Changing a Bicycle Tube

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Intro: Changing a Bicycle Tube

 An easy way to change your bicycle tube.

STEP 1: First Things First

Loosen axle bolts. To make it easy to get the chain off, push the wheel all the way forward.

STEP 2: Getting the Chain Off

With your left hand, push the chain to the inside of the bike. While pushing the chain, rotate the cranks with your right hang. If you have done it correctly, your chain should rest on the the inside of the sprocket.

STEP 3: A Helpful Hint

Now that you have popped the chain off the sprocket, pull the wheel towards you. Make sure the wheel is out of the drop out to remove the chain. Remove the chain from the cog and place it in the drop out to help keep the chain from knotting up.

STEP 4: The Tire and the Rim

Always a problem here. The best way to get the tire off is to insert tire levers under the bead of the tire at 12 and 1 o'clock. Apply pressure to pull the tire's bead out. Once you have started, follow in a circular motion around the rim until the beat is out around the whole rim.

STEP 5: The Old Tube

At this point, press the valve stem up into the tire and pull the old tube out.

STEP 6: The New Tube

Place the new tube in the tire. Make sure to line up the valve stem in the valve stem hole on the rim first, before putting the rest of the tube in the tire.

STEP 7: Putting the Tire Back On

Probably the hardest part of the whole process. In a circular motion, rotate your wrist away from you, pressing the bead of the tire inside the rim. If you need help you can use the tire levers for leverage.

STEP 8: Its Down Hill From Here!

Now you are basically putting everything back into place. Put the chain on the cog and slide the wheel into the dropouts.

STEP 9: The Chain

This can be scary, but don't worry it will be okay! To get the chain back on, you have to put the chain on the top of the sprocket and quickly rotate the cranks with your opposite hand.

STEP 10: Tightening Up!

Once you have the chain on, you must pull the wheel back and tighten the axle bolts. Make sure there is enough tension so the chain will not keep popping off.

STEP 11: Pumping It Up!

 Now that everything is dialed in, you only need to pump the right amount of PSI (pounds per square inch) into the tire. To find this information out look on the side of the tire. After you are done, go have some fun!

10 Comments

I can never figure out how to prevent flat spots and eggs in my tyre (OK< I'm Australian, we spell stuff funny)

Maybe it's my rims? Any ideas how to get the bead settled in perfectly would be tops!

Ta,

W
Nothing great, if you have a proper tool and it's just matter of efforts.
the same principal even one can apply for 2 wheelers and four wheelers.

- Be careful with the tire leavers not to damage the tube.
- Hold on to the levers otherwise the may spring lose and knock your eye out.
- Start opposite of the valve when removing the tube (and end there when you're putting it back on)
- Check the inside of the outside tire for damage (and pointy stuff like protruding wire or glass) 

Also, you can actually (at least I have) change the tire without removing the wheel by slightly bending the frame (it's really a two men job, but on some bikes it is very hard to remove a wheel completely), or use a frame extender. That way you can even leave the chain on (you'll have to remove the tire to the other side of the wheel)). It's crude but effective and sometimes necessary (like with my 10 year old all rusted solid kick-brake bike)
 that's a stout little bike. You ride bmx?
 yea i do.i also work at a bmx bike shop.
Well done, but I would air up the tire before putting it back on the bike...just in case.
 Pretty good instructions. Only thing I wouldn't recommend is using the tire levers as leverage to mount the tire, as it is very easy to get a pinch flat (when the inner tube gets pinched between the rim and tire bead) using that method. The best way, as you said, is to simply use you hand to push the bead onto the rim and work your way around. Even though the first few times it can be hard, it gets easier over time.
Looks good, photos are really helpful. Just a couple of extra thoughts:
keep fingers out of chains to avoid pinchy situations. A prodding stick can be used (I know, safety rubbish but I bet someone'll hurt themselves and sue :)
If you don't have tyre levers then your mums best spoon handles make a good improvisation.
Finally, I don't know if its just cos I run knobbly tyres but even when deflated I would struggle to get them over the brakes. I'm surprised you didn't include a "disconnect rear brake" step.
Why did this get featured? There have been plenty of other ones with the same quality. No offense, just wondering why it didn't happen earlier
Well done, but PSI stands for pounds per square inch.