Cutting Fluid System for Drill Press



Introduction: Cutting Fluid System for Drill Press

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This instructable finishes my earlier made instructable " Drilling station ".

But same method can be used with mill, or lathe too.

Its a cutting fluid system for a drill press. Made from stainless 316 steel and 3D printed parts.

Welds are made with tig. For printing i used Tevo Tornado 3D printer.

And Dremel 3D40 (for smaller parts) It was faster to print with both at the same time.

Designs for the 3D prints you can find:

Plug for the fillport.

Top with fittings.

Cable clamp nut.

Clamps and filter.

This instructable skips metal working parts, because i have used exactly same methods earlier.

Those instructables can be found here:

Stainless spotlight.

Simple steel drawers with tig.

So, i don't see a reason to explain same things over and over.

Video shows the use.

As a pump i used Eheim Aquarium pump.

Step 1: Metal Parts...

Pan is made from 1.5mm thick sheet. Curve in the pan is bend from 3mm sheet.

After bending the curve, i traced outlines of it to the pan and fitted it on its place.

For cutting i used angle grinder, finished the shape with rotary tool.

Bends are made using my Diy sheet metal bending brake.

Fluid container is made from 3mm sheet. I made two U- shaped curves and weld parts together.

To get larger radius for the curves, i made several <5 degree bends with 5mm interval, i set radius on my bending brake to the largest possible. (22mm) so, it doesn't leave marks. Before welding i removed all scratches from bending with random orbital sander.

Welds are made with tig and 2mm additive, current 50A for thinner parts, 75A for thicker, using somewhat fast traveling speed.

Step 2: Filters and Clamps..

Filters and clamps are 3D printed.

Prints are made with 5 layer edge line thickness and 80% fill. So, those are somewhat solid, and very strong.

Pan is connected to the clamp with M5 inserts. Outer diameter of those we're 7mm.

Step 3: Pump and Top..

After printing the pump i glued metal insert to the underside, used strong epoxy and 7mm pipe.

I drilled (largened/opened) 7mm holes through the fittings, so inside plastic has metal inlets all the way. That gives stronger result.

Inside container is a piece of foam, pump lays on top of it. So, it doesn't resonate in use.

Step 4: Container Continued..

Top is connected to the container with M3 screws.

I threaded holes on the container, and screwed screws on their place from the inside, so that threads point to the outside. Then i connected the top with nuts from the outside. Because 3mm thick steel is somewhat thin, this way threads doesn't wear out if i need to open the container many times. ( time shows do i need to clean it etc..)

For the powercord i printed a nut with strain relief. Fillport has "quick threads", so it shouldn't stuck. ( coolant may get sticky, and possible glue theards together. )

Step 5: Finished..

I had a possibility to use cutting fluid in my magnet drill before this.

But now i can use it with my both drills, without need to fill the container after a while of use.

I just swap the hose to the another and that's it.

As a coolant i use Ecocool.

Thank's for checking this out. I hope you get some ideas for your own build.


Tuomas Soikkeli

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