Cheap Braille Embosser (La Picoreuse)
Intro: Cheap Braille Embosser (La Picoreuse)
"La Picoreuse" is a cheap (75€), easy to build A4 braille embosser.
This project aims to serve as a first step or a basis for reflection for other makers in order to provide an alternative to very expensive market embossers (3000€)
The idea of this project is borned to respond to the needs of the ParACheval association
The cutting and soldering part could be realized thanks to fablab-sud31 (Cintegabelle)
SourcesOpenSCAD Sketch and DXF files: thingiverse
All source files: github
STEP 1: Presentation
STEP 2: Components (≈ 75€)
Frame
- MDF - 479*302*6mm (5€)
- MDF - 224*204*3mm (3€)
- Piece of Bicycle inner tube
- 2x Old printer metal rod Ø6mm
- 1x Old printer metal rod Ø8mm
- 1x bronze ring - BNZ8-10-6 (1.5€)
- 3x bronze ring - BNZ6-8-8 (5€)
- 5x Nylon cable tie (0,5€)
Motors
- 2x Nema17 steppers (20€)
- Pulley / Belt - GT2 20 (4€)
- Connection Ø5mm to Ø8mm - Ø14mm extern diameter (2.5€)
- End-of-travel switch (0.5€)
- Solenoid 30 x 15 x 13mm (2.5€)
Electronic
- Arduino Uno (10€)
- Motor shield (type Adafruit Motor shield V1) (9€)
- TIP120 NPN (0.5€)
- 1N4004 400V 1A Axial Lead Silicone diodes (0.05€)
- Resistor 2.2kom (0.05€)
- 12v transformator (10€)
- 12v jack femmal connector (0,5€)
STEP 3: Prepare Boards
Download the 2 files and cut them using laser cutter (cnc may broke some of the small parts)
Indicative laser cutter settings (100W laser cutter)
- for 6mm MDF: 13m/s at 80% power
- for 3mm MDF: 30m/s at 80% power
If you are looking for up-to-date files or if you need to adapt them to a particular purpose, you could download OpenScad sources here
STEP 4: Prepare Board
Sand the boards G and E and fix 5mm bolt to E board (could be done later)
G is sanded to avoid blocking the paper
E is sanded to avoid blocking solenoid wires
STEP 5: Adjust the Belt Length
Block one of the ends of the belt with a nylon cable tie (make sure to put the head of the collar in the plane of the belt)
Follow the path indicated on the picture attached to the belt (put 2 nuts on the big axis to be sure to have the right dimension)
Attach the second end with a nylon cable tie
STEP 6: Assemble Solenoid Support
Attach belt connexion bold on each side of the solenoid.
Attach bronze ring with nylon cable tie.
Attach Solenoid with bolt. Be carrefull, if the bolt is too long it may cramp the solenoid moves a bit. If so add some rings to reduce the thread length
If the belt is already at the correct length you could add it at this step.
STEP 7: Assemble Main Frame
Screw the Arduino card to the board H
Embed boards F, G and H in board B
Embed board C
Slide board F so that it blocks both sides
STEP 8: Leaf Drive System
Nest the leaf drive system
Notice: If your leaf drive system is not the same size, you may have to adapt board G in OpenScad sketch (here)
STEP 9: Damping Rubber
Insert the damping rubber of the punching system. To increase rigidity it could be useful to glue last layers of rubbers togethers.
STEP 10: Connectors
Add 12v connector on C board
End-of-travel switchAdd end-of-travel switch to C board. To build a more secure machine, it is also possible to add an other switch to B board.
Notice: in the video it is added to B board because it is another version of the machine
STEP 11: Buid X Axis
Add D board on right side.
Slide the 6mm metal bars starting with the bottom one.
STEP 12: Install Belt
Install the strap and make it protrude into the notches on each side
STEP 13: Electronic
Connect wires as shown in the shema.
It may be useful to use pluggable connectors for solenoid and end-of-travel switch.
STEP 14: Add Electronic
Plug motor shield to Arduino board
Pass Y motor wires throw C and D boards holes (the X motor wires must stay in)
Add solenoid control part
Screw the power wire (motor shield and solenoid control part togethers)
STEP 15: Finish Frame Assembly
Insert board I on the back (the one with holes)
Embed board A on the left side
Slot board E without forcing. If it stucks, make sure to run the Y motor wires at the back of the board E, to achieve this, just pull the wires a bit up from the inside of the electronics part.
STEP 16: Mount X Stepper Motor
Mount the X stepper motor sideways to include the belt
To hide wires, the connector must be embedded in board A
Connect wires from the inside once the engine is in place.
STEP 17: Mount Y Stepper Motor
Insert the bronze ring on B board
Insert 8mm metal rod
Add 8mm to 5mm connector
Add Y stepper motor
Tighten stepper and connector screws
STEP 18: Load Arduino Sketch
STEP 19: Run the Braille Printer!
- Connect USB to PC
- Plug 12v power supply
- Insert a A4 sheet (160g should be good)
- Open Arduino Serial Monitor and type
{ abcdefghij# klmnopqrst#uvwxyz
- { : initialisation
- # : start a new line (because, on serial tool, return validate sending instead of including newline char)
- a..z : char convert to 6 dot braille
Rq1: The syntax should be updated in future version to include configuration
Rq2: This is a old video version (TODO: update it)
24 Comments
cbsdthiagobnicole 8 months ago
basstone40 2 years ago
I am very much interested to make this Braille printer for one of blind school in my region. can some one help me on the parts list since the links here are not available anymore! i need more info on the parts list.
Thank you so much!
georgeluis2996 2 years ago
hussienfathysroor 3 years ago
alanoud.ali.aldarmaki 4 years ago
Thank you
1609531012 4 years ago
gabrielg133 4 years ago
greetings from Argentina
gabrielg133 4 years ago
iapafoto 4 years ago
Dots of braille symbol are coded as this :
1 8
2 16
4 32
exemple:
1 x 1 x 1 8
x x 2 x x x
x x x x x x
A is 1, B is 1+2 = 3, C is 1+8 = 9
fullAsciiToBraille differ from fullAsciiToBrailleAntoine on the way number are coded
gabrielg133 4 years ago
thank you so much!
iapafoto 4 years ago
The end of travel is connected to the servo motor pins on "Adafruit Motor shield" as indicated in picture at step13. I gess it correspond to pin 10 and ground in Arduino shield.
Notice that for my Picoreuse, I put the end connector to left side but this is quite stupid so I modified the laser cut to unable others builders to put it on the right side or on both sides. However the Arduino code is still for left side so you may have to change it to feet your case.
If you want to use both side end of travels, you may use Pin 9 and ground for the new one (and change the Arduino code to use it).
SalatielS 4 years ago
I've built one of those but I have a problem. The "y" motor does not move correctly, the steps are very short, so, the paper doesn´t move. Which parameter do I have to change to make big stepps?
TY!
iapafoto 4 years ago
Line 47 of BraillePrinter.ino :
double MOTOR_SCALE_Y = 8; // step to mm
But this is quite strange
SalatielS 4 years ago
The problem was the L293D shield, it was factory damaged and couldn't controll the motor well. I decided to change that shield and after that It worked perfectly and I didn't needed to change any parameter.
Thanks for answering my question.
I attach a picture.
The text written is: "prueba".
r4fa3l.mendes508 4 years ago
iapafoto 4 years ago
testSolenoid.ino available in
(int PIN_SOLENOID = 2; in the file)
https://github.com/iapafoto/BraillePrinter/tree/ma...
iapafoto 4 years ago
IvanokM 5 years ago
iapafoto 5 years ago
But in the one I built I only use one (on the left side, which is a bit stupid). I have corrected the design but not sure for the Arduino sketch. I could help you correct it if you need.
IvanokM 5 years ago