Bedini Monopole Mechanical Oscillator
Intro: Bedini Monopole Mechanical Oscillator
A.K.A Bedini Simplified Schoolgirl, A.K.A Bedini SSG
This concept is protected by US PAT 6545444, which means it would be illegal and also unethical to reproduce for personal financial gain.
That said however, you are allowed to make one for your personal use, which is what this instructable is all about.
This device is used to charge batteries, pretty much anything, but happiest with lead acid types.
Not LiPo cells which have very specific requirements, (LiPo being Lithium Polymer cells)
It can also recover dead NiCad cells, I acquired 2 Sanyo 1800 ma "C" sized cells, one was 0V the other 0.4V (considered dead and unable to be conventionally charged). Both cells are holding steady at 1.303V and 1.327V 3 days later.
This concept is protected by US PAT 6545444, which means it would be illegal and also unethical to reproduce for personal financial gain.
That said however, you are allowed to make one for your personal use, which is what this instructable is all about.
This device is used to charge batteries, pretty much anything, but happiest with lead acid types.
Not LiPo cells which have very specific requirements, (LiPo being Lithium Polymer cells)
It can also recover dead NiCad cells, I acquired 2 Sanyo 1800 ma "C" sized cells, one was 0V the other 0.4V (considered dead and unable to be conventionally charged). Both cells are holding steady at 1.303V and 1.327V 3 days later.
STEP 1: Preamble
The circuit I'm using is known as the SSG or simplified school girl, it has no capacitor or timing circuit, its the bare basic version shown below.
I got it from the Bedini_Monopole3 forum.
I'm not a member of this forum or any other monopole forum, I have merely come across a thread and followed various sources and info from people who have given freely of their time and energy.
Some of whom are rick friedrich, dr peter lindemann, aaron murakami and tom bearden, thanks for their solid gold efforts.
Lastly the double platinum goes to John C Bedini for obvious reasons.
with the oscars out of the way lets get on with the build :)
I got it from the Bedini_Monopole3 forum.
I'm not a member of this forum or any other monopole forum, I have merely come across a thread and followed various sources and info from people who have given freely of their time and energy.
Some of whom are rick friedrich, dr peter lindemann, aaron murakami and tom bearden, thanks for their solid gold efforts.
Lastly the double platinum goes to John C Bedini for obvious reasons.
with the oscars out of the way lets get on with the build :)
STEP 2: Disclaimers and Dangers
1 Voltage Danger
1 This circuit can put out 30 + volts DC at approx 14500 Hz in a no-load state in addition to drawing in radiant energy from the local environment.
Pictured below is a series of high voltage arcs in a neon bulb which was too close to the heatsink, input voltage is 12V DC. Usual color is a dull orange, it changed with high voltage to white core with a light pink fringe.
Needless to say the bulb was trashed, cracked glass etc.
In comparison Mains AC (from the wall) is 220V at 50 Hz, down my side of the globe anyway, which means that we're fiddling with some seriously shocking voltages here.
If you are careless you could very well be imitating one of the many rap artists around...you will be grabbing various body parts and jumping around with volumes of loud profanity.( there are better ways to fame Cyril ! )
2 Velocity Danger
The rotor, which is basically a trimmed down rollerblade/scooter wheel, has a diameter of 95mm. The magnets glued to the perimeter attain a velocity of approx 64 Kmh at 3600 rpm, doesnt sound very fast unless your body happens to be in the way if said magnets decide to let go.
Therefore this instructable is informative of nature only, I'm not saying you should build this device nor will I be held liable for injuries or damages resulting from its use.
If you are unable to accept anything outside the box, the box being our present rather old electrical engineering models which forbid a COP greater than 1 , or if the words free energy and overunity annoy the heck out of you, then proceed no further.
1 This circuit can put out 30 + volts DC at approx 14500 Hz in a no-load state in addition to drawing in radiant energy from the local environment.
Pictured below is a series of high voltage arcs in a neon bulb which was too close to the heatsink, input voltage is 12V DC. Usual color is a dull orange, it changed with high voltage to white core with a light pink fringe.
Needless to say the bulb was trashed, cracked glass etc.
In comparison Mains AC (from the wall) is 220V at 50 Hz, down my side of the globe anyway, which means that we're fiddling with some seriously shocking voltages here.
If you are careless you could very well be imitating one of the many rap artists around...you will be grabbing various body parts and jumping around with volumes of loud profanity.( there are better ways to fame Cyril ! )
2 Velocity Danger
The rotor, which is basically a trimmed down rollerblade/scooter wheel, has a diameter of 95mm. The magnets glued to the perimeter attain a velocity of approx 64 Kmh at 3600 rpm, doesnt sound very fast unless your body happens to be in the way if said magnets decide to let go.
Therefore this instructable is informative of nature only, I'm not saying you should build this device nor will I be held liable for injuries or damages resulting from its use.
If you are unable to accept anything outside the box, the box being our present rather old electrical engineering models which forbid a COP greater than 1 , or if the words free energy and overunity annoy the heck out of you, then proceed no further.
STEP 3: The Wheel and Parts :Part1
Its basically a 4inch rollerblade/scooter wheel which I have trimmed down on a drill press with a rasp to have a flat wide surface for the magnets to glue on.
Bearings are standard 608Z metal shield and NOT the rubber shield which creates some drag. The bearings are washed out with auto carb cleaner to get rid of the OEM grease. I then put in 3 drops of very light fridge compressor oil into each bearing, its a petro Canada product called Reflo68A.
It is important that the nut doesn't touch the bearings, even the slightest bit will cause binding/drag which will render the contraption pretty much useless. I tried using teflon tape on the bolt to take up shaft slack.
Possibly it would be better to mount the wheel in a vertical manner, then if something lets go it will go through the ceiling or wall and not soft body parts.
The SS screws and nuts are to add mass to the wheel, according to prevalent thought regarding pulsed systems ( Lawrence Tseung's "Lead-out" energy theory), its considered very beneficial to a pulsed system which incidentally this is.
The Wheel is mounted on an adjustable base to adjust the gap between coil and magnet for best response/rpm's, it pivots at the other end.
Since we're dealing with magnetic forces, absolutely all hardware in the wheel center should be Stainless Steel. Plain old steel would most likely absorb some of the magnetism and lower efficiency
Bearings are standard 608Z metal shield and NOT the rubber shield which creates some drag. The bearings are washed out with auto carb cleaner to get rid of the OEM grease. I then put in 3 drops of very light fridge compressor oil into each bearing, its a petro Canada product called Reflo68A.
It is important that the nut doesn't touch the bearings, even the slightest bit will cause binding/drag which will render the contraption pretty much useless. I tried using teflon tape on the bolt to take up shaft slack.
Possibly it would be better to mount the wheel in a vertical manner, then if something lets go it will go through the ceiling or wall and not soft body parts.
The SS screws and nuts are to add mass to the wheel, according to prevalent thought regarding pulsed systems ( Lawrence Tseung's "Lead-out" energy theory), its considered very beneficial to a pulsed system which incidentally this is.
The Wheel is mounted on an adjustable base to adjust the gap between coil and magnet for best response/rpm's, it pivots at the other end.
Since we're dealing with magnetic forces, absolutely all hardware in the wheel center should be Stainless Steel. Plain old steel would most likely absorb some of the magnetism and lower efficiency
STEP 4: The Wheel and Parts :Part 2
The Magnets must be ceramic/ferrite grade 5 or 8 even better and not the more powerful NiB's.
I got these out of an old SCSI drive, they are epoxy coated and most likely grade 8 jobbies. There were 4 in the drive, 2 on top of the platter arm coil and 2 on the bottom.
I measured around the outer diameter and marked off the 4 magnet locations, then traced around the magnet to create a cozy little pocket to super glue them in.
A pic below of medium thick CA glue.
Finally fibre filament tape is wound around the magnets 2 or 3 times to prevent them getting lodged in the ceiling roof stomach...etc
We dont use NiB's because the coil core becomes magnetically saturated thereby losing the plot. Also the larger single curved variety has both north and south pole on the same side...ie useless for our purpose
Pics below of NiB magnet, with shiny nickel coating (the give away)
The Plot being to create very short and sharp voltage spike to draw in additional radiant energy from the local enviroment.
Im not going to describe what radiant energy is, Im very sure Tom Bearden or John Bedini are far better qualified to do that.
link to site here of tom bearden
I got these out of an old SCSI drive, they are epoxy coated and most likely grade 8 jobbies. There were 4 in the drive, 2 on top of the platter arm coil and 2 on the bottom.
I measured around the outer diameter and marked off the 4 magnet locations, then traced around the magnet to create a cozy little pocket to super glue them in.
A pic below of medium thick CA glue.
Finally fibre filament tape is wound around the magnets 2 or 3 times to prevent them getting lodged in the ceiling roof stomach...etc
We dont use NiB's because the coil core becomes magnetically saturated thereby losing the plot. Also the larger single curved variety has both north and south pole on the same side...ie useless for our purpose
Pics below of NiB magnet, with shiny nickel coating (the give away)
The Plot being to create very short and sharp voltage spike to draw in additional radiant energy from the local enviroment.
Im not going to describe what radiant energy is, Im very sure Tom Bearden or John Bedini are far better qualified to do that.
link to site here of tom bearden
STEP 5: The Coil and Parts
The Coil form is roughly 35mm high x 65mm wide. I used pvc cover plates for junction boxes and pvc pipe, drilled a hole in the cover plates to fit the pipe and glued them on with pvc specific glue, CA and microballoons is also good, with the microballoons used as gap filler.
I arrived at the width/thickness of the coil by waving one of the magnets above a paperclip on a table till the magnet affected the clip, and then measured the height between the magnet and table. It was about 25mm, works for me :)
The width is usually about 1.5 x the height .
Not much else to say about the coil form except that I made a slight flat to steady it and screwed it down on a ply base using plain old copper earth strap.
First wrapped insulation tape around the coil to protect the wire from shorting out by the strap.
Ply base was to raise the coil core height to the same level as the magnets.
The coil core is copper covered gas welding rod also known as R60 welding rod. I used plain old automotive shellac on each rod piece to reduce eddy currents in the core (reduces heating effect too )
Others have used galvanised iron tie wire ( building trade ) but the R60 copper covered mild steel is the stuff recommended by the inventor himself.
The magnet wire used is clear coated 0,3 mm, 90 metres long. I then cut them in half and twisted all 6 by 45m pieces together, this is know as Litz Wire or Litzing .
Litzing the wires improves the voltage characteristics a bit BUT !!!
It is not necessary to use Litzed wire
2 strands run next to each other bifilar style will work just as well. It will also save you time and hassle. The reason I litzed the wire was because, no Cyril I do have a life, there were 6 strands and the litz way was neater, a little bonus is the better voltage characteristics.
the pic below is taken from the wheel side with the holes for the wire on the other side
I arrived at the width/thickness of the coil by waving one of the magnets above a paperclip on a table till the magnet affected the clip, and then measured the height between the magnet and table. It was about 25mm, works for me :)
The width is usually about 1.5 x the height .
Not much else to say about the coil form except that I made a slight flat to steady it and screwed it down on a ply base using plain old copper earth strap.
First wrapped insulation tape around the coil to protect the wire from shorting out by the strap.
Ply base was to raise the coil core height to the same level as the magnets.
The coil core is copper covered gas welding rod also known as R60 welding rod. I used plain old automotive shellac on each rod piece to reduce eddy currents in the core (reduces heating effect too )
Others have used galvanised iron tie wire ( building trade ) but the R60 copper covered mild steel is the stuff recommended by the inventor himself.
The magnet wire used is clear coated 0,3 mm, 90 metres long. I then cut them in half and twisted all 6 by 45m pieces together, this is know as Litz Wire or Litzing .
Litzing the wires improves the voltage characteristics a bit BUT !!!
It is not necessary to use Litzed wire
2 strands run next to each other bifilar style will work just as well. It will also save you time and hassle. The reason I litzed the wire was because, no Cyril I do have a life, there were 6 strands and the litz way was neater, a little bonus is the better voltage characteristics.
the pic below is taken from the wheel side with the holes for the wire on the other side
STEP 6: Who's Cyril?
Indeed who is this Cyril ? well......
Just in case the Cyril's of the world are takin an ache, its a figure of speech.
To be exact a figure of speech of local motoring journalist Dave Abrahams'
some examples:
"and followed Route 62 past Ronnie's Sex Shop (no Cyril, it's just a pub with a provocative name)"
from the article FIRST RIDE: Five passes on BMW's new full-dress tourer
or
"the LCD tells you the fuel level, coolant temperature, the time and what gear you're in (no, not your clothes, Cyril!)."
from the article K1200 R - riding BMW's naked wild child
or
You can store waypoints; even select one of hundreds of points of
interest by its phone number .... and no, Cyril, Charlize Theron is not a
point of interest. But if you have her phone number...
from the article Toyota's clean green machine gets a special extra
and I thought it sounded kinda funny....ok ok 3million unemployed and "Im an out of work clown"
anyways, on with the build and perhaps Cyril will make another guest appearance :)
Just in case the Cyril's of the world are takin an ache, its a figure of speech.
To be exact a figure of speech of local motoring journalist Dave Abrahams'
some examples:
"and followed Route 62 past Ronnie's Sex Shop (no Cyril, it's just a pub with a provocative name)"
from the article FIRST RIDE: Five passes on BMW's new full-dress tourer
or
"the LCD tells you the fuel level, coolant temperature, the time and what gear you're in (no, not your clothes, Cyril!)."
from the article K1200 R - riding BMW's naked wild child
or
You can store waypoints; even select one of hundreds of points of
interest by its phone number .... and no, Cyril, Charlize Theron is not a
point of interest. But if you have her phone number...
from the article Toyota's clean green machine gets a special extra
and I thought it sounded kinda funny....ok ok 3million unemployed and "Im an out of work clown"
anyways, on with the build and perhaps Cyril will make another guest appearance :)
STEP 7: Coil Winding and Litz Wire
The coil doesnt have to be machine precise wound, neat will do. However as the song goes..........I did it my way.
This is the backyard way of doing it.... across the freeway there, is an industrial area..very ghetto, like my coil winder :)
the distance to the back wall was 23.9m from inside the garage and I needed 22.5m...very very nice peter, close but nice.
So one of the ends was tied to a garage beam and the other chucked into the drill...no Cyril I didnt throw the wire in, it really is called a chuck .... :)
If you hold the drill perfectly in relation to the wire coming out then no flexing will occur and therefore no breakages,
I didnt want to wait while a rechargeable drill chugged along at 150rpm ...no way, ...2800rpm's 760watts and 3min later the one half was finished. As you twist the wire shortens, so you need to move forward slightly to prevent breakages.
Do the same to the other half and Bob's yer auntie, yer done.
Wires from the bike speedo trigger on the fork are soldered to a plain old calculator on the pcb under the = key, then all you do is press 1+ and its triggered by a magnet on a spoke of the rim and used to count the turns.
Simple math does the circumference on the rim times the number of turns and walla you arrive by the length of said wrapped wire
This is the backyard way of doing it.... across the freeway there, is an industrial area..very ghetto, like my coil winder :)
the distance to the back wall was 23.9m from inside the garage and I needed 22.5m...very very nice peter, close but nice.
So one of the ends was tied to a garage beam and the other chucked into the drill...no Cyril I didnt throw the wire in, it really is called a chuck .... :)
If you hold the drill perfectly in relation to the wire coming out then no flexing will occur and therefore no breakages,
I didnt want to wait while a rechargeable drill chugged along at 150rpm ...no way, ...2800rpm's 760watts and 3min later the one half was finished. As you twist the wire shortens, so you need to move forward slightly to prevent breakages.
Do the same to the other half and Bob's yer auntie, yer done.
Wires from the bike speedo trigger on the fork are soldered to a plain old calculator on the pcb under the = key, then all you do is press 1+ and its triggered by a magnet on a spoke of the rim and used to count the turns.
Simple math does the circumference on the rim times the number of turns and walla you arrive by the length of said wrapped wire
STEP 8: The Electronics
The Electronics are really simple, keep the wiring short as possible, solder components to each other, no vero board or pcb.
I used 3 1N4007 diodes 1amp 1000v
1 12 ohm 5watt resistor (cos it worked and I had plenty )
1 TO3 style 2N3055 high power NPN transistor
1 wire wound variable pot 1K ohm (standard carbon track pots last about 1 hour )
1 12V dc 3 or 4 watt auto bulb ( auto as in car )
1 standard 95v neon bulb ( better get a few, they protect the collector emitter junction of the transistor )
connection blocks as needed
I first had 3 strands for trigger and 3 for power driving, however I measured the current flowing in the trigger cct and it was 'bout 10-15 milliamps, 0.3mm is good for 200ma, so I configured it as 1 trigger and 5 power. Now revs are up and charging current is up as well at about 500-600 ma.
The trick to getting everything working right is impedance matching, which means that unless your trigger coil is 13,4 ohms and power coil 3.7 ohms then you might need to swop component values till things work right. If your wire length is shorter than 45m you might need a bigger base resistor, the cct diag from the Bedini_monopole3 forum had a 100 ohms base resistor.
The carbon track variable pots dont hold up for very long, especially when twiddling with the pot, some folk have reported spikes up to 400V.
While I was tweaking in the beginning I saw some very bright light and crackling noise coming out from the 1K pot, looked like arc welding, it wrecked it so I guess thats essentially what it was.
Its really cool to pull the batt charge leads off to make it open circuit and watch tiny ball lightning hopping around in the neon bulb, however they dont last very long so at least have a camera ready :)
not much else to say here 'cept join it up as in the cct diagram in step 1
I used 3 1N4007 diodes 1amp 1000v
1 12 ohm 5watt resistor (cos it worked and I had plenty )
1 TO3 style 2N3055 high power NPN transistor
1 wire wound variable pot 1K ohm (standard carbon track pots last about 1 hour )
1 12V dc 3 or 4 watt auto bulb ( auto as in car )
1 standard 95v neon bulb ( better get a few, they protect the collector emitter junction of the transistor )
connection blocks as needed
I first had 3 strands for trigger and 3 for power driving, however I measured the current flowing in the trigger cct and it was 'bout 10-15 milliamps, 0.3mm is good for 200ma, so I configured it as 1 trigger and 5 power. Now revs are up and charging current is up as well at about 500-600 ma.
The trick to getting everything working right is impedance matching, which means that unless your trigger coil is 13,4 ohms and power coil 3.7 ohms then you might need to swop component values till things work right. If your wire length is shorter than 45m you might need a bigger base resistor, the cct diag from the Bedini_monopole3 forum had a 100 ohms base resistor.
The carbon track variable pots dont hold up for very long, especially when twiddling with the pot, some folk have reported spikes up to 400V.
While I was tweaking in the beginning I saw some very bright light and crackling noise coming out from the 1K pot, looked like arc welding, it wrecked it so I guess thats essentially what it was.
Its really cool to pull the batt charge leads off to make it open circuit and watch tiny ball lightning hopping around in the neon bulb, however they dont last very long so at least have a camera ready :)
not much else to say here 'cept join it up as in the cct diagram in step 1
STEP 9: Tuning and Timing
To Tune the Device ..I use a 4-5mm gap between the magnet and coil core, any closer than 3mm and the cogging can add a lot of noise without adding performance. As said previously the bearings must be really free running.
In practice the best performance is highest revs with lowest current draw, in my setup usually within the 1st quarter turn of the pot and thats at 12V, other voltages may work with different resistance and coil gaps.
Timing involves connecting 330ohm resistor in series with a led to the charging coil output and lighting up the wheel, after sticking on a strip at each magnet. Its only for pondering really and not necessary to get the circuit working. You will observe the magnet is already past the core when the led is pulsed, this pulse possibly is the one charging the batteries.
Lastly the wheel is not self-starting, a gentle flick with the finger does the trick.
In practice the best performance is highest revs with lowest current draw, in my setup usually within the 1st quarter turn of the pot and thats at 12V, other voltages may work with different resistance and coil gaps.
Timing involves connecting 330ohm resistor in series with a led to the charging coil output and lighting up the wheel, after sticking on a strip at each magnet. Its only for pondering really and not necessary to get the circuit working. You will observe the magnet is already past the core when the led is pulsed, this pulse possibly is the one charging the batteries.
Lastly the wheel is not self-starting, a gentle flick with the finger does the trick.
STEP 10: Odds 'n' the End
a bottom view, with 3 rubber feet for vibration, not that theres much anyway.
My device works well in the 8V- 18V dc range, at 12v its turning at +- 2300 rpm's and is fairly quiet.
This level of the Bedini monopole charger could be termed Learning to Crawl.
It can charge 4 batteries with 1 battery driving the circuit, and in other more advanced versions using timing circuits ( not a timing light ) a pulse can be sent to the driving battery to charge it in between the drive pulses to the coil.
It would compose of a change-over switch NC (norm closed) on the drive circuit which briefly flicks over to disconnect the batt from the drive coil and connect it to a seperate generator coil.
In practise the additional gen coil has to be out of phase with the drive coil. Say the drive coil is at 0deg then the gen coil would be positioned at either 135deg or 225deg.
In other words the circuit can charge itself... kinda sweet huh!...but dont take my word for it, rather look for yourself here :)
Update 01/04/2008
I have now connected a variable power supply because it has a built-in amp/volt meter, this enables me to watch the current draw while increasing the resistance of the 1K pot.
When the resistance is increased the current draw goes down till a point can be found where increasing the resistance further causes the current to jump back up again. This is termed the sweet spot and something which I have read about in the forums.
Now when running in the sweet spot and you put a load on the wheel the current will be seen to decrease till the slowing of the rpm's causes the wheel rotation to fall outside the "sweet spot", whereupon the current draw jumps back up to its former state.
I lightly just touched my finger under the wheel to create the drag but some kind of fan would be better. The next question will be finding the correct size blade of fan to not overdo things and yet load the wheel sufficiently.
Some approximate numbers are: startup =300mA sweet spot= 210mA and loaded sweet spot=180mA.
Now the less current that I need to put into this device, the greater COP will become because my 12V 7A/h batteries are still being charged, but now by progressively less input.
I dont have any motors DC or AC that exhibit this sort of characteristic where you load the shaft and current draw goes down...something else to ponder.
Something else is that when you charge a capacitor with a 12V batt all you get is 12V on the cap however, when you use the same 12V batt to power the bedini device and then charge the cap, said cap is charged to its max in a very short time. It took 30seconds to charge my 9800MFD 40V DC electrolytic cap to 55V. If you decide to discharge this cap without a resistor then you most likely will need hearing and eye protection, its very loud indeed.
Some video of a fairly silent run, at 6 seconds a ball collision inside the bearing can be heard, sounds like rough grinding.
A rather blurred version of what happens when the charge leads are pulled off the battery
My device works well in the 8V- 18V dc range, at 12v its turning at +- 2300 rpm's and is fairly quiet.
This level of the Bedini monopole charger could be termed Learning to Crawl.
It can charge 4 batteries with 1 battery driving the circuit, and in other more advanced versions using timing circuits ( not a timing light ) a pulse can be sent to the driving battery to charge it in between the drive pulses to the coil.
It would compose of a change-over switch NC (norm closed) on the drive circuit which briefly flicks over to disconnect the batt from the drive coil and connect it to a seperate generator coil.
In practise the additional gen coil has to be out of phase with the drive coil. Say the drive coil is at 0deg then the gen coil would be positioned at either 135deg or 225deg.
In other words the circuit can charge itself... kinda sweet huh!...but dont take my word for it, rather look for yourself here :)
Update 01/04/2008
I have now connected a variable power supply because it has a built-in amp/volt meter, this enables me to watch the current draw while increasing the resistance of the 1K pot.
When the resistance is increased the current draw goes down till a point can be found where increasing the resistance further causes the current to jump back up again. This is termed the sweet spot and something which I have read about in the forums.
Now when running in the sweet spot and you put a load on the wheel the current will be seen to decrease till the slowing of the rpm's causes the wheel rotation to fall outside the "sweet spot", whereupon the current draw jumps back up to its former state.
I lightly just touched my finger under the wheel to create the drag but some kind of fan would be better. The next question will be finding the correct size blade of fan to not overdo things and yet load the wheel sufficiently.
Some approximate numbers are: startup =300mA sweet spot= 210mA and loaded sweet spot=180mA.
Now the less current that I need to put into this device, the greater COP will become because my 12V 7A/h batteries are still being charged, but now by progressively less input.
I dont have any motors DC or AC that exhibit this sort of characteristic where you load the shaft and current draw goes down...something else to ponder.
Something else is that when you charge a capacitor with a 12V batt all you get is 12V on the cap however, when you use the same 12V batt to power the bedini device and then charge the cap, said cap is charged to its max in a very short time. It took 30seconds to charge my 9800MFD 40V DC electrolytic cap to 55V. If you decide to discharge this cap without a resistor then you most likely will need hearing and eye protection, its very loud indeed.
Some video of a fairly silent run, at 6 seconds a ball collision inside the bearing can be heard, sounds like rough grinding.
A rather blurred version of what happens when the charge leads are pulled off the battery
140 Comments
Tomr2 2 months ago
If you took two 12 volt SLA batteries of the same make and capacity, one fully charged and one not, could you use the charged battery to charge the discharged one with this device so that the voltage decrease in the one would be less than the voltage increase in the other?
AntletherF 2 years ago
1_64phiGUY 8 years ago
parsifaldruddle 9 years ago
Never waste time arguing anything with free energy folks or trying to educate their bleating followers - it is better to let them waste their time, money and energy deluding themselves and others. It keeps them fairly harmless - and out of the way of serious folks. They do have the right to be wrong, to be half-educated, and ignorant of the real nature of things and to believe in fairy-science. They want Bedinis, they need Bedinis, and they have, truly, earned Bedinis. Smile at them, wish them well, and leave them alone - they are happy =)
kkonzsaki 8 years ago
Heavier than air objects will never be able to fly, why waste your time. If God wanted humans to fly he would have given us wings!!!
Remember that argument given by the top physics of the day......
Or how about this one. Look at that mad moon gunner playing with Chinese firing crackers, rambling on about one day man will use these "rockets" to send man to the moon. What a crock pot.....
No human will ever be able to withstand the extreme forces above 25 mph! It is a waste of time to try to build high speed locomotives...Argued engineers and physics during the turn of the century.
There is not enough energy in a atom to build this insane "atomic" bomb, it will never work..... then came the Manhattan project which proved the world wrong.
In 1911 the head of the patent office proposed to congress that the patent office be closed down. His argument was that everything that could ever be made has been made, and that there is no future need for the patent office.
The only way that new physics emerges is when the old physics that violently and bitterly opposed it have died off. Remember that for some food for thought.
markusfisher 8 years ago
Well we can be as nice as the last guy. I wonder why this guy feels he has the need to try to be-little a guy who is a patent holder? I bet this "parsifaldruddle" character might have a shot at holding a patent for a new device for being home alone on a saturday night. I can't say that I'm an electronics expert but this device looks interesting enough to give it a try. But thanks just the same Mr. parsifaldruddle for giving us a take on the way you think everything works.
parsifaldruddle 8 years ago
Invest heavily, even when progress seems slow...
DanielI31 8 years ago
what?! Dude are you even a scientist or do you have a truly scientific mind, CLEARLY you don't have a financially wise one, because any fool knows that if you perceive something that is workable or that when growing a business that just because you know it will take time, even months or years, that doesn't mean it's not worth making a heavy investment in. Like the Bible, God's word says, it takes a long time to sprout seeds before they turn into some edible crops, but that doesn't mean it's not worth working the soil and being patient over for the months it will take, same with those who grow marijuana, a community filled with fools. What's wrong with you? Do you really lack common sense, are you insane?
DanielI31 8 years ago
what?! Dude are you even a scientist or do you have a truly scientific mind, CLEARLY you don't have a financially wise one, because any fool knows that if you perceive something that is workable or that when growing a business that just because you know it will take time, even months or years, that doesn't mean it's not worth making a heavy investment in. Like the Bible, God's word says, it takes a long time to sprout seeds before they turn into some edible crops, but that doesn't mean it's not worth working the soil and being patient over for the months it will take, same with those who grow marijuana, a community filled with fools. What's wrong with you? Do you really lack common sense, are you insane?
DanielI31 8 years ago
"a patent for a new device for being home alone on a saturday night"
LOL, I don't laugh much without some deep sadness or annoyance since usually I'm chatting with one of the drug addicted psychopaths here in Vegas that infest the place, and I find most shows and movies stupid, unbelievable, annoying and bland, but, here, I award you the Daniel Knight Award For the Funniest Joke In The Universe. I don't think I'll forget that statement hah.
DanielI31 8 years ago
Are you going to sue me if I use this comment in a for-profit movie and don't give you any royalties?
casstete 8 years ago
just building the kromrey device is fairly simple if one follows johns advice . . as 2-3 did pn youtube .
so bugger off
parsifaldruddle 8 years ago
You guys are going into production with this gem, yes? It IS the answer to our energy needs and as such, priceless, no? I'm sure you will all be ramping up production any day now and rolling in the cash! Best wishes and remember to save for your retirement!
CoyY 8 years ago
CoyY 8 years ago
PatrykF 8 years ago
So this needs a screening for safety. I've never saw screened bedini motor with thick glass or anything.
Johnbedini 9 years ago
An answer to some question about the Bedini SSG motor.
One must understand the theory of what the device attempts to perform.
The first thing we all must understand is the term Free Energy since everyone
building these device thinks it’s some kind of magical machine in a way it is
as it does some things that are not found in the common text.What you have built here is an Energizer,
Energizers perform two things, Motor functions and generator functions all
within the same machine. The Motor function is not designed to be self-starting
because it must set on the primary battery for use without any input current
until it starts. The motor section must be pulsed to draw very little current
you must think of this as someone on a swing where you only give a little tap
to keep them swinging and then they go over the top, so it take very little
energy. The second stage is a generator functions without any Lenz effect or
very little, meaning no counter EMF force. We are dealing with two different
types of energy the machine is
outputting.The Motor section uses
electrons or real current from the battery and the second uses or generates no
real current with electrons.You can
prove it by using a .5 ohm resistor across the output in place of the secondary
battery.Since your meter cannot measure
this because of the spikes you must convert it so that you can measure it the
capacitor is the answer because it can convert the spikes into real usable
power that uses electrons so normal circuits may be powered.
The most important part of the machine is the mechanical energy that
people do not use. That energy is around 23 to 40% so that must be added into
your figure when figuring the efficiency of the machine.If you notice by placing a load on the mechanical
output the current on the primary side will go down since we have no closed
flux path like a normal motor. Work performed under load without an increase in
input current means efficiency, conservation of energy.All energy changes form at some point and is
never lost you just must figure a way to use what it was converted to.Others have made the error of saying that the
COP of 10 to 1, not true as I only look for a COP of 1 or a 100% percent
conversion factor In the chemical reaction (The Battery}.
Radiant energy can be anything
it just does not apply to heat as the universe is filled with it in many
forms.If you have one battery and can
charge it with that change in energy why not add more batteries to the output
that is where the 10 to 1 comes from, and yes it is possible to do that since
you’re not dealing with normal electron current or very little. So how do we
get real power from the machine?What
you have built here is a repulsive motor function meaning the magnet is being
kicked out, that takes power and you will lose some energy doing that so let’s
think along different lines like re-gauging the motor coil function.
Let me say something here now about magnets do not use Neo magnets as
it will change the function of the Energizer and you will lose power output you
must keep from saturating the core material which must not retain its
Magnetism that is why the use of welding
rod.Bolts do not work well for this
machine or ferrite cores. The Coil must be done very carefully and with the
correct amount of turn’s number 21 wires along with a number 23 for the
trigger, wires wound together for your experiment.The next thing is the base resistor which
must be chosen for the least amount of current 470 ohms would be the starting
point with a 22 Ohm pot for fine adjustment.If you free up the base current the machine will speed up for the most
generated spiked currentless output. The coil acts like a varying electromagnet
where the Bloch wall moves to act as an energy pump so energy is sucked in and
compressed to give the high voltage which is a gain function of the inverted
amplifier circuit since we use the collector circuit and not the emitter of the
device. Back EMF does not apply to this circuit as Back EMF is always lower
than the battery voltage. Keep the current out of the circuit and the Radiant
high voltage will gain in potential.If
you apply a potential to batteries they will try to move up in voltage and they
do that as the Ions gain charge and start to move to the next plate in the
battery. You want to move them without work and this machine does that by
building charge on the Ions in the battery, works like a sail boat but without
the electrical wind of the machine nothing moves. The high potential causes
this to happen, plain physics; the idea is the use of currentless energy, just
potential charge.
Ok, back to how to get the power, first flip the coil so the machine
runs in attraction instead of repulsion, why? Because you do not want to do any
work or waste energy pushing the wheel you want the wheel to be sucked in for
free and have the coil re-gauge the energy for nothing.Next you need to apply a Beta multiplier
filter circuit to the output of the diode that is zener controlled to no more
than 30 volts that is going to filter all the spikes before they go to the
capacitor of your choice, I would use between 4700 to 10000 uf at 75 volts for
this. Next choose some type of linear regulator like a LM7805, 5 volts is the
output this would give the proper current for charging your cell phone battery
and will limit at 5 volts, the battery will do the rest.You cannot have any spikes on lithium
batteries, lead acid does not care be very careful with alkaline batteries. Now
think all you do is multiply the coils and the simple circuit for bigger
batteries and your off and running.No
free energy here just gathering all the normally wasted energy in a circuit and
using a conversion method to gain energy to power normal loads.Again the term free energy is an energy that
cannot be measured with normal meters so people think they discovered
something. We must pay for everything we do so why not just try to get as close
to a COP of 1 as we can. People love the term free energy so the unexplained is
classified and this calls out all the skeptics who believe the world is flat
anyway so why argue with any of them since they know everything.Just build the machine and discover science
for yourself since there is no absolutes’ in science anyway. We really know
nothing only what we have been taught but we really know nothing except what we
can prove. Nature is full of hidden secrets yet to be discovered.
You can find more advanced circuits by me and books and videos along
with Tom Bearden’s work on the internet if you search you may even find a
linear circuit people have made. The knowledge is out there you just need to
look. And do not believe everything you read.
THE MACHINE IS LIMITED
I’m not allowed to say anymore
then this except some of the SSG machines have been taken away from people. I’m
not going to go into the reasons but if you discover anything over the figures
I have stated here then it is considered a national security risk, and we all
know what that means.My patent is very
limited and only has the claims the big boys would allow. Right now you have a
few people discouraging your work on this project you can tell by the comments.
This is why you do not want to argue with the skeptics as they will try and
tell you to just use normal things and do not look outside of the box for any
answers.Again your free to experiment
with any of the circuits that were posted on the internet.
Nature is very simple in the way she acts and is very tricky in her
secrets.
John B
casstete 8 years ago
i descided 2 go for karpen pile (battery)
but due to my technical limitations i thought of a captret circuit + eartbattery . .
Tom bearden is the search engine of universal potential where little is left to imagination .
And yourself and many others have benefited from his insight and you paid him back by building and showing your work .
God bless
fidelc1 9 years ago
goldenshuttle 8 years ago
is it possible to make a bigger version of this motor, and install it inside an electric car, then leave it running say always..then it should charge a group of batteries , say 10 batteries x 12 volts each ....is this possible ? if yes then you have zero fuel, self charging car..or not ?