Charred Mirror




Introduction: Charred Mirror

About: I like to make stuff for my home and garden from wood and metal..

The entrance hall of my house has been looking a bit bare since I moved into my house two years ago. I guess it was just a place where I didn’t spend any time decorating. So now that I had some time it was time to do something about it! The area is not too big so a mirror is a great way to make a small area appear bigger.

I have done a few more projects for my hall way you can see them here:

Hall Table

-Steel tree- tea light stand

Metal Flowers - lily-

Copper daffodils

Step 1: Check Out the Video.

Have a look at the video above to see how I built this Charred Mirror or follow the instructions below.

Here is a list of the items needed for the build.

Materials need:


2 Pieces approximately 517 mm x 132 mm x 32 mm

2 Pieces approximately 1032 mm x 132 mm x32 mm


Wooden dowels


Silicone to stick the mirror

Wire for hanging



jig saw


Measuring tape


Wood glue


Marking gauge or dowel jig

Drill bit

Blow torch


Paint brush


Step 2: Cutting.

To begin I marked the top and bottom pieces along with the two sides onto the wood. I then used my chop saw to cut them but you could use a hand saw if you don’t have a chop saw. Just be sure to keep the cuts square and use a fine toothed saw for a cleaner cut.

Step 3: Lay in Position.

After they were cut I laid them on a flat surface and placed them into position. Notice how they are positioned, they are staggered.

Step 4: Label the Pieces.

I then set about labeling each corner so it would be easy to place everything back together.

Step 5: Marking for Dowels.

I decided to use dowels for the joint as they are pretty quick and easy to do while also giving a strong joint. I marked the position of the dowels on each of the intersections with a pencil.

Step 6: Marking for Dowels.

Using a square I transferred all the lines to the side of the wood.

Step 7: Marking for Dowels.

I set a marking gauge to half the thickness of the wood and marked the center of where all the dowels were to be drilled. I highlighted all the marks with a pencil.

Step 8: Drilling the Holes.

I used some tape to mark half the depth of the wooden dowel on the drill bit and set about drilling all the holes for the dowels. You could use a doweling jig for this but I don’t have one.

Step 9: Gluing.

When all the holes were drilled I put some wood glue into the holes and tapped in the dowels with a hammer. I then applied more glue to the rest of the joint and pushed all the joint s together.

Step 10: Clamping.

I put clamps on to pull everything together while the glue cured. Using a measuring tape I measured the diagonals to make sure it was all square. Wipe off any excess glue.

Step 11: Setting Out the Curves.

To set out the curves I used an old flexible curtain rail. I clamped on scrap pieces of wood to hold the rail in place while I marked it. This took a bit of trial and error until I was happy with the shape. Only mark one side and either the top or bottom.

Check out my YouTube channel if you would like to see more projects from me: Eamon Walsh DIY

Step 12: Rebating the Frame.

Before I started cutting out the shape of the mirror I turned the frame upside down to rebate the back to accept the mirror. It’s easier to do this now as you have the full width of the wood whereas if you did it after the router may rock on the narrow pieces.

Step 13: Cutting the Curves.

After the rebate was done I flipped the frame back over and clamped it to the table and started cutting with my jig saw. I used the off cut to mark the curve on the opposite side. This saves having to set up marking the curve twice and also gives you a mirror image of the curve.

Step 14: Rounding Over the Edges.

After all was cut I rounded over all the face edges with a router and round over bit and then gave everything a quick sanding.

Step 15: Squaring Up the Rebated Corners.

Before starting to torch or char the wood I squared up the corners of the rebate where the router could not remove. I used a chisel to do this on the four corners.

Step 16: Charring the Wood.

I set the frame up on some scrap pieces of wood and torched, scorched and charred the wood. I did it to the way I like it but you can go either lighter or heaver with the torch depending on your taste.

Step 17: Finishing.

I gave everything a light sanding and then rubbed the whole thing with a cloth and white spirits to remove the rest of the dust. I applied 3 coats of a varnish with a light sanding before the last coat.

Step 18: Fitting the Mirror.

To attach the mirror, which I got cut to size from my local glass supplier, I applied some clear silicone to the rebate and then carefully placed the mirror into place. I applied a little pressure to make sure it was bedded into the silicone and left it to cure.

Step 19: Wall Fitting.

To attach it to the wall I used some wire which I fitted to the back of the frame.

Step 20: The Mirror Hanging

And there it is. I have placed it just inside my front door. It has really transformed my entrance hall which was a bit plain and bare looking before the mirror went in. It also gives you one last chance to hair and makeup before you leave the house!

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    Moats Custom Woodworking
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    Tip 4 years ago

    Perhaps, but the bandsaw would make the work go much faster and would be more efficient, if your were making them for mass production.

    Moats Custom Woodworking
    Moats Custom Woodworking

    Tip 4 years ago

    Or if you have a bandsaw, cut the pieces before gluing, and it would go faster.


    Reply 4 years ago

    I don't have a band saw and I don't agree that cutting it first would make it faster. In fact I think it would make it more difficult to do.


    4 years ago

    Looks great!