Fix That Exhaust Leak; Make NEW Exhaust Gaskets at TechShop!
Intro: Fix That Exhaust Leak; Make NEW Exhaust Gaskets at TechShop!
Finding Land Rover parts *can* be an enjoyable experience...in an alternate universe; in this one, its a PITA...so, lets just make them ourselves.
I have made aluminum and copper exhaust gaskets with very effective results in the past. Back then it was a pretty manual process (i.e. Time Consuming); but, I was broke, so it worked. Now, I have TechShop Menlo Park...this steps up my game.
These gaskets are called "exhaust flange gaskets" and they seal the primary pipe to the exhaust manifold on a Land Rover Discovery 1 (1989-1998). I bet your car or truck has something similar to them.
Lets get started!
I have made aluminum and copper exhaust gaskets with very effective results in the past. Back then it was a pretty manual process (i.e. Time Consuming); but, I was broke, so it worked. Now, I have TechShop Menlo Park...this steps up my game.
These gaskets are called "exhaust flange gaskets" and they seal the primary pipe to the exhaust manifold on a Land Rover Discovery 1 (1989-1998). I bet your car or truck has something similar to them.
Lets get started!
STEP 1: Tools & Materials
This is a really simple process; all you need are the following:
Metal Bandsaw
Rotary Punch (Rotex)
Flat File
Round File
Scribe (anything narrow and sharp will work, like a nail)
The old gasket (or whats left of it)
Metal (aluminum or copper of the appropriate size)
Metal Bandsaw
Rotary Punch (Rotex)
Flat File
Round File
Scribe (anything narrow and sharp will work, like a nail)
The old gasket (or whats left of it)
Metal (aluminum or copper of the appropriate size)
STEP 2: Scribe
SCRIBE:
Lay your old gasket on top of the new material (I use untempered, pure aluminum when possible).
Pressing firmly on your old gasket, scribe an outline of it onto the material.
Lay your old gasket on top of the new material (I use untempered, pure aluminum when possible).
Pressing firmly on your old gasket, scribe an outline of it onto the material.
STEP 3: Punch (POW!)
PUNCH:
Using the rotary punch, select the appropriate sized punch dies for your application (don't forget to match the top and bottom!), punch out the holes.
Note:If you need to punch a hole larger than the die set on the rotary punch, you can use the largest punch to remove the material until the desired size is obtained (I needed to make the holes slightly larger than one die but smaller than the next, so it took a few extra operations for me).
Using the rotary punch, select the appropriate sized punch dies for your application (don't forget to match the top and bottom!), punch out the holes.
Note:If you need to punch a hole larger than the die set on the rotary punch, you can use the largest punch to remove the material until the desired size is obtained (I needed to make the holes slightly larger than one die but smaller than the next, so it took a few extra operations for me).
STEP 4: CUT!
CUT:
Using the bandsaw, cut your outline... do not try to follow the path exactly (its metal, not foam :-), instead, make multiple slices to obtain cut pathways that will deliver your desired outline.
Using the bandsaw, cut your outline... do not try to follow the path exactly (its metal, not foam :-), instead, make multiple slices to obtain cut pathways that will deliver your desired outline.
STEP 5: FILE
FILE:
Clean the edges with a file; I recommend a half-round or a rats-tail file for the inner curved parts.
You may need to use a hammer to flatten the material a bit, depending upon the shape and type of material you are working with.
There you have it! :-)
Clean the edges with a file; I recommend a half-round or a rats-tail file for the inner curved parts.
You may need to use a hammer to flatten the material a bit, depending upon the shape and type of material you are working with.
There you have it! :-)
14 Comments
Clay42 12 years ago
On those other applications; a couple of guys at TechShop Menlo Park made a pewter casting mold out of High Temp RTV...and made wine bottle stoppers with it! Very cool (or rather: hot)! I think they were able to make about 6-8 castings before the HTRTV was burned out :-)
Thanks for the comment :-)
wolfy_9005 8 years ago
I used high-temp RTV for the catback to y-piece(not really a Y-piece, since it's duals but you get the idea). The stuff in Aus is rated for 350C tops, I assume degree figures above are in F. For this area, it seems to work well and holds. For areas closer, I'd be willing to guess it won't last for a terribly long time.
Hopefully this method will solve my gasket problem, since I can't seem to find any that fit the part. Doesn't help when manufacturers don't include any markings on their product....
pfred2 12 years ago
rudolphdiesel 11 years ago
pfred2 11 years ago
Clay42 11 years ago
I know for a fact: the turbo on my diesel rover can hit 1400 degrees (I never run it above 1050! :-)... High temp RTV does not live long and prosper in that environment, but you are welcome to try :-))
pfred2 11 years ago
rudolphdiesel 11 years ago
pfred2 11 years ago
rudolphdiesel 11 years ago
Don't know which engine you have but your probably in diesel territory with that "shave' Perhaps a typo on the 3/8" claim? Most guys will deck block .020' maybe.
Where did you obtain the new con rods to accommodate such a radical milling? Anyway nice Volvo.
rudolphdiesel 11 years ago
This guy milled .020 and bumped up 1 point. .375' mill about 9 points...diesel comp territory
I like math..
Clay42 11 years ago
Chill.
There are different tactics to *similar* challenges. Having used RTV to seal exhaust flanges in the past, with mixed results, I do not recommend the method for high heat and pressure turbocharged environments. If it works for PFred, then more power to him. For sure: there is *NOTHING* wrong with making proper gaskets either :-) This Instructable is about those gaskets. I recommend PFred writes up a "how to make a proper RTV Exhaust Flange Gasket" Instructable :-) I will gladly attempt to learn from it.
That said; comment flames are petty, shallow, and stupid... The comments in the Instructableverse seem to be intended for Q&A, improvements, enhancements, safety, and recommendations... not flames and petty ridicule.
Notice the "Be Nice" comment policy, right there below your comment editing window?
pfred2 11 years ago
rudolphdiesel 11 years ago