Introduction: DIY 1-Hour Workbench / Outfeed Table
This workbench is made from all 2x4 dimensional lumber and less than one full sheet of 3/4" plywood.
Here is the overall cut-list for the base:
8 x 28-1/8" (Legs)
4 x 37" (short braces)
4 x 67-3/4" (long braces)
I cut my top at 42" x 67-3/4". It has 2 extra inches of width in order to overhang a bracket on the back of my table saw.
Step 1: Cut the Legs
I cut 8 pieces of 2x4 to 28-1/8". These will eventually become the legs, so I made sure they were all the exact same length. I used a stop-block on my miter saw to do this.
These legs are cut at a length that is equal to the height of my table saw, minus the height of the casters I used, minus the thickness of the top (3/4"). This made the workbench sit level with my table saw.
Step 2: Assemble the Legs
I used 2-1/2" construction screws to assemble the leg pieces at 90-degree angles. I like to use these particular screws because pre-drilling holes is not necessary-- they are excellent at not splitting the wood (honest opinion; I have no relationship with this company).
Make sure that the pieces are perfectly flush with each other so that your legs remain the same exact height.
Step 3: Cut the Side Braces (Short Sides)
I cut 4 pieces to a length of 37". These will become the braces on the short side of the workbench. Again, make sure they are all the same exact length-- this will help keep the workbench square.
Step 4: Attach the Side Braces (Short Sides)
I used 2 of the side support braces to attach 2 legs together, making sure the braces were flush with the tops of the legs. For the lower support braces, I used a scrap piece of wood as a spacer block to mark the same height on all 4 legs. Then I attached the lower support braces, using them to pull the legs straight and parallel before driving the screws in.
Step 5: Attach the Casters (optional)
If you are attaching casters, now is the time to do it! I used 1-1/4" screws and washers to attach mine under each leg. Make sure your casters have a locking mechanism and that it locks both the wheels and the swivel in each caster.
Step 6: Cut and Attach the Side Braces (Long Sides)
The last 2x4 pieces that need to be cut are 4 pieces at 67-3/4". These will be the upper and lower long-side support braces.
I attached them the same way I attached the short-side braces-- I made sure the upper braces were flush with the tops of the legs, then used a spacer block to ensure the lower braces were level.
The dimensions of the short and long side support braces were made for my particular workshop-- you can obviously alter these dimensions to fit your space.
Step 7: Attach the Lower Side Braces (Long Sides)
You'll probably want to use a clamp to help you out for this step, since the bottom of the legs won't be flush to the ground anymore with the casters installed.
Step 8: Cut the Top to Size
Cutting the top to 40" x 67-3/4" will make it flush with the base of the workbench-- I cut mine at 42" x 67-3/4" to add an extra 2" of width. This allows it to clear a bracket on the back of my table saw and sit flush against the cast iron top.
I used a track saw but there are many different ways to accomplish this cut. A simple circular saw with a straight-edge guide would be perfectly suitable.
Step 9: Attach the Top
I used 1-1/4" construction screws to attach the top to the base. You could attach it from underneath, but I plan on beating mine up and replacing it semi-regularly, so I wanted to make that process as easy as possible by attaching it through the top.
Step 10: Done!
That's all there is to it! This build can be accomplished in under an hour if you really go at it-- maybe 2 hours if you're in no rush.
Be sure to check out the video for more details of the process. I've got lots of other projects over on my channel, too: Robert J. Keller on YouTube
To see what I'm working on these days, head on over to my Instagram: @robertjkeller
Shoot me a message here, there, or anywhere if you have any questions.