DIY Micro Camper

by i.hate.karl.kilburn

1.2M2.2K410

Intro: DIY Micro Camper

I love camping, and I spend almost all my free time camping or building toys for camping. I am into all types of camping, but my favorite is getting back up in the mountains far from anything or anybody.

It is great to get back to nature... However as I continue to get older, I find I need a few things to be comfortable... The primary one being a comfortable place to sleep.

A couple of years ago I decided I needed a small trailer that would haul all my camping toys, it would also be nice if I could sleep in this trailer on a real mattress.

When I was thinking about what i would build, the primary rule was the trailer had to ride behind my vehicle and be no wider or taller than my vehicle so that it could go anywhere my SUV would go. So with that one simple idea in mind I built this trailer.

After I built the trailer, it turned out to be my favorite way to go camping!!!

Other people started noticing it in campgrounds and while I was out traveling. So I started building them for friends.

Several people have said they would like to build one. So without any further commentary, here is a overview of the last one i built.

STEP 1: The Frame

This trailer is built on a 4 foot by 8 foot Harbor Freight trailer frame.

I assembled the frame right out of the box. I did not install the lights or fenders at this time because I did not want them in my way while I was building the box on the frame.

To make the trailer extremely sturdy I laid 3/4" inch plywood on the frame, then laid a 2x3 stud around the outside edge of the floor. I then drilled through the 2x3, plywood, and frame and bolted them all together. This really stiffens up the frame, and it also gives me a good anchor point for the walls to the frame.

STEP 2: Camper Materials

The micro camper is built with 2x3 studded walls with 1/2 inch exterior plywood on the outside and 1/8 inch underlayment on the inside walls.

The roof system is 2x4 rafters with 1/2 inch OSB on the outside and 1/8 inch underlayment on the ceiling.

STEP 3: Framing the Walls

I framed up the walls in the shop. The walls are framed 16 inches on center and laid out to have a window on each side and a door in the back.

STEP 4: Installing the Walls

I installed the walls on the trailer. The walls are nailed to the 2x3 that is bolted to the frame. When I install the outside sheeting it will be fastened to the rafter system, the walls, and the 2x3 that is bolted to the frame, making it a very sturdy box. Notice the top plate that goes around the walls tying them all together.

STEP 5: Installing the Roof

To install the roof I first laid a piece of 1/8 inch underlayment on top of the walls.

Then I framed the rafter system with 2x4 rafters 16 inches on center. I installed blocks in between the rafters to help tie everything together. The rafters are nailed into the top plate of the walls and into the blocks.

Finally I installed a 1/2 inch OSB piece to the top of the rafters. The camper is now framed up.

STEP 6: Sheeting the Walls

Next up I installed the exterior sheeting. This is pretty straight forward. The walls are attached with 1.5 inch deck screws.

To cut out the windows and door I used a roto-zip. That makes the job go quickly and easily.

STEP 7: Installing Aluminum Trim and Roof

After installing sheeting on the walls, the next step is to install aluminum trim and roofing. I used aluminum trim stock. It comes in a variety of sizes, and I used the 24 inch wide material. I installed aluminum on the corners to cover the exposed edges of the plywood sheeting. I also installed gutters over the windows and doors. Finally I installed aluminum sheeting on the roof with a double bend connection to make sure that it would be totally waterproof.

STEP 8: Sheeting the Interior

Inside I ran some electrical wires for the interior light and outlets and then installed 1/8 inch underlayment on the walls.

STEP 9: Door and Window Trim

Next I made the door by gluing and screwing 3 pieces of 1/2 inch exterior plywood together.

I cut out the interior trim for the windows and door.

Finally I gave everything a coat of primer.

STEP 10: Painting the Trailer

Everything inside and out was given a coat of exterior primer paint.

Then I applied a coat of Semi-Gloss exterior paint.

Then I filled all the screw holes (all 4 million of them) with caulk and gave it another coat of paint.

That is 1 coat of primer, and 2 coats of paint for those of you keeping count....

STEP 11: Electrical

Next I did all the final electrical work. I installed a 110 volt 15 amp inlet on the outside the powers an outlet and light on the inside.

I also applied another layer of paint inside and out (That's 3 coats of paint!!!)

STEP 12: Finishing Up...

Next I Installed the windows and screens.

I installed the interior window and door trim.

I hung the door. It has bolts on the inside and outside (the outside can be locked open or closed to help prevent 'accidentally' getting locked inside).

Finally the fenders and outside lights were installed.

And... One last coat of paint just to say I did it... 4 coats of paint in all.

STEP 13: Finished!!!!

The entire project takes about a week of working evenings to build.

The final cost for the trailer you see here was about $700 for everything.

I delivered this trailer to it's new owners and they have happily been camping in it ;)

I am starting another one soon...

Thanks for checking this out!!!

336 Comments

Devon M 8 months ago

How much experience would someone need to build this? For example, me and my sister have next to none experience other than helping our parents build some things in the yard, but we are thinking of building something like this together.

Sir_Jakius 9 months ago

LOVE this build! I am curious if you used sheet metal siding on the outside of the camper or painted the wood directly? Whichever method employed, how does it hold up over time?

ptrw58 1 year ago

Why not use thin gauge steel studs? No rot, no warping, non-flammable and super lightweight. Only tin snips to cut and small deck screws to fabricate. No saws, no hammering.

oldfartalot 3 years ago

Hi Buddy, instead of 2"x3" framing timber I've used 25x40mm roofing/tile batten. 1, its cheaper. 2, the walls are just as ridged but less than half the weight. We in the uk are allowed a gross weight of 750Kg's without brakes. so have to build lightweight.. Also my car is 1200cc so HAS to be light to tow it.

ptrw58 1 year ago

Thin gauge 2 x 3 steel wall studs even lighter. No rot, no fire, no warping.

ptrw58 1 year ago

Hi, Any reason that you didn't want to extend the side walls out to the edge of the fenders to add more interior space? Every inch counts. That would add about 18" to the width. Meerkat trailers do this over their wheels.

mperry100 2 years ago

I would like one of the same. what would be the price?

EddieP 2 years ago

bobvilla.com advises using two coats oil based primer on unfinished wood.

Off grid fan 3 years ago

What are the internal dimensions and does it sleep 2?

Ranahan 3 years ago

Why did you paint first, then caulk the screws. Seems the caulk would hold better on an unpainted surface.

Philcro 3 years ago

Any issues with condensation on inside walls or between walls? Should plastic sheeting be used?

pepyvo83 3 years ago

Can you add height to the walls

pepyvo83 3 years ago

How did you add the trailer lights and hook them up?

charityrgreen 3 years ago

Your original pics show a trailer base with sides attached, what did you do differently on that build vs the harbor freight base build

allen0621 6 years ago

Osb for roof? OSB is not waterproof do you coat it with something?

Popza 4 years ago

Read step #3

fisherclive9 4 years ago

This looks awesome, but I have a couple questions...
About how much does this configuration weigh?
Can the trailer be taken on a freeway over 55MPH?

Thanks.
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