the Adirondack chair has come a long way from the early types that had flat backs and seats-and, we've added a matching table. Don't be intimidated by the curved slats and number of pieces in this project. Although there are a few angles and curves to cut, there's actually no fancy joinery --everything's held together with deck screws. We used cedar for these pieces because it stands up well to the elements, and it's available in the required 3/4- and 1-in. thicknesses. You could substitute pine if you plan to keep the chairs out of the weather.
STEP 1: Plans and Materials
QTY. SIZE DESCRIPTION
A. 2 1 x 5 1/4 x 33 3/4" cedar side rail
B. 1 1 x 4 1/4 x 23 1/4" cedar top back rail
C. 1 1 x 3 1/2 x 23 1/4" cedar bottom back rail
D. 9 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 23 1/4" cedar seat slat
E. 7 3/4 x 3 1/4 x 35 1/2" cedar back slat
F. 2 1 x 4 1/4 x 20 1/2 cedar front leg
G. 2 1 x 2 1/2 x 29" cedar back leg
H. 2 1 x 2 3/4 x 6 1/2" cedar arm bracket
I. 2 1 x 5 1/4 x 28" cedar arm
J. 2 1 x 5 1/4 x 16" cedar foot
K. 2 1 x 1 1/2 x 19 1/4" cedar cleat
L. 2 1 x 5 x 16 1/2" cedar leg
M. 2 3/4 x 5 x 17 1/2" cedar stretcher
N. 5 1 x 3 3/4 x 24" cedar slat
O. as required 1 5/8" No. 8 fh deck screw
P. as required 2" No. 8 fh deck screw
You can also click here to see the plans PDF.
STEP 2: Making the Seat
Cut the seat slats to size and round the upper edges of each with a 1/4-in. quarter-round bit in a router table. Then, round the exposed edges-those that won't abut other parts-of the side and back rails. Keep the router table set up for this job so you can round the edges of the other parts as they're made.
Because of the shape of the seat, most of the slats require bevels on one or both edges. Use a table saw or hand plane to cut the bevels.
STEP 3: Assemble the Seat
STEP 4: Arrange Slats
STEP 5: Attach Legs
STEP 6: Add the Back
Cut the rear legs to size, angling the top ends at 64 degrees. Clamp each rear leg to a side rail, bore and countersink screw pilot holes, and secure the legs with screws.
STEP 7: Attach Back Rail
STEP 8: Align Slats
STEP 9: Secure Slats
STEP 10: Install the Arms
STEP 11: Attach Arms
STEP 12: Make the Table
STEP 13: Attach Stretchers
STEP 14: Space Slats
STEP 15: Attach Cleats to Base, Finish
Lightly sand the chair and table with 120-grit paper. Keep in mind, though, that cedar is a soft, oily wood that doesn't sand as well as pine or hardwood. You won't achieve the silky smooth surface that you'd expect on indoor furniture.
We finished our pieces with Sikkens Cetol 1, 077 Cedar. First, wipe all the sanding dust from the wood, then apply a coat of finish with a natural-bristle brush. Allow each coat to dry for 24 hours before applying the next. Three coats should provide adequate protection from the elements.
53 Comments
jknierim55 9 months ago
Kev53 1 year ago
rdziadziu 2 years ago
Is the chair 22” wide or does it widen in the front?
wolfert 3 years ago
mejjr 3 years ago
Thanks Mel
kamalnv 3 years ago
http://pop.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/15/06/54d112e5a5fd4_-_PMX0706Adiron.pdf
Jones73 3 years ago
kamalnv 3 years ago
MariaO67 4 years ago
kamalnv 3 years ago
Joetomeo72 4 years ago
kamalnv 3 years ago
FCU-Eng225 4 years ago
can you shed light on this? Thanks, Steve
bulldawg13 9 years ago
Michael Costa 5 years ago
1) If you are going to you a specialty wood like cedar figure on about 25 board feet. There will be waste.
2) You can make one chair and the table from 1 standard 8'x4' piece of 3/4" plywood.
3) You can make one chair with 6 standard 2x6x8 lumber. You can get this pressure treated to withstand the elements.
Michael Costa 5 years ago
1) Put your chair together before rounding over all the edges. Pine and cedar are very soft woods that you will bang up and dent during the assembly process. Once the chair is together to your liking, disassemble the chair and use the pieces as templates for the 2nd chair, then round over the edges and sand. You will remove all dings and dents. You can then finish the chair while it's disassembled.
2) Use ships curve to draw in some of the angles. Tape pieces together when cutting and sanding to ensure you get exact matching pieces.
3) Don't attach seat slat 9 until after the back slats are in place. You won't have room to screw in the bottom of the back slats otherwise.
4) After attaching the center back slat, do not attach the end slats next. You'll never get the spacing correct for the other slats. Make 6, 3/8" (a tad larger) spacers and use them between the slats. Three for the top and three for the bottom. Put the 3 left (Or right) slats in place and screw them on. Then repeat on the other side. Also, the 4 inch block they used to make room does not prevent the slats from sliding off while trying to align them. Prop the chair up on its back with something that will make it horizontal so the slats don't slide. I used a box of cat litter.
I'll post pictures later.
Luiz Matta 5 years ago
I'm talking about Brazil and to sign up as premium I would like to know if the measurements of the adirondeck chair have in millimeters or only in inches
Michael Costa 5 years ago
T0BY 7 years ago
Amazing!
mbrumley 8 years ago
Sorry to be such a noob. In the plans, when the thickness is 1" does that mean really 1" or the finished .875" I find at big box stores. The same is true for the 3/4" boards. Do I use the 3/4" boards which are actually .625" finished? It seems like I would have to plane boards to end up with the literal 1" and 3/4" thicknesses. Any advice?