Dowel Making Jig for Your Crosscut Sled




Introduction: Dowel Making Jig for Your Crosscut Sled

About: I'm an environmentally conscious experimenter who loves to bring people together, build things, and when possible...blow things up! See us on YouTube too!

Now you can make your own dowels with this handy attachment for your crosscut sled.

Step 1: Tools and Materials


  • Table saw
  • Drill and Forstner bits or holesaws
  • Crosscut sled (instructions to make one are here)
  • Bar clamp


  • Doug fir 2x4 6-18"

Step 2: Drill Some Holes

If you want a variety of sizes available, make sure your 2x4 is long enough to accommodate all of them. If you only want one size, all you need is a few inches. This project makes 5 different sizes of dowels.

Draw a base line. The idea is to align the bottoms of all the guide holes to this line. Using a Forstner bit or holesaw, drill a series of guide holes.

Step 3: Rip the 2x4

Set your rip fence to split the 2x4 right down the middle. Raise the blade high enough to cut through one fourth of the largest guide hole. Run the 2x4 through three or four times.

Installation is easy. Install your crosscut sled and raise the blade. Set the dowel jig down over the blade and clamp it into place.

Step 4: Make Some Dowels!

Rip a piece of wood to a square size that will fit into one of the holes. Find the center by drawing lines from corner to corner on one end. Run a drywall screw into the end and attach a hand drill to it. Put the square end into the round hole and spin it with the drill as the table saw blade rounds out the dowel. This works best with a crosscut blade installed on the table saw. Each hole is good for a couple different sized dowels. You'll need to experiment with it to learn proper blade settings for different sized dowels.

Be the First to Share


    • Game Design: Student Design Challenge

      Game Design: Student Design Challenge
    • Anything Goes Contest

      Anything Goes Contest
    • Block Code Contest

      Block Code Contest



    6 years ago

    It seems like you'd get smoother, more accurate results if the in-feed side hole is larger than the desired out-feed size. Adjust the blade height to exactly line up with the bottom edge of the out-feed hole. Taper the tip a bit to start it and it should feed through nice and smoothly, with very little vibration on the other side since the exiting dowel very closely matches the guide hole. You might even pass it through a block of foam to be sure to dampen any vibration. At least, it works in my head. :) I'll have to give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for sharing!


    6 years ago

    could you provide a video of this tool in use?


    Reply 6 years ago

    There is one on the last page.