Introduction: Geberit Toilet Flush Repair
This instructable is about fixing a specific symptom (described below) on a Geberit in-wall toilet flush with two separate buttons for flushing with a smaller or larger amount of water. The specific flush in use has a bell with part number 240.622.00.1.
I hope that the instructions provided, here, may also apply to other similar parts from the same or other manufacturers. However, please apply common maker sense, before trying them. Also please understand that I will probably be unable to answer any questions on any other make of toilet flush.
- You have a Geberit in-wall toilet flush with separate buttons for flushing with a small or a large amount of water.
- Eventually, the button for the small amount of water stops working, while the button for the large amount of water continues to work.
- The "small" button may initially work some of the time.
- It may also "get stuck" some of the time, resulting in an unstopping flush.
One or both of two small latches on the bell have broken. We'll replace them using some very simple 3D-printed (or handcrafted) parts. No need to replace the entire bell.
Step 1: Remove the Outer Cover
To remove the outer cover gently push upwards from below, then tilt the upper edge away from the wall.
Your make of cover may differ, and possibly so does the fixation mechanism. Try pushing and prying gently, from all sides.
Step 2: Remove the Outer Frame
Pull out the blue fixation latches (one up, one down). Turn the white plastic bolts inwards, then pull them out. Remove the frame. The second picture shows the right bolt loosened, while the left one is still in place.
Step 3: Take of the Inner Lid
This is easy, really. Remove the white lid.
Step 4: Remove Mounting Bracket
Remove the mounting bracket by pressing on the latch, and pulling upwards, gently.
Step 5: Extract the Bell
- Turn off the water supply (if you haven't, already). In my case, there is a convenient valve (top left, blue) for this purpose inside the tank.
- Extract the bell from the tank. It is fixed on the backside using a gray holder, which you will have to take off, first. The biggest obstacle will be getting it out of the access hole, with the limited space you have. Try various angles, and eventually, you will succeed. (Somehow it got in, after all, so it can also get out).
Step 6: Find the Fault
Pushing the "large" button lifts the central cylinder, while pushing the "small" button lifts an assembly mounted around that cylinder. The catch is that this outer assembly is supposed to also raise the inner cylinder, but a only by a little bit.
Note the small rim on the inner cylinder (if you cannot see, what I'm talking about, click on the image, and mouse over to see annotations)? This is where the the inner cylinder is supposed to be lifted. Note the small latch that does the lifting? No? Well, that's because it is gone. A second latch is supposed to be present on the other side. It's probably broken, as well.
Please note that the small rusty hole (barely visible on the image) is not a part of the bell. It's a leftover from a previous, unsuccessful attempt at fixing the problem.
Step 7: Add Replacements for the Broken Latches
The latches are not too difficult to replace, and perhaps you'll have your own solution in a matter of minutes. However, when designing your own fix, be warned that the rim on the inner cylinder must stay above the top of the outer assembly. Having it sink in even a few millimeters may result in an non-stop flush. You also don't want to lift it too far up while at rest, else the bell may fail to seal the flush, completely. You want the rim on the inner cylinder to be aligned very closely to the top of the outer cylinder.
Below, you'll find two different STL models, and a freecad file for the replacement clips I used. These are simply slid onto the pastic from above.
The first variant of the 3D model has small notches. These cramp into the holes that I had already drilled into the white plastic on each side, in an earlier unsuccessful attempt to fix teh problem. These notches will hold the repair pieces in place really tight. If you prefer not to drill any holes, use the other variant of the STL, instead, and the latches will probably still hold.
Depending on exactly where the original latches have broken off, their leftover may still be a millimeters or two in the way of where you're sliding on the clip. You may have to saw off / file off a tiny bit from the inner leg, to make sure the replacement clip is sitting tight on the top of the outer cylinder.
If you don't have access to a 3D printer, consider just filing / sawing something out of a small bit of plastic, referring to the pictures above. Or feel free to email me, and I can send you a pair of clips for a small donation and postage.
Step 8: Reassemble and Flush
Re-assembling your toilet flush is simply the reverse of the disassembly. Make sure to turn on the water, again, before closing everything, and I hope your flush is working flawlessly again, now.
If this instructable has helped to save you time and money, consider sending me a small donation via paypal: email@example.com . Thanks!
1 Person Made This Project!
- jamesarjones made it!
1 year ago on Step 5
Can’t get the Bell out no matter what angle we try. Played with it for more than hour, no luck.
Reply 1 year ago
Yes, this can be tricky. But I can assure you, the bell got in this way, it can go out that way. Keep in mind that the bell consists of an inner and an outer cylinder, and can thus extend in length. Maybe that is happening while you are trying to extract it, so perhaps you can try to get a grip on the lower part. Also, you can careful bend / angle the blue parts a little bit (in theory they can be taken off, entirely, but I never looked into how exactly that is done). That may gain you another inch or two. Good luck!
2 years ago
Wonderful. It worked like a charm :)
2 years ago on Step 8
Thanks Thomas, this saved me from buying a new flush. Fortunately I have 3D printer.
Reply 2 years ago
Great! Thanks for the feedback!