Taking a friend or family member with you on a hike or camping can be difficult when they struggle to walk/hike for whatever reason. There is a wide variety of equipment/devices out there for these individuals (google 'adaptive hiking equipment' and select images) and this just adds another one to consider. This carrier is an improved version made based on the Mitch Mobile developed and used by a scout troop.

Pros: It is a smaller more light-weight frame and easier to store/transport than most of the adaptive rickshaw frames. It also goes where wheels do not.

Con: It has no wheels, so each person is carrying half the weight of the person, plus 15 lbs (guessing the frame weighs 20-30 lbs.)

Total cost for our build was around: $275

Supplies

-about 20 feet (8,8,2,2) of 1.25 inch steel pipe with an 1/8 inch wall thickness (Don't go smaller than 1 inch pipe); $32

-1 camping chair of your choice/preference (High Back Outdoor Chair with Head Rest); $75

-2 industrial padded suspenders/harnesses (Toughbuilt CT-51P Pro Padded Suspenders); $40

-4 climbing carabiners (Screw lock carabiner with wide frame); $50

-4 climbing runners 60 cm (Black Diamond 18 mm Nylon Runners); $35

-4 rubber caps (Round Rubber Furniture Leg Caps 1-1/4"); $10

-short length of 1 inch angle iron; $10

-5-6 feet of 1 inch webbing or rope; $6

-1.5 foot long pvc pipe, board, or plywood (will be used for the foot rest); $4

-Spray paint in your color of choice; $10

-4 - 5/16 inch bolts and nuts; $3

Step 1: Adding Hooks to Camp Chair

Hooks:

Cut two 1.5 inch long pieces of 1.25 inch pipe.
Cut each in half so you have four C-shaped pieces.
Round the corners on one side of each of them. Leave the other side square.
Lay each on a flat surface such that the arch faces up and the part will not rock.
Tap lightly with a hammer to open them up a bit so they rest easily on top of the 1.25 inch pipe.

These hooks are what support the chair on the frame.

This next part will change a lot from camp chair to camp chair.

Hook placement:

Determine the best attachment points for your camp chair. Four solid points of contact are needed and it is best to have the hooks close to the seat height of the chair.
Cut the 1 inch angle iron into four 1.5 inch lengths
Drill holes for a 5/16 inch bolts in the frame and in the center of one face of the angle iron piece.
Bolt the angle iron on temporarily for taking measurements.
Once the measurement has been set weld the C-shaped pipe halves to the angle iron to create the hook. The hooks should be level such that the chair can hang in the center of the frame

Step 2: Carrying Frame

Frame Spacing:

With the hooks on the chair measure the overall side to side distance on whichever pair of hooks stick out further.
Add 1.25 inches to your measurement and that is your center to center (CTC) width measurement of the carrying frame. It will likely be between 20-28 inches, depending on your camping chair.

Frame Fabrication:

Cut two pieces, CTC long of the 1.25 inch pipe. Use the hole saw or grinder to cope the ends to meet the other 1.25 inch pipe.
Cut two pieces 8 ft long.
Weld the frame together as shown in the sketch above. Keep level and square.
With the chair on the frame tabs can be welded in front of and behind the hooks to help with placement of the chair. These tabs also help prevent the chair from sliding up and down the frame while walking up and down hills. Be careful not to weld the hooks to the frame so the chair can easily be removed.

Step 3: Accessories

Shoulder Straps:

Shoulder straps help with weight distribution and safety. Be sure to use hardware of appropriate strength. This is why climbing runners and climbing carabiners are used. The height of the shoulder straps can be adjusted by making multiple loops around the frame with the climbing runners.

Foot Rest:

1 inch nylon webbing can be used in combination with a small piece of wood or PVC pipe to create a foot rest.

Using adjustable buckles the height of the foot rest can easily changed.