Dust Extraction/Collection Ducting Using European UPVC Soil Pipes
Intro: Dust Extraction/Collection Ducting Using European UPVC Soil Pipes
For me who leaves in Europe and especially in a country which is an island been a woodworker is not as easy as to our American fellow woodworkers.
Many accessories and supplies that I need most times are not available in my country, so I need to import them (that most times doubles the price), and those will be US dimensions that very from the Euro dimensions.
So I had to come-up with some ways to compensate for that difference that creates a problem especially when it comes to Dust Extraction/Collection Ducting Systems.
Many accessories and supplies that I need most times are not available in my country, so I need to import them (that most times doubles the price), and those will be US dimensions that very from the Euro dimensions.
So I had to come-up with some ways to compensate for that difference that creates a problem especially when it comes to Dust Extraction/Collection Ducting Systems.
STEP 1: Connecting the U.S With European System
Not everyone can afford to make their workshop ducting system with metal ducting, so most European woodworkers (especially hobbyists) use UPVC soil pipes for their shop‘s ducting system.
Like one of them, I faced the same problem connecting my shop machines which all have a 100mm ducting outlet with the European soil pipes which are 110mm.
So here are some tips and tricks on how I connected my ducting system and how I brought the two systems together.
Like one of them, I faced the same problem connecting my shop machines which all have a 100mm ducting outlet with the European soil pipes which are 110mm.
So here are some tips and tricks on how I connected my ducting system and how I brought the two systems together.
STEP 2: Problem 1 / Solved
The first problem I faced as I have said above is the difference in diameters. The European type soil pipe’s fittings come with male or female end connection so again you have another difference in the diameter, but this is what helps me connect the two.
I have found three materials that helped allot to have perfect fitting between the two systems:
The first is a 3mm Ordex non-slip mat which is quite thin but with an enormous grip. I love this product which I also use on my push blocks.
This product gives me a perfect fit between a 100mm OD (outside diameter) outlet to 110mm with 106.3mm ID (inside diameter) soil pipe which is consider as a male connection.
I cut it in 5cm strips and glue it with contact cement adhesive on the 100mm outlet, and the Euro pipe slips exactly right over it.
STEP 3: Problem 2 / Solved
The second material I use is a normal anti-slip (5mm) mat that I mostly use to hold the wood when I’m sanding or routing.
This product gives me a very tight fit when used on a female connection 110mm ID to a 100mm outlet. You can also glue it on or just let it loose and use a pipe clamp over it.
This product gives me a very tight fit when used on a female connection 110mm ID to a 100mm outlet. You can also glue it on or just let it loose and use a pipe clamp over it.
STEP 4: Problem 3 / Solved
The third material I used especially for cases when I connect a 110mm Euro pipe with a 100mm reducer (not exact 100mm) or a metallic outlet like my planer/jointer is the Heat Shrink Sleeve.
If the metallic outlet has some welding anomalies then I use its full length (100mm) to connect the two fittings - heat shrink and clamped (you need a heat gun for this process), if not, then I can cut it in half (50mm) and have two pieces out of it for connections.
Sometimes is such a tight fit that you don’t even need to heat shrink it, just use two pipe clamps for security.
Duct tape or aluminum tape is a good practice for sealing between the joints when needed to keep everything air tight.
If the metallic outlet has some welding anomalies then I use its full length (100mm) to connect the two fittings - heat shrink and clamped (you need a heat gun for this process), if not, then I can cut it in half (50mm) and have two pieces out of it for connections.
Sometimes is such a tight fit that you don’t even need to heat shrink it, just use two pipe clamps for security.
Duct tape or aluminum tape is a good practice for sealing between the joints when needed to keep everything air tight.
STEP 5: Connecting Your Machines to the System
Now in case you want to have a 100mm outlet, coming out from a 110mm soil pipe for connecting i.e. your flexible hose quick connectors, then a European Soil Pipe adapter is one solution... and I use quite a few of those.
Sometimes their fit is a bit loose, but there’s nothing to worry about that few rounds of tape (tape the ID) won’t fix.
Another way of doing this is to buy/order/import a 100mm tube, cut it in 100mm length pieces, use one of the above methods to connect it to the Euro pipe.
Sometimes their fit is a bit loose, but there’s nothing to worry about that few rounds of tape (tape the ID) won’t fix.
Another way of doing this is to buy/order/import a 100mm tube, cut it in 100mm length pieces, use one of the above methods to connect it to the Euro pipe.
STEP 6: Crossing the Workshop
When you mast have a floor cross over pipe/hose in your shop i.e. from the dust collector to your table saw, instead of having the risk to step on it and break the pipe or damage the flexible hose, you can build a strong step over to accommodate the pipe/hose and even your power cables.
STEP 7: Securing the Ducting System
Finally I use drain pipe metal straps to hold my ducting either on the ceiling, walls or dry walls.
It comes in a roll - you can cut them to length and it’s a very inexpensive solution instead of using suspension rings or wall clamps.
That’s my method/solution for connecting the U.S. with Europe.
Thanks for watching
Stelios Stavrinides AKA Steliart
It comes in a roll - you can cut them to length and it’s a very inexpensive solution instead of using suspension rings or wall clamps.
That’s my method/solution for connecting the U.S. with Europe.
Thanks for watching
Stelios Stavrinides AKA Steliart
9 Comments
Steliart - Stelios LA Stavrinides 10 years ago
Please read more carefully what i wrote. I did not say that I have imported my machine from the US (actually I have imported them from UK), what I wrote was that the machines have US standards outlets 100mm instead of 110mm that our European pipes sizes are.
This instructable is NOT about how to build your workshop ducting system, but is about how you can inexpensively connect the fittings of the two different measurements.
I hope is clear now.
Thanks
Stelios
vincent7520 10 years ago
Shame, shame on me.
Thank you for answering so kindly and not being angry at me !…
By the way, where in England did you buy your machines : I'm looking for a company I could trust in terms of delivery, handling spares, etc…
I'm sorry again.
Steliart - Stelios LA Stavrinides 10 years ago
As I said, I had to import all machinery because in my country (Cyprus) not only are very expensive, but also the models they offer are for hobbyist (very small), so it was better for me to buy everything from one place.
I chose Axminster Tool centre, I highly recommend them to you, have a look.
I would like to take this opportunity to answer a few more points of your comments.
I am not a professional woodworker but I am a serious amateur, so nothing is mandatory to me. Only when you have a shop and you are planning your ducting system, only then you will understand the real cost of the metal ducting - It is the best, and the easiest to fit for sure, but a very expensive way to go.
I have deeply researched the combustion and from what I found it cannot happen in a 4-5 inch pipe (that’s way it has never happened until now), it did happen in big industrial dust extraction ducting.
True, that a UPVC soil pipe will build-up some static but nothing to worry about. Personally to be on the safe side I copper wire my ducting inside and outside, but I believe what the experts (air flow and dust collection engineers) say, that it cannot happen in small diameter pipes - most probably the whole subject “exploded” from companies that wanted you to buy their metal ducting systems. But to be fair nothing wrong to be a on the safe side and wire them - That’s my recommendation.
To say the truth woodworking in America is on a completely different level than in Europe and even have different standards, some are better some not, i.e. a dado blade is not allowed on European table saws, so the blade arbor is very short, while in the US it’s allowed. Don’t know who made this decision but the fact is that 85% of table saw accidents come from a single blade table saw. I know that now they are pushing for a saw-stop safety to be mandatory, but because it’s a monopoly (for now) they have problems.
So What I am trying to say here is that not everything is done for yours or my safety, primarily is been done for profit.
From what I see, the US quality in some woodworking machinery (not hand tools) is superior from the European ones, when we in Euro have No.1 power tool brands like Festool, Dewalt, Bosch etc.
Ok, that was long but I took the opportunity to say a few things for future readers/visitors
Kingvoe 10 years ago
Steliart - Stelios LA Stavrinides 10 years ago
jkingsbury 10 years ago
Mindmapper1 10 years ago
On a slightly less serious note, the pipes that run across the floor should be covered as you have done but is far better and safer to have slope up and then down like speed ramp to make tripping less likely.
Steliart - Stelios LA Stavrinides 10 years ago
Steliart - Stelios LA Stavrinides 10 years ago
The instructable's intention was how to bring the two systems together, how to connect from one system to the other, not how to install ducting to a workshop, but nevertheless for those who feel much safer wiring their ducting system, just do it, nothing wrong with it.