Drawknife, How to Make

Intro: Drawknife, How to Make

Hello, in this project I show you how to make

my Drawknife.

First of all, I apologize for my lack of words, I still have to learn a lot. My mother tongue is not English and I am still learning. Thanks to all of you who are correcting me and helping me to learn. If you see any error, do not hesitate to correct me.

If you like the video please Subscribe to my Youtube Channel.

Ø How I did my Drawknife and my tools:

• Radial

• Column drill

• Belt sander

• My forge (you can see how I made it on my channel)

• Oven in my house

• Lima

• Coarse grain stone

• Grain stone 3000 and 8000

Material

• D2 steel 500 x 30 x 6 mm

Chemical composition: C (1.55) Mn (0.40) Si (0.40) Cr (12) Mo (0.75) V (0.75)

STEP 1:  Design:

Let´s go. The first thing I did was draw my

Drawknife, I gave the sheet 200mm with a curve of 16mm in diameter and I finished the shape making a diagonal up to 8mm from the end.

STEP 2:  Cut:

I made the drilling with the 16mm column drill

and then I finished the cuts with the radial. I am boring with the drill to save cutting time with the radial and discs.

Roughing:

Marking a line parallel to the edge that will be the edge of 15mm, I start roughing with my belt sander with a grain of 36 sandpaper, to take the desired shape and finish smoothing the bottom with the same sandpaper.

STEP 3: Roughing:

Marking a line parallel to the edge that will

be the edge of 15mm, I start roughing with my belt sander with a grain of 36 sandpaper, to take the desired shape and finish smoothing the bottom with the same sandpaper.

STEP 4:  the Shape of the Handles:

I turn the forge and heat red hot the widest

part of the handles, with the help of a tool that I have manufactured with an angle of iron of 40 x 40 mm and some support screws where I wanted it to bend, help me with a steel bar, to pry and get the two sides equal.

In this part of the project is where I am experimenting more, due to I am not an expert in the forge, I must say that everything is done with the videos and things I can read I read.

If there is something wrong, please, do not hesitate to tell me, I would like to learn from my mistakes.

STEP 5:  Heat Treatment:

Normalized steel, putting it red-hot and letting cool one hour by itself.

The tempered I put it to the alive red also until it loses the polarity, that I check with a magnet and I maintain it a minute more inside the forge, cooling it with oil.

Annealing I have one hour at 200 degrees, 10 minutes for each millimeter of thickness.

STEP 6:  Handles:

For the Handles, I use a piece of olive tree,

with stainless steel rings. It is the first time I use the lathe, I am not very loose the subject of the rings, weighed that they would adjust when putting the tool, but it was not to I shave the handle and I have to do it again.

Then I made a 6mm hole in the part of the steel ring and finished it with a pair of hands of flaxseed oil

STEP 7: Finishing and Sharpening

Review with 400 sandpaper the bottom of the

blade and the edge.

I start to get the edge with a basic Stanley stone and I finish it with a 3000 and 8000 grain stone, always using water to facilitate the sharpening

STEP 8:

I place the handles with the help of a mallet

and it was ready to try it and enjoy it!

STEP 9:

I hope you like it, any mistakes with the

vocabulary, please do not hesitate to tell me to improve.

Comments

[DonM147]

Your English is just fine, my friend. You made some small mistakes with grammar, but it is a very difficult language and you should be proud of how well you write it. Many Americans cannot write as well as you do :-)

You might consider a different steel. D2 may work well enough but may not temper out to hold an edge for a long time of use.

Second, you might consider giving dimensions in inches as well as cm/mm. America is not as advanced with the metric system as many countries.

Keep up the good work, my friend.

[schaapkameel]

What kind of stell would you suggest is good to use?

[michaeljsw]

Forget your English is not your first language nor is this idea only for wood, excellent process steps and your idea is great (of course everyone's non-native language can be improved but don't stress - keep posting!)

You should promote this in southern Europe ASAP - specifically for Iberian ham - everyone buys one for the festive season and then have the nightmare of carving them - this could be a perfect assistant!

[fghuertas]

Thank you very much for your comment, great idea for Iberian ham

[redrok]

Hi fghuertas;

Very Nice Draw knife.

I see you made the back side flat.

I would suggest there should be a slight bow or curve in the backside for a couple of reasons.

1. There will be less friction with the wood when drawing. Makes cutting easier. Essentially there is less metal surface sliding on the wood.

2. The slight bow gives a bit more control to the cutting depth, especially with wood that tends to grab the edge.

redrok

[fghuertas]

Hi redrok,

I agree with making the back side flat, but I have really doubts about where I need to start the curve in the backside, can you help me?

Thanks in advance,

Fermin

[redrok]

Hi fghuertas;

There are definitely many opinions on the profile of the back side.
Here are a couple of threads that discuss this subject.
http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?218513-...
While I'm NOT an authority on draw knives, I have gleaned some knowledge on the blade profile.
1. It's clear to me that some like a small bevel on the back side. This gives more control of the depth of the cut.
2. I think that if a curved back side version is done the "hump" is closer to the cutting edge.
3. Some like the profile made with 2 strait sections with the peak closer to the cutting edge.

In any case I would think both methods have a back side "bevel angle" of only about 1 degree or so. I suspect that both methods are, essentially, equivalent. Just 2 methods to do the same thing. However, I suspect the curved version may wear longer.

Some like a much larger back side "bevel angle" but this is for special applications where more precision is required. Of course, with this larger angle it doesn't make much difference what the rest of the profile is.

Not to start another controversy, but, I see your knife uses a strait cutting edge. There are also edge profiles for different applications.

Not to mention the whole blade could have a bend in it.

Ya, I get it, there are an infinite number of possibilities.
Have fun! Keep up the good work.
redrok

[fghuertas]

woow, thank you very much

[deluges]

That's a very useful comment for anyone trying to replicate

[matosky.caleb]

Awesome project, it is clearly understandable and the english is fine. However, as you are looking for tips, a few things.

Tense is a challenging thing in english, and a few times you change it. For example, since you have already built the knife, you can say that you placed the handles instead of place the handles. Because this is past tense, it comes across as strange to native english speakers because you are speaking of the past in present tense. English speakers can easily understand what you mean, and it doesnt take away from what you created, but if you want to sound like you are a native speaker tense is important.

A few times you put in a weird gap between a sentence, and I do not know if this was simply an accident or intended. Usually an enter is only used between different topics, not midway through sentences.

Other than that, your english is great and so is the project, keep making new things and practicing english. If you use this language enough you will begin to write it as second nature with almost no mistakes.

Awesome project, and I am just trying to give helpful feedback. I could still understand everything and nothing was completely wrong, for a non-native speaker your language skills are very impressive.

[michaeljsw]

not dissimilar in terms of process!

[Jake_Makes]

Ok, you got me confused now :(

You say you use D2 tool steel. If that is correct your heat treating process is way off. D2 is an air hardening, not oil quench steel. It wouldn't have hardened at all with your method. Perhaps you meant 01?

[fghuertas]

First of all, sorry for my delay in answering you. I am very grateful for your comments because I am not a profesional forge and I just have started to work wih forge. I have learn wrongly so that´s the reason I made a mistake. I will dismantle the draft knife and I will do it properly. Your vocabulary is very helpful for me, many thanks!! It has been a pleasure to meet you.

[Jake_Makes]

You are very welcome! Make lots more :)

[corradini]

I agree. Here's a good procedure for heat treating D2 steel: http://htsteel.blogspot.com/p/d2-tool-steel.html

(I'm a knifemaker - I use oil quenching steels, occasionally O1 but mostly 52100, 80CrV2, and 1084.)

[fghuertas]

Thanks for your comments too.

[ClenseYourPallet]

Wonderful tool. Well documented and well done!

[fghuertas]

Thanks

[Mikhandmaker.]

Beautiful work no words to describe you talent my friend! Well done

[fghuertas]

Thanks always for your support my friend!!!