Introduction: DIY 3D Printer Enclosure for Bambu A1 Combo

About: Let's make something

Recently I started to get in touch with 3D printing

Seeing that many players are building enclosures for their printers, I also want to have one

The casing generally has the following functions:


Keep temperature:

Printing on certain materials must be maintained at a certain temperature, otherwise it is easy to fail, such as ABS


Anti-air pollution:

Some materials can release VOCs toxic gases, such as ABS, ASA

I have no plans to use these toxic materials for the time being, but research shows that PLA or PETG may also produce particulate matter, and PM2.5 can also affect health. I currently use it in the study, so it is best to filter it.


Dustproof:

Prevents dust from clogging parts


Sound insulation:

Reduces noise when printing


There may be several ways to build a case:


(1)Use IKEA LACK small table transformation

Advantages: Economical and convenient

Disadvantages: Not strong, easy to shake

(2)Customized using wood

Advantages: Sturdy and durable, suitable for your needs

Disadvantages: High cost, heavy


(3)The other

The advantages and disadvantages have not been studied. I have seen an experts use air-tight window modifications, which are very quiet.


Because I have been playing carpentry for several years as a personal hobby, I have some tools at hand that I can use

So I chose the second method to build a cabinet that suits me

I plan to use birch plywood to make a floor-standing cabinet with a transparent door, about 120cm high, 60cm wide, and 60cm deep

The advantage of choosing this kind of wood board is that it is strong and beautiful, and it still looks good even if it is not painted. The disadvantage is that the unit price is relatively high.

There is an air intake vent at the rear, which can also allow wires to pass through

A fan and HEPA filter are installed on the upper left side to dissipate heat and filter PM2.5

Then put the 3D printer-Bambu A1 inside and convert the AMS Lite into a wall-mounted one.

This way I don't have to drill holes in the cement wall, and it becomes easier to move the location.

As shown below

Supplies

Material

  1. birch plywood 12mm thickness
  2. Transparent acrylic 3mm thickness
  3. Cabinet legs
  4. Hinges, handles, door catches
  5. screws, dowels
  6. 18CM fan+Toyota Altis air filter+12V power supply
  7. Temperature control socket
  8. LED ceiling light
  9. rubber block
  10. 18AWG 0.75 Sqmm wire 2 meters
  11. 2.7M six-plug extension cord
  12. thermometer

tool

  1. Table saw
  2. Circular saw
  3. Jig saw
  4. Trimmer or Router & Jig
  5. Cordless Drill

Tools and accessories made with 3D printing

  1. R50 yellow template & R38 white template (wooden ones are also available)
  2. Honeycomb vent
  3. filter support

Step 1: Cabinet Top Production

The shape of large rounded corners is a challenge, I have never made it before

Before making it, I first made the R38 template out of wood, which took some time.

Print 2 white R38 templates

Compared to the wooden version, 3D printing is effortless and enjoyable to make templates

To bend the board, you can use the cutting method to cut the groove but not cut it, leaving 1~2mm

The tool at the following website helps me calculate the cutting position

https://www.blocklayer.com/kerf-spacing

After cutting the board, pour hot water on it to soften the wood.

Use the R38 template and clamps to slowly bend it

After drying the next day, release the clamp and it will bend

Then apply woodworking glue, clamp the R38 template again, and wait for the glue to dry.

Step 2: Back Panel

Generally, thin boards of about 3mm are often used as the back panels for storage cabinets, but I need to hang AMS Lite, I must use a 12mm board to be stronger.

Use a jigsaw machine to cut out the lower vents, and use a trimmer with a yellow R50 template to mill the outer arcs above.

Step 3: Side Panel

Cut out the fan exhaust port on the left side panel and drill the screw holes to fix the fan.

The right panel is an ordinary rectangle

Step 4: The Base

The two boards are stacked, secured together with screws, and then the cabinet legs are installed.

Step 5: The Door

Use a jigsaw to cut off the wood in the middle

Then use the trimming machine with the yellow R50 template to mill out the internal and external arcs.

Then dig out a rectangle with a depth of 3mm to place the acrylic board

Drill holes in the four corners of the acrylic board to secure the screws. Also, 2 screws in the middle. It is recommended that glue be applied around them.

Step 6: Hinges

I have 2 of these buffer hinges that don’t require digging holes, and they just fit

First test on two pieces of scrap wood to find the suitable screw position.

Then apply it to the cabinet, it will be easier to install

Step 7: Joint the Top and Side

I used dowels to connect the cabinet top and side panels. I had to drill holes and find the correct positions first.

First drill the holes in the side panels, insert the dowel locators, align the top of the cabinet, and tap it with a rubber mallet.

A groove will appear, which is where the hole needs to be drilled.

After the four dowels are connected, lock a screw from the left and right sides of the back panel.

Step 8: Trial Assembly

First combine all the parts as a practice, find out the problem and solve it (Debug)

By the way, drill all the holes for screws so that you won’t create a lot of sawdust when installing it in the study.

Because the cabinet is very heavy, if I move it after glued, I may not be able to move it to the study on the second floor by myself.

So I plan to just use screws

Move the parts upstairs in batches and assemble them on site

Step 9: Missing Improvements

1. The cabinet top size is too high

After the glue dried, I did not measure whether the dimensions were the same as expected.

Later I found out that it was 2~3mm higher than the original design.

It is judged that the groove cut at the bend is not completely tight

Fortunately this is not a serious bug.

The back is out of sight, so you don't need to worry about it.

In the front, The problem can be solved by simply raising the door position.

2. The door does not close tightly, it may be a twisting problem.

Solve it with magnet door catch

Step 10: Final Assembly and Accessories Installation

1.Move everything to the study room on the second floor and assemble it

2.LED light:

Ordinary 110V ceiling lamps are cheap and easy to install. First, install the base and 0.75mm square wires, then rotate the lamp and snap it on. The quality of the case looks much better when the lamp is turned on.

3.18cm fan + HEPA filter + side honeycomb mesh:

Secure the 18CM fan, then snap in the 3D printed bracket that designed myself, and then insert the air filter.Connect the 12V power supply, and use B7000 glue to stick the honeycomb vent on the side.

4.AMS Lite wall mount:

I found this very useful set of brackets in MakeWorld. Please note that there is a version with holes dug in the middle to allow wires to pass through. If you want to use it, you need to download this version.

https://makerworld.com/zh/models/458785#profileId-366931

5.honeycomb vents:

I designed a vent that can pass power cords

6.Extension cord:

Use its switches to control various accessories and label each position.

In addition, I also printed a bracket for the 12V power supply.

7.Temperature control switch + temperature probe:

Set the power to automatically shut off when temperatures exceed 45C, and place the temperature probe under the printer.

The printer's power cord is plugged into the thermostat switch.

I also hang a thermometer for easy observation

8.Rubber pad:

four pieces of 1-inch thick hard rubber, hoping to reduce vibration during printing

9. small fan:

The 8cm fan will increase the airflow underneath to help dissipate heat from the A1 motherboard and power supply, using the same 12V power supply.

Step 11: User Experience

  1. The fan is noisy, adjust the speed to reduce it
  2. Vibration will cause doors and cabinets to flap and make noise, which can be improved by applying sponge strips.
  3. The temperature inside the cabinet is about 32C


Step 12: Things to Note for the Future

  1. I heard that the official does not recommend using a case for the A1. I think the main consideration is that the motherboard under the A1 does not have a cooling fan.
  2. The power supply may have overheating issues, which is worth paying attention to. Perhaps in the future, you can consider refitting the power supply to the outside of the case.
  3. Replace the HEAP filter regularly and pay attention to whether it effectively blocks PM2.5. An air purifier or air pollution detector is required.
  4. Find ways to reduce vibration
  5. Continuously learn, refer to other people’s experiences, and solve ill-conceived projects