Everything You Need to Know About Tanning Animal Pelts.
Intro: Everything You Need to Know About Tanning Animal Pelts.
STEP 1: Things Needed
Nails or a staple gun to pin the pelt down to a peace of wood
Wood to nail your hide down to.
STEP 2: Fleshing the Pelt
Pin the pelt, fur side down, to a board with satples or small nails. Scrape away as much flesh from the inside of the pelt as possible with the blade of a knife. Take care not to cut holes in the skin. This process is known as fleshing the pelt. A good video showing this process is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EuZ5rXbllU
STEP 3: Salting the Pelt
A good video for this is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj9SNGaSshI
STEP 4: Soaking the Pelt
Soak the skin in several changes of cool water. Use a 5 gallon plastic garbage can for all soaking and tanning processes. Never use a metal container, as the salt and tanning chemicals can react with the metal. While a skin must be soaked until soft, do not allow it to stay wet longer than necessary because the hair may start to slip. Soaking time depends upon the condition of the skin; some skins require only about two hours while others need a much longer time.
When the skin begins to soften, lay it on a smooth board and begin working over the flesh side to break up the adhering tissue and fat. All dried skins have a shiny tight layer of tissue that must be broken up and entirely removed this can be done by alternately scraping and soaking the hide. Take care not to injure the true skin or expose the hair roots, especially on thin skins like squirrel and rabbit. When the skin is almost soft, put it in lukewarm water containing an ounce of baking soda or Borax per gallon. For greasy skins, adding a tablespoon of dishwashing soap per gallon of water may help clean the skin. Use a stick or somthing made from wood to stir the skin around in the solution. Doing this cleans the skin so it will accept the tanning better. Now you rinse the pelt in warm water and squese the water out DO NOT WRING THE PELT
STEP 5: Tanning Option 1 Alum and Borax Tanning
1 pound of borax
1 pound of ammonia alum or potassum alum
I had trouble finding the alum but i seen it on ebay but i had some leftover from a old crystal growing kit i got years ago.
STEP 6: Alum and Borax Tanning
Make a paste of 4 oz. of Borax and 4 oz. alum, with a little water added. Mix the paste well to remove any lumps.Coat the inside of the pelt with the Borax paste, using a knife to spread it to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Put on rubber gloves and work the paste with your fingers, rubbing it firmly into the skin. Leave the paste on the skin until the next day, then scrape it off and apply another coating. Repeat this procedure three more times, leaving the last coating in place for three to four days.
Scrape off the paste and rinse the pelt repeatedly under running water until there is no trace of Borax. Hang the pelt up and leave it until it is nearly dry.
Pin the slightly damp pelt to the board, fur side down. Rub a little neatsfoot oil into the the inside of the pelt. Keep doing this until the pelt is soft and supple. From time to time, remove the pelt from the board and stretch it vigorously in all directions. This helps your finished hide remain flexible and soft.
After this your done Tanning your hide
STEP 7: Tanning Option 2 Alcohol Turpentine Things Needed
large mouthed gallon jar
Wood alcohol (methanol paint remover) available at local hardware stores
Turpentine available at local hardware stores
Dishwashing soap
43 Comments
babygirl64 2 years ago
The laser guy 1 year ago
MaxC26 8 years ago
i find that i can do this a lot easier but it may not have the best outcome. i skin and flesh it. then i wash it in warm water and tack it to a board and salt it. then i take it of and shake it out and comb it. next i wok it by braking the fibers. this works for me but as i say, it may not have the best outcome
jvandeyacht 6 years ago
putting your hard skins in a big tumbler with hard balls and turning it for a few hours will work quite nicely too. If you can get a 55 gallon metal drum, then you can make a good tumbler for cow/cattle skins.
Ive make a metal drum into a bulk fish scaler by pounding hole into the drum and tumbling in water. making a base with some cheepo wheels from harbor freight and a big riding lawnmower belt with a 1/4 hp motor is not only cheep but works wonders.
forget the shoulder busting branch breaking method, process the skin and tumble it. it is how the commercial industry does it and for good reason.
juliacasebolt 3 years ago
IsaacW35 4 years ago
dneuj231944 5 years ago
JordanJ67 5 years ago
Hi if i do the tanning with the alum and borax will the pelt produced be waterproof or rather wont mold when exposed to the conditions of winter as a hat?
sheila.ortman 6 years ago
I have an old "goat" hide from my grandfather. It was "tanned" but not very well and is falling apart. Can it be "re-tanned" ???
Dadsturtlegurl 7 years ago
I'm trying to use this method on a raccoon to later mount as taxidermy. I was going to use the borax and alum solution. How many oz of each product do you think I'll need? I was trying to order the alum off amazon and I wondered how much I should purchase to try.
jvandeyacht 6 years ago
Taxidermy furs dont need to be clothing quality. If your just going to process it and then put it over a mount, you can treat it and then let it dry. it will be stiff as cardboard, but with taxadermy, it doesnt matter.
You cant figure out down to the ounce as to how much you need. no two animals will have the same square inches. Doing the alum way, I buy the items by the pound. Borax is by the box but a box will be way more than enough for raccoons, possums, fox's ect.
Work it by experimentation, make a bowls worth and test it, if it is way to much, then cut back a little the next batch you make.
When you get it processed, I usually put mine on a frame and stretch them to dry hard. You want to use the alum-borax to process the skin to keep it from rotting or getting eaten by bugs.
When you get your form, I will use some alcohol to wet the skin so I can work it, though not wet- soaking. just enough to soften the skin a little.
Once you folded and pinned your fur on the form to verify proper size form, then tie the fur over it to let it dry again. It will be stiff, but then you can work it off the form and continue your glue down and taxidermy process.
It is worth it to take taxidermy classes, even if only online. part of a good taxidermist is to find you own processes for skin-fur-feather-scale processing. Taxidermy is far more than just slopping a skin on a form.
The laser guy 7 years ago
BarbB41 7 years ago
jvandeyacht 6 years ago
I know this is old, but good for future....
If you want just the leather, your hide is fine. If you want a fur, then it is toast. The best thing to do is to always salt the heck out of it, then roll it up and stick in freezer until you can process it. I usually roll mine into burlap so the freezer can help dry it by way of evaporation. if it is in a bag, it cant get dry very well while frozen.
I find commercial products to be easiest as they have everything there and instructions with better pictures to follow than this .. rehashed . not much for experience . ible. Personally, unless you did the work and can show it, you shouldn't be posting an ible. taking info you took from other sources and rehashing it out is not the point of this website... just my opinion.
The turpentine way works quite well for small furs. Mine usually come out stiff. The author eluded to parts of the finish work on furs but from lack of doing it, never finished this ible.
Once you have processed your furs, you put them in a big drum, or in my case, a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, as well as sawdust, some rubber / plastic dryer balls and tumble them for an hour for small or 2 hours for larger furs. The point of this is to beat up the skin and make the whole thing very soft and workable. I use 2-1 by volume of sawdust to fur skins. 4 balls per square foot of fur.
after tumbling, I will take out the furs and check them. if the skin is soft enough for my needs, then it is done, if not, it goes back in for another half hour at a time until complete.
then you just shake off the dust, vacuum it till nice and clean. You can wash them if you choose, but make sure you dry them completely as fast as you can, the skin is now tanned, but it can still rot if wet for too long, or it will/can dry hard.
Do your own research or read the instructions from a commercial package. This ible is almost useless and will leave you with a rotting, stinky, chemically scary mess. It is not complete enough to properly process a fur.
Sorry if I offended anyone - truth hurts.
LucilleI1 7 years ago
I have 2 caribou hides I just fleshed out & laid flat to dry; can I soak and salt them to do a processing? And which process would be best to use. Or will I just be experimenting on them?
The laser guy 6 years ago
dallasfrog 7 years ago
I am a deer hunter and we have always thrown away the pelts after skinning. I want to make buckskin out of them instead. How do I need to prepare the pelt at camp until I can get it home (about 5 days)? I don't want to come home with ruined pelts. thanks
The laser guy 7 years ago
dallasfrog 7 years ago
Follow up questions: I have heard mixed reviews about using iodized salt versus noniodized salt. I can buy iodized salt in bulk pretty easily. Not so easy to find noniodized salt in Dallas. What is your take on the subject? AND, about how much salt will I need to salt one typical sized deer?
Thanks
The laser guy 7 years ago