DIY 4X8 Micro-Tiny House Camper on Harbor Freight Trailer

Intro: DIY 4X8 Micro-Tiny House Camper on Harbor Freight Trailer

I got this idea from a multitude of TLC shows. I did homework on this for quite some time before pulling the trigger. Using a little luck and a combo of other Instructables and whatnot, we tossed this together in about 2 weeks of working evenings.

STEP 1: Intro

A lot of simple tools were used to make this and I dont have the exact count on materials. The total cost was around $1100 (trailer included). This was done as a fun thing, so we didn't really follow plans very closely, just kinda winged it.

STEP 2: Assemble Trailer

This trailer was on sale at Harbor Freight for $250. Has the 1500lb axle and when completed weighs nothing close to that.

I used a motorcycle wrench and a crescent wrench. I eventually went back and impacted the bolts together.

The instructions in the manual were complete trash, so I would recommend a Youtube search to help you out.

I made sure to leave the fenders and the lights off so they would not get in the way while building.

STEP 3: Plywood and Frame

After the trailer is set up, attach the 1/2 in plywood as well as the 2x3 frame to the trailer frame. I used a bunch of carriage bolts through existing holes in the trailer frame instead of drilling into it myself.

It is important to tighten the carriage bolts reeeeeeally tight in order for the screw heads in the corners of the trailer to bite into the wood. If it isnt tight enough you will have a small gap between the plywood and metal frame. (thank god for impact drivers)

Clamps totally help out here.

STEP 4: Frame

The next step was to make the frame. Measurements change depending on which window(s) you choose and where you want to put them. I went with 28x39 storm windows from home depot. They were around $30 a piece. You'll note that there are only 3 sides here. I wanted to make my door swing all the way open and be able to attach to the outer wall so that I could double this trailer as a motorcycle hauler, so the door will be the size of the entire back wall.

STEP 5: Attaching Sides to Base

I started by attaching the front wall using 3 inch construction screws. I used an awful lot of them to ensure intregrity. It is super important to keep checking your square with a speed square. Levels aren't very accurate because of the trailer moving, so I would definitely recommend a square. Once The first wall was on (and quadruple checked for square) the next two went on. Note that we staggered the windows so that they were on opposite sides and opposite ends. This was actually a mistake (a lot of Natty was used in the making of this), but once we realized it, I kind of liked the idea, so we kept it.

STEP 6: Roof/Front Wall

As if it wasn't apparent from the photos, I do not have an indoor shop to work on this. Being as I live in SC and it rains almost every day, we had to go out of order and add the roof next. We measured to the center and added a 2x4 for a roof support. Plenty of liquid nails was added to the top of the frame to seal the roof from water.

Atop the 2x4 a 1/2 in thick 4x8 OSB was used. I Decided to use (2) 2x8 corrugated steel panels for the roof with a slight pitch above the door to keep rain from the door jam. To do this, I attached a 2x3 to the OSB directly above the door. Next, I used (2) tubes of roofing tar on top of the OSB to hold the steel down, then screwed the steel in. When secured (carefully) with roof fasteners, a nice slope was created in the roof for water to drain from.

The front wall was cut from a 1/2 in 4x8 piece of plywood and also sealed with Liquid Nails.

STEP 7: Outside Sides and Window Cuts

Since I did a lot of guess work with the dimensions, I made the walls too high. They sit at 58" high, so excess plywood needs to be stitched into it to make it whole. If I were to do it again, I would keep it at 48" so (1) panel would cover without cutting. Before the walls were installed they were test fitted to the frame and the window frames were traced so we could cut them with a circular saw on the ground instead of a recip. saw on the frame. Even though the storm windows bolt to the outside and would hide any mistakes, this makes for cleaner cuts.

I needed to rip a 10" x 8' section of plywood to finish the bottom of the wall. I used liquid nails to attach to the frame and fill the seam. Once that dried, I spackled it in on both sides two times.

Once the windows were cut, more liquid nails was applied to bond the wood, then screwed in place.

STEP 8: (Optional) Insulation

I used (2) rolls of pink panther insulation on all 3 walls before I put up the inside panels.

STEP 9: Inside Paneling and Second Floor

In other instructables I saw people use underlayment. I decided to just use 5/16 plywood. The same procedure as the outside was used. Cut window holes with circular saw, add liquid nails to panel, attach panels to walls.

The interior roof is made of a cheap, ugly 4x8 panel board. I did this to make it easier to see if water leaked. It is cheap and easy to tear down. Luckily I haven't had any leaks yet. Paint hides the grossness of this board at the end.

I also added a 4x8 osb to the floor on the interior. The plywood alone felt too springy, so the OSB was added for support and ground insulation. It also reduces the dip created by the thickness of the frame.

A spot was left open in the front corner to install a cabinet.

STEP 10: Back Door

The back door is attached using (3) 8 inch hinges. The frame for the door is made of (1) 2x3 for the hinges to attach to, and the rest are 2x2. 5/16 in plywood is the paneling. Liquid nails and caulk attach it to the frame.

On top and bottom I stapled a rubber door trim to keep water out

STEP 11: Paint and Trim

This bad boy has 3 coats of outdoor paint and primer. The paint is thick enough to hide the ugly seam. It also doubles as a protection from water and elements.

Metal trim with a drip edge was used on the two long sides. The front and back are a 4in 90 degree flashing. I offset it with some scrap osb so that water could drip off of the roof and underneath it.

Excess 4in flashing was cut with tin snips and used to hide the 2x4 riser mentioned earlier to put the roof pitch in.

STEP 12: Windows

Storm windows bolt to the outside of the window. We caulked the living hell out of the back, and slapped 'em on the wall.

STEP 13: Interior Paint, Base Coat and Cabinet

I used the rest of the outdoor paint as a base coat to fill any gaps on the inside. The drop out cabinet was also put in place to test fit. I used quarter round (only tacked in place for now) to trim in the seams.

STEP 14: Paint, Trim, Window Sills and Carpet

After removing the trim, I painted the interior blue. Ceiling stayed white to create the illusion of depth.

Outdoor carpet was installed and tacked into the floor.

Using excess plywood, a window sill was painted, caulked and installed on both windows.

At this point (hard to see in pictures) I also attached 4 anchor points to the frame so I can ratchet strap my motorcycle in it if need be.

STEP 15: More Paint, Trailer Wiring and Back Door.

Using the remaining plywood, the inside of the door was paneled. I added handles to help open it. There is also a hasp on the inside to lock it while I sleep. Hooks were added to the inside of the door to help with storage. I left the bottom not paneled so that I could mount a trash can to it.

At this point I ran all the wires for the trailer lights and all. Since the door can open all the way, I opted out of adding fenders.

STEP 16: Pull Out Bed

I wanted a custom couch/bed that was light and easy to remove. I came up with a sliding do-dad that also doubled as a storage unit. The panel is 4x4 underlayment.

STEP 17: Bed Pad/Finished Project

When compacted, it takes up less than 3 feet. Expanded, it is the size of a twin bed (exactly). I used an old mattress pad and sewed a cover on it. There are (2) three foot pads that cover the bed when it is expanded. The front door is attached by a chain to the ceiling so you can pack stuff inside it in travel. It is actually very spacious under there.

Also pictured here are (2) telescoping pvc awning poles. I sheathed (2) 5 foot pieces of 3/4 in and 1 1/4 in pipe together and added holes in increments. A bolt with a wing nut lets them move up and down. Pictures of the awning deployed will be coming soon.

Main take aways- caulk

If you do this for yourself and have any questions, I will be more than happy to try and help.

Thanks for reading

-Logan

Comments

[AleneG]

I was wondering if the width could be 6 feet. Still put the sheet of plywood on the frame. But then frame the floor to be 6 feet wide.

[tina.gallagher.125]

That would create a tip over hazard when turning. The rule of thumb is that the frame should not be wider than the tires. If you need a 6 ft wide box, buy/build a 5 ft wide trailer (I'm doing that).

[ptrw58]

Who's "Rule of Thumb"? Any data to support that?

[tina.gallagher.125]

The info comes from TKtrailers.com. They have several articles written by licensed engineers who know what they're talking about. They're the ones who gave the rule of thumb not to build wider than the tires or not more than 1 foot beyond the width of the trailer frame.

[ptrw58]

Small size Meerkat trailers made here in San Diego County build to the outside of trailer wheels. Having wheels extending out beyond the trailer sides can be dangerous since a towing person may forget the protruding wheels when towing around corners. A wheel could easily be torn off with axle damage if it catches on a low fixed obstruction.

[ptrw58]

Why not build out to outside width of fenders (61-1/2"per Harbor Freight specs). Plywood deck could go out to outside edges of fenders. Add 2 small 12" x 24" protruding "slide-outs" at bed level so that you would have enough width to sleep across the trailer width at night. That reduces bed encroachment inside space to 48" from back wall rather than 6 feet in your current configuration. You could also extend the length of the trailer box from 8' to 10' by adding a foot over tongue and adding a foot on rear using bolted on angle aluminum. Then you would have a trailer with a 61-1/2" x 120" box instead of only 48" x 96".

Also, make the walls lower for travel and then pop open an angled roof with canvas enclosure (ie. VW Westfalia style) for headroom at door end. Headroom over bed does not need to be standing height. See image below for pop top (ignore narrow width of box between wheels in image which is a waste of potential width space which I stated above).

Regarding materials for framing: why aren't DIY'ers using 2 x 3 steel studs or "hat channel"? No rot, no termites, no fire, no warping, no splitting, no splinters, lightweight, no saw needed- just tin snips, no hammering- just small teck screws). Steel studs are widely used on commercial construction. It's a "no-brainer" to use lightweight steel studs. Big Box stores sell it.

[spankyspanky1987]

I have a 8 foot by 4 foot wide trailer I want to make something like that

[spankyspanky1987]

How many 2×4's and how many sheets of ply wood to make the box ??

[SurvivalistRick]

Just wondering if you were near Florence, SC.? I would like to see it "in person" if possible.

[oldfartalot]

Just read your brill story on your micro camper.. Your spoilt in the US, $30 for those windows mate, $150- $200 at least in the UK..

[AshleyL106]

Really love these patterns! Thank you for posting. Now that you've had it for a while, are there any issues with it? I've been looking at that same Harbor Freight trailer but wondering if it will be sturdy enough for long trips. I'd appreciate any thoughts you have!

[JustinC294]

Where did you find the trailer? I haven't been able to find it, so I was getting the feeling it may have been discontinued.

[NatalieM104]

I have this same question. I can't find this, bummer.

[srilyk]

Not sure if they have the *same* trailer, but 62647, 62671 are the current SKUs for a 4x8' trailer with at least 1,500 lbs capacity.

[ClareTz]

Hello! Wondering what the final weight is on this build? Trying to determine what my car will be able to handle.
Thanks! :)

[phayes5]

How much does this camper weigh?

[Paul_ Bunyan]

Why not extend the width to 8 feet?

Have you added pictures for the awning?