Introduction: DIY Manufactured Flagstone
During the concept phase of remodeling my backyard I came up with the idea of bordering a stream i was building with flagstones to make a more appealing transition from river rock to gravel. Sort of like a carpet to tile transition in a home. Flagstone is pretty expensive, so if you've looked through any of my other 'ibles you'll know I'm too cheap for that. Since my remodel was going to be over the course of a year or so I figured I would have time to work on faux flagstones and spread the cost out.
Supplies
Tools:
Drill and various drill bits
Saw
Bucket(s)
Shovel/Trowel for mixing concrete
Latex/Rubber Gloves
Materials:
2x3
Plywood
Screws
Clingwrap
Craft Foam
Cardboard
Portland Cement
Medium Sand
Concrete Colorant
Step 1: Mold Construction
The molds are pretty straight forward. I started out with only one to prove my concept. I had some plywood and MDF scraps from other projects and used this as the base of the mold which would eventually be the "top" of the flagstones. Next I cut up random lengths of 2x3 for the mold walls and predrilled some screw holes for securing them to the wood base.
While arranging the mold walls I wanted to come out with a flagstone that was elongated to maximize the length without using too much concrete but also make it look natural and aesthetically pleasing. After my first "rock" was complete I made three different molds. I have a total of 5 different shapes at the end by changing the position of the 2x3 on two of the molds after I had made several of the original.
Step 2: Adding Depth and Detail
I didn't want stones that looked flat or slick like curated slate. Some fancy flagstone for sale looks almost like tile because they take extra care while separating the layers so they get a smooth surface. I didn't want this look. Instead I wanted the surface to look more like a stone you would find naturally with grooves, pits, and a coarse surface. The first attempt was done by layering random cutouts of 1/8" craft foam. This came out really well but still looked a little flat, so for later attempts I started adding random cut outs of cardboard from whatever spare boxes I had laying around. The cardboard mixed with the foam added another level of depth.
The last detail was lining the molds with clingwrap. This served two functions. First, I wanted to reuse the molds possibly dozens of times so I needed to protect them from the moisture of the concrete mix. Second, the tiny folds and wrinkles of the layered clingwrap added more character to the final surface.
Step 3: Mixing the Concrete
So for the concrete mix I went basic with Portland cement, medium sand, water, and colorant. I did this so I could play with the mixtures and give the rocks more sandy textures. They aren't going to be supporting any weight other than the occasional person stepping on them. Since the final strength wasn't as important as the look then I was free to get loose with the ratios until I got something that looked good. My rocks ae supposed to be imitating desert sandstone so I tried various mixtures of colorant. In the end I found that the terra cotta color with a little bit of red gave a good result but it varied depending on the sand/cement mix. Generally I went with 3 parts sand to 2 parts cement with a little more water than needed. This resulted in a pretty grainy mixture.
Step 4: The Artsy Part
After putting the cardboard and foam down I lined the mold with the clingwrap leaving enough extra to fold over the concrete once it was poured. This will help keep the moisture in while curing. The very first rock I made i just began pouring the concrete on top of the clingwrap which worked fine but the result was way too smooth almost to the point of being glossy. The next time I experimented with putting a thin layer of sand down first. This gave the finished product a sandy texture. The rocks were poured in layers to give it a striated look from the sides. I mixed small batches of concrete in a 5 gallon bucket so the variations in color between batches made the different layers stand out but subtly. One thing I also tried was putting a layer of sand between pouring layers of concrete in the hopes that if I wanted to break the rocks they would break in a layers but that didn't really work out. While pouring each layer I also built little sand dams along the sides to give the edges of the rocks more depth instead of just being flat from the forms. The rocks vary in thickness from 1.5" to 2.5". After pouring all the concrete I let them sit without covering for a few hours while the excess moisture puddles evaporate off the top. When they were just barely damp still I folded the extra clingwrap over to help keep them damp while curing.
Step 5: The Reveal
After about a day I was able to demold the rocks. They were cured enough to be solid but still damp enough to work with a little more. After taking them out I unwrapped them and laid them face up. I then put a glove on and rubbed the sand off the top. I did this pretty rough so that I would disturb some of the soft concrete with it. Because the concrete mix was sandy this made the final surface very course. I saved the sand and concrete dust that came off while doing this to use as the top layer for the next casting. Because the loose sand absorbed some of the concrete color it added more color variations to the next rocks. Some of the rocks cured dark, some cured light. I think I got a good mix.

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41 Comments
9 months ago on Step 5
I see this was posted a while back, but they just put it up again. You mention that people might step on them occasionally. When this has happened, have any of the stones broken? I don't have enough experience working with concrete to know how strong these are.
Also, any chance you could be persuaded to post something about the stream/pond you mention? (And show a little peak of here?) I used to have a pond that I made that was integrated into an area that was graded, so the back of the pond rose nicely into the surrounding landscape, and I was able to set up a fairly natural-looking waterfall. But I've since moved, and now I don't have that natural feature. It would need to be on a flat expanse, which looks somewhat like what I imagine you have. I haven't figured out a way to make something that I feel would look nice, but yours looks (from the little I've seen) like what I'm aiming to do. (Maybe a pump running from the reservoir area shown to the "origin" of the stream?) So I'm hoping you'd be willing to share your method. Thanks!
Reply 5 months ago
I know this is an old thread but you tube is your friend. This is for everyone from CarlTheLandscapeGuy. That is not me. 8^)
https://youtu.be/bZ3OWO36vAA
Reply 8 months ago
Once the ground underneath the flagstones settled they could be walked on without issues. I did have one break because I didn't notice a rock in the dirt underneath it and it provided a pressure point to snap the flagstone.
I didn't take enough pictures of the process to fill out a whole post but I can share some of the pictures below. My yard is small and pretty much flat compared to what you're describing. I had to use some reclaimed retaining wall bricks to build up a waterfall. I couldn't make it very high since I have a dog that would be able to get over my wall (also the reason for the net around the top of my wall). I backfilled the bricks with the dirt I excavated for the stream. I already had some large sandstone boulders left by the previous owners so I used them to help camouflage the bricks. I used some smaller sandstone rocks (3" - 4") to transition into the smooth river rocks. It doesn't look very natural in the environment but I did the best I could with the little space I have. I plan on adding some plants to the the top to help a little more.
The pond has a skimmer in the side with a 3000 GPH pump. I buried the tubing along side the stream which feeds as small water fountain and the water fall. If you look at my Bob-Omb instructable there are more pictures of the finished waterfall.
Reply 8 months ago
Hi, Nick
Thanks so much for the very thorough reply. I think this is something that might be within my ability to do. The digging won't be fun for this 60-year-old guy, but I could probably see about having a landscape company take care of that part for me.
Another trick, I imagine, will be how to run power to the pump if it's not very close to an outlet on the side of the house. (I have a feeling that hiring an electrician to run a line properly that's safe would cost a pretty penny.)
This may be a good project for the upcoming summer.
Reply 8 months ago
For power I dug a shallow trench (maybe 8" deep) and ran some 1" flexible liquid tight conduit about 50' to the closest exterior outlet. There was one next to my AC's condenser unit. I didn't want to do any major electrical work that I may have to undo later so I just cut one end off a heavy duty extension cord and pulled it through the conduit with a fishtape. Once it was through I attached a new plug end and plugged it into the outlet. The outlet has a weather guard so I'm not worried about leaving it plugged in. The pump I bought has a plug rather than direct wire so I plugged the pump into the extension cord and put the joint into a plastic container (tupperware) and buried it slightly but still accessible if needed. Part of the pond liner covers it to give a little added protection. I live in the desert so rain isn't really that big of a concern. Its definitely not remotely per code but its safe enough for the time being. I expect that when I eventually sell my house I'll have to remove it all.
Question 9 months ago on Introduction
Do you have any problems removing the plastic wrap from the finished "stone"?
Answer 8 months ago
Not really. If any of the wrinkles got concrete under them then I had to pull out little bits of the plastic wrap, but for the most part the sand prevented this. Even in the areas where the sand didn't have good coverage it still wasn't difficult though.
Reply 8 months ago
Thanks!
9 months ago on Introduction
These are fantastic, very realistic. Great job and well done with the instructions.
Question 1 year ago on Step 5
Hi Nick, I think these are fantastic and I'm going to give making some a try. I live in SW Florida, and have ready access to sand. What do you think about casting the shapes directly in a sculpted-sand "mold"? It's hot but very humid here and I can dampen the sand so that it doesn't suck all the moisture from the concrete. I could easily cover them, too. Thanks!
Answer 1 year ago
Sand molds would be good. I think the humidity hear would have been too low for me to try that. I used the sand to keep the plastic from giving the stone surface a glossy finish so a mold of just sand would've solved that problem.
Reply 1 year ago
Thank you, Nick. I did some more research on sand casting and I think this approach will definitely work for me. Turns out the cement needs to be quite wet as the ground will really suck the water out of it. But totally doable!
1 year ago
Very nice! I've been planning on doing something similar, especially with the layering of different colors but just never got around to it... I was thinking of using foil for the texture but your clingwrap idea seems to have worked quite well. Thank you! Now, I need to get off my derriere and actually make some :)
1 year ago
These are really amazing. I love it.
1 year ago
These are SENSATIONAL! We have a large property and multiple projects and I have been looking at moulds for paving but even though you can get a set of 5 they still look too perfect and fake. I will definitely be trying these. Thank you for the comprehensive instructions - including things that didn't quite work!
Reply 1 year ago
The things that don't quite work are the best part, to me. It helps make the next project better. One thing i didn't show was I had made an attempt to further rough up the stones with an angle grinder and a stiff wire wheel after they had completely cured. This was a mistake, as it scarred the concrete with dark marks and didn't look good. Roughing it up by hand when the concrete is still damp after unwrapping it worked much better.
Question 1 year ago on Introduction
If I wanted to make a path to be walked onto how thick would these flagstones have to be and what would you put under them please?
Answer 1 year ago
Walking path pavers don't have to be very thick if they are supported properly. You could go with 1 3/4" to 2". The ground underneath should be level and compacted. If you plan on putting them on top of gravel I would level and compact the underlying dirt first and then lightly compact the gravel on top of that. Just so there is no wiggle when you put your walking path down.
Reply 1 year ago
OK thank you for your quick reply, I appreciate it. Keep up the great work.
1 year ago on Introduction
Those look great… I’ve been waiting for someone to show me how. I’ve now got all winter to make a bunch of these. From your pictures, looks great. Tha