Theatre productions utilize many props and background to help convey a scene to an audience. The importance of these elements as well as much of the stage's construction define scenery in technical theater. The ability to switch backgrounds and move props are extremely important to many productions, thus the use of automated or mechanically controlled integrations are becoming extremely appealing to many. Thus, this stage utilizes a pulley driven prop that can move across the scene. Additionally, the inclusion of an electronically driven moving background is to be able to switch between settings or indicate a moving scene with constant motion.

This project is the assembly of a miniature desk sized theatre to help convey aspects of technical theatre. This is an open concept stage to allow for many view angles from the audience while keeping the focus center. Additionally, the prop pulley system is currently centered as it is the focus since there are no actors. Additionally, the background is configured to be a continuous movement to indicate constant movement of the prop. Lastly the controls of all systems are placed behind the stage to allow for ease of use.

Supplies

Gearing and Electronics Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077WWS63B/ref=p...

Off-brand LEGO Construction Vehicle Kit: Found at Dollar Tree https://www.dollartree.com/make-it-blocks-construc...

Cardboard: Recycled boxes or other packaging cardboard can be used

5RPM DC motor

Small Figurine: Must have a flat bottom - Army men can work great for this - Can be found at Dollar Tree

Hot Glue Gun

Box Cutter

Access to printer: for revolving background, with approximately 4 pages.

Tape

Optional:

Any plant life or small props to help decorate the scene depending on the play.

Step 1: Frame

To make the base of the frame start by cut out two rectangular pieces of cardboard, one for the bottom and the other for the back as shown. For the top cut out a piece that spans the whole back and two sides. Then cut out a rectangle in the back of this piece with 1" to spare all the way around so the background may be shown. Vertically score 1'' away from the edges of the window to fold in the sides, this position can be held in place with some hot glue. Next, cut out the two almost triangles to support the stage. The legs measure 4'' x 3'' with the top vertical being cut flat to 1/2'' for structural support. This can then be secured with super glue the bottom and back pieces of cardboard.

Then cut two sheets of 4'' wide balsa wood to 16'' and four 1/4'' sticks to the length of 9'' and two 3'' sticks that'll be used to support the front corners of the stage. These can then be evenly spaces and glued perpendicular to the two sheets; leaving a 1/2'' gap between the sheets.

To complete the frame, place and glue the sheet of balsa wood to the triangular supports in the back and the two 3'' sticks to the corners in the front. Then glue the top piece of cardboard to the stage 2'' from the back of the stage.

Step 2: Pulley

For the pulley system moving the prop, first gauge the span needed between the gears, so the belt is taunt. This is imperative for providing fluid movement. The belt, gear, and plastic supports can then be assembled with metal rods. One of the rods will be used to manually operate the prop so make sure it's long enough to be accessible behind the backplate. A hole will be needed to allow the operating rod to protrude.

Next, two 1’’ sticks of balsa wood need to be glued to the plastic supports in order to suspend the gears. To secure the pulley system to the frame, ensure it’s lined up under the ½’’ gap in the middle stage. Then the balsa sticks can be glued into place. Finally, attach a clamp the top portion of the belt that fastens to the prop. The prop can then be placed atop the gap and fastened to the clamp on the belt.

Step 3: Electronics

First collect all materials shown in the first picture. This

includes: a switch, a battery bank, a red wire, a circular motor attachment, and lastly the 5RPM motor.

Then, place a dab of hot glue within the circular motor attachment’s column and insert the motor.

Next, cut the tips off of all wires, then strip about a half inch of wire coating off. Proceed to twist the ends of the wire.

After that, insert one of the ends of the standalone red wire into one of the switch legs. Once through the whole, pull tightly through the hole and bend the exposed section around the hole. Take the excess exposed wire and begin to twist it around the switch end.

Then, repeat the process for all wires. Connect the other end of the standalone red wire to the one end of the motor. Then connect the red wire from the battery pack to the other end of the switch. Lastly connect the black wire from the battery pack to the other end of the motor. NOTE: When wiring the battery pack, not batteries should be in it and the metal lever should be oriented up.

Once fully wired as scene in the picture. Test the circuit by placing down the metal lever and switching the switch on.

Lastly, cut holes in the back of the bottom of the frame to feed the motor and switch through while keeping the battery pack inside. Mount the switch into place with hot glue.

Step 4: Mounting the Motor and Background

First, hot glue one aluminum can to the motor attachment. Then mount the to the back of the box as shown. After, glue the motor to the back side of the box. Reinforcement is recommended, which can be made out of additional lego parts.

Then, collect the parts shown in the first photo for a mounting mechanism of the second aluminum can. Hot glue the wheel down to the center bottom of the can. Then insert the assembly shown in the pictures and hot glue to the back side of the box.

Print out several sheets of paper with your desired background and cut to fit the height of the back. Tape all pages together to make one long strip. Then wrap the pages around the can and pull tightly to create tension between the two cans before taping the ends together.

If one of the cans begins to sag or lean, reinforcement can be added by using sticks of balsa wood resting against the lean. Be sure to ensure the cans can still turn and the force of the reinforcements does not break the background.

Step 5: Final Assembly and Aesthetics

For this step, you will construct the final assembly and implement any decorations or scenery that are applicable to your play. After the motors for the rotating background are mounted and the background is attached to the aluminum cans you can hot glue the backplate to the stage, leaving enough room for the background to rotate freely. We gave a 2 ½” gap from the back of the stage but depending on mounting this could vary slightly. For our project, we used bits of pine trees as scenery that were hot glued directly to the stage, but feel free to use any scenery or décor that would fit the theme of your play. Just make sure that any scenery doesn’t interfere with the prop’s movement. Finally, we cut out a 16” x 3 ½“ piece of cardboard that was spray painted to the same color as the backplate and glued it to the front of the stage for clean presentation.