Easy Cut 30 Degree Raised Bed

Intro: Easy Cut 30 Degree Raised Bed

Due to changes in our garden planning, we decided to recycle the wooden fences we had used for privacy which we now, no longer require. Instead of selling them we decided to build a raised bed from the recycled wood. I had kept the bulky and tough packaging foil from our garden house as I thought it might come in useful and I was right... 😀

When I thought about how to build a raised bed, my initial thoughts were to build a basic and simple 90-degree angled box but on consideration I decided how boring. So, I then decided how about a raised garden bed in the form of a ship. After some careful consideration I realized that the cuts required will all be 30 degrees.

From the wooden planks I removed all nails and screws found. In my case the planks had a size of approx. 180 cm x 14 cm. I then used the cross beams of my fence to stabilize the walls on the longer side of my raised bed construction. The posts are about 10 cm x 10 cm and 200 cm long. I cut them with a wily 30° degrees cut.

The overall size of the raised bed now is 260 cm long, 160 cm wide and about 85 cm high.

STEP 1: Cut Side Planks

I require long and short planks for the walls. The longer ones I will use for the left and right sides, the shorter ones for front and back. My old fence planks had rounded sides so I cut all the rounded edges off and then I cut about half of my wooden planks in half.

Using a 30-degree angled cut, I cut the top and bottom of my old fence planks so that they now fit snugly into my previously prepared posts cuts. Please make sure that the top and bottom cut angles match.

If you want an additional border at the top, please be sure the planks are long enough for the job! The border planks must be longer on all sides than the side walls! 

STEP 2: Build Support

Using the table saw, the 10 cm squared old fence support posts are cut in half using a 30-degree cut setting.

The length of the post depends on the width of your plank’s, times the desired rows.

If your planks have a width of 17 cm and you want to use 5 rows, then the post should be 17 x 5 = 85 cm high. Make sure that all planks have the same width! Also make sure that they are even. Otherwise, your posts might be too short (as was in my case 😞).

It is very important that the all the posts have the correct height if you want to additionally add a border to the top of the raised bed construction.

STEP 3: Assemble Shelves and Poles

I directly stapled the planks to the poles. While my wife held the pole in the correct position, I positioned the to be nailed plank and stapled them using a compressed air staple/nail gun. I would recommend doing this on a flat surface and not like myself – directly on the lawn.

Make sure everything is exactly squared off and as I decided to use long staple/nails I was able to put it all together quickly, however if you have parts not correctly squared off, it proved difficult to remove these staples from the wood. So be sure that all is aligned before stapling.

Maybe you should try and just use one screw, staple / nail for the first row. Tier up the planks to the desired height, by placing one on top of each other and fix the upper row with one nail. This will make sure that everything is correct and straight.

STEP 4: Add Plastic Foil

Staple the plastic to the inside of the bed. don't worry about protruded foil - you can easily cut it afterwards with a sharp knife.

STEP 5: Insert Poultry Netting

If your raised bed is placed on directly on the soil then you should put some poultry netting on the ground of the bed to keep voles away. Just put the wire netting on the ground, cut roughly to fit the size of the bed and staple it to the side walls.

STEP 6: Add Stabilization

You should add some stabilization to the long side of the raised bed. Just fix some planks upright in the middle of the bed and put two planks between.

STEP 7: Add Border

If you want to have an additional border then you will need some slim planks (I cut mine in half lengthwise) and measured the required length, also using a 30-degree cut. Staple or screw the border planks to the top of the raised bed.

STEP 8: Fill With Soil

The hardest part is to fill your raised bed... Fill your bed as advised in many to be found raised beds filling recommendations.

Have fun constructing and planting your own raised garden bed 🌼🌞

Comments

[robughblah1]

nice job! we did octogarden instead of a hexapod. keeps the deer out.

[Ennowulff]

wow. looks great! We don't fear no deer :D

[Don Barthel]

My experience with the liner is that UV light will break it down in a couple of years (the bit above the soil line), becoming particles in the soil. But I understand the need for a barrier to protect the wood to slow rot. I suggest using a barrier of latex paint, from the recycling center because the color is not so important, or even a wood waterproofing product that is not poisonous to the soil (i.e. not 'preservative').

[Ennowulff]

Yes, that might happen. I hope that the foil will last a bit longer. Thanks for the hint with the latex paint!

[charlessenf-gm]

Nice design. Good recycling! BTW I those fence slats are similar to those sold in the states (Nom 6x0.625x72") They make for easy-peasy bird houses/nesting boxes!

[kimzeuli]

What are the dimensions in inches and feet? We don’t use metric in the USA.

[Penolopy Bulnick]

Thanks for sharing!

You should consider entering the First Time Author Contest :)

[MrApple]

Great job and different profile to a common but delightful project.
Using an automatic nailer is a quick and great tool for finishing woodwork, etc - but it lacks strength. Please consider screws or spiral nails so your projects will last more than a few years before bulging and slipping out.
Again good looking project and congratulations on both of you working together. She is the one you have to please , so working together ensures her input throughout the project.
MrApple

[Ennowulff]

Thanks Penolopy! I will! ;)

[jgcschotty1107]

Thanks for the idea!