Fix Your Bike. Grease Your Bearings and Change Your Freewheel.
Intro: Fix Your Bike. Grease Your Bearings and Change Your Freewheel.
Most people don't realize this, but your bike needs maintenance. Your axle bearings needs to be cleaned and repacked with grease every 500 miles (100 on a mountain bike).
This instructable shows how to repack your axle bearings and install a new freewheel body (if you need one).
This instructable shows how to repack your axle bearings and install a new freewheel body (if you need one).
STEP 1: Remove the Wheel From Your Bike.
If you don't know how to do this much already, this may be too big a job for you at this point.
STEP 2: Remove the Quick Release Skewer.
Remove the quick-release skewer from the axle. Take care not to lose those tiny springs.
STEP 3: Remove the Cassette
You'll need a special tool to remove the cassette from the hub. $6 at a bike shop. You'll also need a wrench to turn the tool.
STEP 4: Remove the Cassette...cont.
Finally you'll need a chain whip or cog holder to hold the sprockets in place while you unscrew the cassette retaining nut. Once removed, the cog stack will slde off the freewheel body effortlessly.
STEP 5: Remove the Axle
Here is the freewheel body and axle in place.
First remove the jam-nut and washer from the axle then remove the bearing cone nut. This holds the bearings in place.
First remove the jam-nut and washer from the axle then remove the bearing cone nut. This holds the bearings in place.
STEP 6: Remove the Bearings
See the bearings within. Remove the bearings and clean everything till it is absolutely spotless. Aerosol brake parts cleaner works very well for this and only costs $1.99 at your local auto parts store.
STEP 7: Remove Old Freewheel Body
If you're just greasing your bearings, SKIP THIS STEP!
Insert appropriate sized allen wrench into freewheel body and unscrew. Set aside the old freewheel body and place the retaining bolt with all the other stuff you need to clean.
Insert appropriate sized allen wrench into freewheel body and unscrew. Set aside the old freewheel body and place the retaining bolt with all the other stuff you need to clean.
STEP 8: Clean Everything.
Clean the cogs, axle, cone nuts, washers, jam-nuts and especially the interior of the bearing cups in the hub. If you see any residue of any kind, you need to clean some more.
STEP 9: Replace Freewheel Body...cont.
Unwrap the new part. View the instructions and take whatever action you see fit. Personally, I found the instructions insulting. They essentially said: "Be sure to install the part correctly." in 8 different languages, but didn't say exactly HOW to do it.
STEP 10: Installing the New Freewheel Body.
I recommend Marine Axle Bearing Grease for your bearings. It's for boat trailers and is available cheap at your local auto parts store.
Apply a generous coating of grease to all the mating surfaces like the steel washer between the freewheel body and the hub and the freewheel locking bolt.
Replace the freewheel body and tighten the locking bolt.
Apply a generous coating of grease to all the mating surfaces like the steel washer between the freewheel body and the hub and the freewheel locking bolt.
Replace the freewheel body and tighten the locking bolt.
STEP 11: Re-installing the Axle.
Load up the bearing races with generous helpings of marine axle grease. Load both sides with grease before you replace the bearings. The grease will hold the bearings in place.
STEP 12: Insert the Axle.
Load the bearings into the brake side first and insert the axle. The axle will help hold the bearings in place. On the opposite side, place the axle part way into the hub and load the bearings into the cup area. Once all the bearings are in, push the axle the rest of the way in. Next replace the cone nut that holds the bearings in place.
Finally, tighten the cone nut until you feel some binding then back off the tension until the wheel spins freely with no binding or rough feeling. Finally add the washer and jam-nut and tighten it all down. If it starts binding, loosen it up a little.
Finally, tighten the cone nut until you feel some binding then back off the tension until the wheel spins freely with no binding or rough feeling. Finally add the washer and jam-nut and tighten it all down. If it starts binding, loosen it up a little.
STEP 13: Replace the Cog Stack.
Notice there is one small groove on the freewheel body. There is a corresponding slot in the cog stack. This ensures that the cog stack can only go on one way. Replace the cog locking nut.
STEP 14: Re-install the Wheel.
Replace the quick release skewer. Note that the springs are cone-shaped. The big end faces away from the hub.
You're now ready top replace the wheel on the bike.
You're now ready top replace the wheel on the bike.
60 Comments
LukeB81 5 years ago
How do you know it needs a new freewheel assembly?
Marsh 5 years ago
If it doesn't work the way it should, that's a pretty good indicator.
BrandonT117 5 years ago
I want to say thank you for sharing the guide above – a very helpful step by step I’ve found and its made my life a lot easier. Keep sharing!
SydT 8 years ago
On my bike somehow the bearing was shredded to pieces and I noticed it when I was riding and the bearing suddenly lost grip... Can you please reference me to some sources to get a new one? This would be greatly appreciated!
Bryce Nesbitt 7 years ago
Any bicycle store can supply a new bearing. Check to make sure the races are not too pitted or damaged.
jsadler1 9 years ago
I've been using white, lithium, marine, grease and it seems to work nicely. It claims to be impervious to water. I wonder if such greases create any drag that thinner greases might not create. So far i'm happy with the white grease.
RobertT9 9 years ago
In step two the springs you are talking about, are they hard to re-assemble?
Marsh 9 years ago
sdeshaies 11 years ago
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.oko.okocalc&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwyLDEsImNvbS5va28ub2tvY2FsYyJd
jtmax24 11 years ago
jorgechoy 11 years ago
The instructions are great. I am wondering whether you can provide a list of recommended tools such as type of spanners and so on.
Looking forward to hearing from youâ¦..
Jorge
pchretien 12 years ago
coolpizzadude 15 years ago
mcflyalright 14 years ago
struckbyanarrow 12 years ago
zilcho 13 years ago
Bearclaw_Michael 15 years ago
sharlston 13 years ago
Bearclaw_Michael 13 years ago
Sorry I didn't get back with you sooner but I have been on vacation and that included staying away from the computer.
It was really just a matter of pulling out the axle bolt, then I drilled a hole in the hub housing and threaded it with a tap for the grease fitting.
If there is a trick it's getting in between the spokes with the drill, depending on your wheel and your drill you might need to use a short drill bit or even a right angle drill made for tight spots.
Other than that it is pretty simple and it really does make a big difference.
Thanks for asking
sharlston 13 years ago