Gas Can Speakers

by txje

100K87942

Intro: Gas Can Speakers

Some novel garage speakers using plastic gas cans and a 2-way speaker kit. Standard 5L/1.25gal gas cans fit a 2-way 6.5" woofer/tweeter kit perfectly. As an added bonus, the pour spout serves to release pressure in the speaker can. You can get everything you need for ~$69 from Amazon and/or Home Depot.

STEP 1: Materials

  1. Pyle 6.5" 400-watt 2-way custom component system kit (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007LCLPE/)
  2. 2x Scepter 5L/1.25G red gas can (I found these at Home Depot ~$11/ea)
  3. 2x Speaker terminal set (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PQ1B5K/)

Total: $69

If you don't have anything to plug the speakers into, here's my approximate setup:

  1. Any 2+-way amp, I used a Pyle PFA400U (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071HZ5RI/). I don't necessarily recommend it as it doesn't have a standard AUX port or an FM tuner, but it does put out plenty of power to drive both speakers.
  2. Speaker wire (I used 12-guage, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XPSH70/)
  3. Banana plugs OPTIONAL (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BKW2K2/)

Additional: ~$70

STEP 2: Electrical Dry-Run

I wired up the speaker kit components before delving into the enclosure. You might want to do the same to see how everything will fit together. The Pyle kit comes with everything you'll need except the terminals, including the +/- wire. Just wire the woofer, tweeter, and terminals to the corresponding +/- pins on the crossover. Test it out with the amp/stereo you'll be using. You may initially feel that the speaker isn't loud enough, depending on your amp of choice, but I promise when you get everything in the can and two of them side-by-side, it will be more than satisfactory.

STEP 3: Cut Holes

We need to cut holes in the can for the woofer and tweeter. The Pyle kit comes with a template for the woofer cutout which I found to be completely inaccurate. What I recommend is to cut out the template circle, place it centered on the flat side of the gas can, and draw a circle about a 1/2 cm outside the circle so that your final diameter is a full centimeter wider than the template.

For the tweeter hole, place the tweeter's flush-mount rim on the corner notch and trace a rough circle. The Pyle kit's tweeters break into three pieces (and a spring). They can sometimes be stubborn, but just go ahead and yank it apart.

For both circles, I drilled a couple adjacent holes on the inside of the circle to give me enough space to get the saw in and cut all the way around. I used a cheap metal hack saw which worked rather well. If you have a reciprocating saw or a jigsaw, kudos to you - you may get this done faster. The woofer hole should be the right size and will need little extra attention. For the tweeter hole you'll probably want to test-fit the flush-mount flange repeatedly as you refine the hole, cutting it wider as needed.

STEP 4: Terminal Ports and Installation

You can have the terminal ports stick off in any direction you like. You can really just have the +/- wires hang out the pour spout, but I think it looks really nice with the terminal pins on the side. On the first speaker I just drilled adjacent holes and stuck the terminal pins through. Attach the nut and locking washers to the other side, sandwiching the +/- wires between the locking washers on the corresponding terminal.

About now we can start sticking components in the can. Stick the crossover toward the back of the bottom of the can using one of the round double-sided sticky pads that came with the kit. Snap the tweeter and backing (with spring) into the flush-mount rim from the back. Sometimes the tweeter may tend to pop in or the rim out of the hole we drilled, so it won't hurt anything to duct-tape it to the inside of the can.

Lastly, we cram all of the loose/extra wire into the can and mount the woofer. For the woofer attachment holes, place the speaker and black rim where you want them, then poke an awl or drill bit through the holes to mark them on the can. You may drill them out if you like but I found I could just hand-screw the speaker on without pilot holes. The can's plastic is sturdy enough that you don't need anything to back the screws, but you may try the metal clips that come in the Pyle kit if you feel so inclined.

STEP 5: Finishing Up

Pop on the speaker grill and plug it in! If you didn't have an audio system to use the speakers with beforehand, setting up the amp and speaker wire (and banana plugs) should be self-explanatory. Definitely Google how to straight-mount the banana plugs on the speaker wire.

Repeat for the second speaker. I used the other side of the gas can so that they make a nice symmetrical set. For the second speaker, I tried to use the little black mounting plates that came with the terminals to make them a little sturdier. I recommend it, just make sure the pilot holes are perfectly straight or the front and back plates will not line up.

Now don't expect incredible audiophile sound out of these, but for the untrained ear like mine, they produce great sound. If you hear any rattling, just double-check that everything is securely attached. The terminal plugs will rattle a bit if not screwed all the way down. You can also optionally stuff the can with normal polyfill through the pour spout to round out the sound a bit.

37 Comments

Fungyatding 8 years ago

look nice in red and really like the handle

mmo8we 9 years ago

How loud are these?

fonguler 9 years ago

adding ice/water shield adhesive backed roofing membrane to the inner surfaces will add mass, stiffness and damping---,I have used it to great effect on various speaker.quick and easy and very dense.

askthecableguy 10 years ago

great idea. Do you have any vibration issues with using gas cans. what else you use if the gas cans didn't come to you?

Vinsu 10 years ago

Great idea! Maybe you could add bass response and general sturdiness by laminating some fiberglass inside the boxes. That would also decrease the plastic-kind-of-sound you may be experiencing without adding too much weight.

Here's an excellent instructable about fiberglass that could make your great speakers even more awesome!

https://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-Fiberglass-...

josefski 10 years ago

I was thinking the same thing! They'd sound super duper awesome with something to dampen the insides and make the acoustic chamber more rigid.

captainserious 10 years ago

These are great looking. Add a battery in one and the amp in the other and go mobile!

iamunique127 10 years ago

Great idea. These will make great portable speakers. I'm thinking if I include an amp with an AUX plug I can then plug my iPod into it.

Thanks

muddog15 10 years ago

Gonna make one for bass guitar.

sedmonds 10 years ago

So how do you power the amp?

Dr. Science 10 years ago

I tried the same trick with some styrofoam "cooler" boxes, the kind they ship meds that needs to stay cold via FedEx and they worked pretty good too.

Tex Arcana 10 years ago

My neighbor across the street builds these for fun, full-featured, and AC/DC power.

rnalawansa 10 years ago

Cool project. How do they sound? Plastic usually isn't the best for speaker housings

Tex Arcana 10 years ago

Could spray on some cyanoacrilate foam inside to stiffen the plastic and insulate the enclosures.
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