DD-27 V2.75 Compact AST Rifle
Intro: DD-27 V2.75 Compact AST Rifle
This is it. the one the only, the DD-27!. I have worked long and hard on this gun. It is the strongest to date firing pin type K'Nex gun. It works with the most frictionless-to-date barrel for ram guns. The barrel is more then 1 foot long, BUT it is only composted of 12 connectors. shoots the 7 1/2 in. grey rod.
history:
V1.0- Made as something when i was bored, never took it apart.
V1.5- I modified it for some more power
V1.75- Added Perfect Duck's pistol grip
V1.9- Added a true trigger mechanism and a better barrel
V2.0- Significant changes to the front barrel were made, stock was added.
V2.1- Heavily fortified the front of the barrel.
V2.5- Added barrel extension to make it shoot greys harder then the other red rod ammo.
V2.75- Nothing big but i added a chain on the top
Believe me, the power of this thing is unrealistic and you will never truly understand the power without making the gun.
It gets all this power from three things.
1. The barrel does not have that much friction, it still has friction but with only 12 connectors composing the entire 1 foot 2 in. long barrel.
2. It uses the KILLERK pistol type mechanism were the bullet is held in exactly were the ram will make contact with it. But mine is better. There is 1 in. of space between the ball joint(note i used a light grey connector instead of a ball joint) and the connector before it. So the gun does not lose any power before the ram hits the ball joint. Normally it would hit the side of a connector and have to go through the hole in it and that would line it up with the ball joint. And then the ram has to push through the sides of the ball joint. With no connector before the ball joint the ram just glides over the the ball joint, not losing any power, but still hits the rod, firing the gun.
3. It has almost a complete draw back of the firing pin. The block is exactly one grey spacer after the tan lock that holds the ram back. If i moved the block one blue spacer up the firing pin could not be pulled back far enough for the block to engage. This helps because the firing pin has almost a entire grey rod length to speed up and gain momentum that ultimately gives the gun power.
stats:
standard round (grey rod)-80-100 feet
sharpened rod 70-90 feet
grey connector on grey rod -accurate to 60 feet!
2 3d blue 7 slot connectors with blue clips all over on it connected to grey rod- 40 feet shrapnel 10 feet away from bullet
stats were taken with two #64 rubberbands tied togeather.
ranges and power may vary.
Please comment and rate!!!
history:
V1.0- Made as something when i was bored, never took it apart.
V1.5- I modified it for some more power
V1.75- Added Perfect Duck's pistol grip
V1.9- Added a true trigger mechanism and a better barrel
V2.0- Significant changes to the front barrel were made, stock was added.
V2.1- Heavily fortified the front of the barrel.
V2.5- Added barrel extension to make it shoot greys harder then the other red rod ammo.
V2.75- Nothing big but i added a chain on the top
Believe me, the power of this thing is unrealistic and you will never truly understand the power without making the gun.
It gets all this power from three things.
1. The barrel does not have that much friction, it still has friction but with only 12 connectors composing the entire 1 foot 2 in. long barrel.
2. It uses the KILLERK pistol type mechanism were the bullet is held in exactly were the ram will make contact with it. But mine is better. There is 1 in. of space between the ball joint(note i used a light grey connector instead of a ball joint) and the connector before it. So the gun does not lose any power before the ram hits the ball joint. Normally it would hit the side of a connector and have to go through the hole in it and that would line it up with the ball joint. And then the ram has to push through the sides of the ball joint. With no connector before the ball joint the ram just glides over the the ball joint, not losing any power, but still hits the rod, firing the gun.
3. It has almost a complete draw back of the firing pin. The block is exactly one grey spacer after the tan lock that holds the ram back. If i moved the block one blue spacer up the firing pin could not be pulled back far enough for the block to engage. This helps because the firing pin has almost a entire grey rod length to speed up and gain momentum that ultimately gives the gun power.
stats:
standard round (grey rod)-80-100 feet
sharpened rod 70-90 feet
grey connector on grey rod -accurate to 60 feet!
2 3d blue 7 slot connectors with blue clips all over on it connected to grey rod- 40 feet shrapnel 10 feet away from bullet
stats were taken with two #64 rubberbands tied togeather.
ranges and power may vary.
Please comment and rate!!!
STEP 1: Gather Your Parts
Parts list:*
RODS:
green-----------------------37
white------------------------100
blue-------------------------18
yellow----------------------15
red--------------------------1
grey-------------------------2(black recommend)
CONNECTORS:
dark grey------------------16
light grey------------------5
red/granite---------------45
green----------------------11
yellow---------------------49
orange--------------------35
white-----------------------22
EXOTIC:
tan locks------------------2(one needs to be weakened, see Perfect Duck's twin pistols to find out how)
black hands--------------18
hinges---------------------2
ball joint ball-------------1
blue spacers------------21
grey spacers------------14
flexy yellow rod---------1
OTHER:
tape
*Subject to counting errors
RODS:
green-----------------------37
white------------------------100
blue-------------------------18
yellow----------------------15
red--------------------------1
grey-------------------------2(black recommend)
CONNECTORS:
dark grey------------------16
light grey------------------5
red/granite---------------45
green----------------------11
yellow---------------------49
orange--------------------35
white-----------------------22
EXOTIC:
tan locks------------------2(one needs to be weakened, see Perfect Duck's twin pistols to find out how)
black hands--------------18
hinges---------------------2
ball joint ball-------------1
blue spacers------------21
grey spacers------------14
flexy yellow rod---------1
OTHER:
tape
*Subject to counting errors
STEP 2: Beginning of Barrel and Ram
This is a some what special part. it is one of the only guns that get a complete draw back of the ram. the block on this gun is right before were the ram can not be pulled back any more(a tan lock holds the ram in). So i get almost a entire grey rod length for the ram to speed up.
This as around the easiest part of the entire gun. You need to add tape to the ram, If you don't then you will have broken pieces when you fire the gun.
The one tan lock in the picture is the modified one.
Sorry about this being a big part, but it should not be hard, as this part is not complicated.
This as around the easiest part of the entire gun. You need to add tape to the ram, If you don't then you will have broken pieces when you fire the gun.
The one tan lock in the picture is the modified one.
Sorry about this being a big part, but it should not be hard, as this part is not complicated.
STEP 3: Make and Add Handle
Not hard, this is the same as Perfect Duck's handle. Instructions are not that in depth because you can find them on perfect ducks instructable.
STEP 4: Add Extended Barrel.
Most important part, this is what gives the gun its power. I explained it all on the intro so just make from the pictures. This is the longest step, i tried to make it as easy to make as possible but pay attention to what you are connecting.
STEP 5: Extend Barrel Even More
Yes, the barrel gets bigger. We are going to add more to the barrel and a hand grip.
STEP 6: Strengthen the Barrel
Add ons to the barrel. They make the barrel a lot stronger.
STEP 7: Add Stock
Make the stock, its not the best but it works well, and looks cool.
STEP 8: Add Trigger
Add the trigger
STEP 9: Chain
Make the chain, and attach were noted in the picture.
STEP 10: Ready, Aim, FIRE!
Just attach 2 rubber bands to the ram, and one to the trigger. Then pull the ram back, and push a grey rod into the light grey connector in the barrel. Then just aim and pull the trigger.
Don't get hurt like i did!
Don't get hurt like i did!
605 Comments
shieldsam 11 years ago
DracoUltima 12 years ago
dsman195276 12 years ago
Also, you have to make sure the bands are very balanced. If they are puling the firing pin even slightly to one side or the other that will seriously hinder performance.
You should also note, I have much much more K'NEX then is in this gun, butI don't see how that effects the gun at all.
DSMan195276
~Aeronous~ 13 years ago
dsman195276 13 years ago
I seriously recommend building this gun without just because it's really bad. Now the next version of the gun that i made(the Ible for it is probably coming soon. I don't know, I've been saying that for who knows how long now....) has a pin guide because the stock is strong enough to not bend. In that case it probably does help a little, and makes the pullback easier.
~Aeronous~ 13 years ago
dsman195276 13 years ago
~Aeronous~ 13 years ago
dsman195276 13 years ago
I'd be allot more enthusiastic about the NAR if Ooda actually put some thought into how he dispersed the impact instead of shoving a piece in the barrel to take the entire impact force.
~Aeronous~ 13 years ago
dsman195276 13 years ago
Second, I really don't care if you think that the NAR is better then this. And if you do, why are you bothering to even post on this gun? AND you went as far as to tell me to "hurry up and post it".
As for the ball joint, you got me that I can't say from experience that I've ever had a ball joint break(I never wanted to risk a ball joint to test it, since I have a limited amount of them) but I have plenty of friends from instrucatables that have told me that their ball joint broke. I have no idea if they put it in the right way or what ever, but there smart so I imagine they did. Saying "the ball joint won't break" is a pretty bold statement.
Honestly if you like the NAR so much, then go build that.
~Aeronous~ 13 years ago
dsman195276 13 years ago
And it's great to know you support this, but i'll let you know right now that I DON'T support putting Ooda's 'ball joint' power taker thing. If I do make something like that I'll actually have it suppress the power instead of just bluntly take it.
DJ Radio 13 years ago
dsman195276 13 years ago
As for it sounding 'wimpy', it'd get the same amount of force Ooda's ball joint can. Just without the chance to break your pieces.
Basically, it'd work like this:
Fire the gun
The Firing pin hits the end of the bullet, firing it. Right after that, the suppressor kicks in, and stops the firing pin from moving so fast. Kinda like if you replaces the front of the gun with Styrofoam. Obviously the implementation of such a system would be nothing like styrofoam, but it would cause a suppression effect close to that type of material.
I honestly don't see how anybody can object to a system like this. If nothing it's just another advancement we can make in the realm of K'Nex Weaponry.
DSMan195276
DJ Radio 13 years ago
The problem with that system though is that something like that would tremendously reduce the amount of energy being transferred to the bullet since it would "Absorb" more power than the balljoint on the NAR.
Also, the front of the gun (The parts after the balljoint) take the force, not just the balljoint itself.
~Aeronous~ 13 years ago
~Aeronous~ 13 years ago
Storm950 13 years ago
sukinmaru 13 years ago