Hacking the Cuisinart SupremeGrind for Espresso
Intro: Hacking the Cuisinart SupremeGrind for Espresso
The Cuisinart SupremeGrind is one of the least-expensive burr coffee grinders. In fact, it can be had refurbished on Amazon for under $20 (DBM-8 model), or twice that for the newer-but-nearly-indistinguishable CCM-16FR model. The major problem with the machine is that, even at its finest, it's unable to produce an espresso grind.
However, it's actually a rather trivial operation to shim up the stationary burr to shift the grind in a finer direction.
Don't get me wrong. If you've got a great espresso machine, don't skimp here: get a Jolly or a Rocky or something like that. But if you were considering a Gaggia, a Baratza, or other low-end espresso grinder, give this a whirl: once modified, it easily compares with that class of grinder.
However, it's actually a rather trivial operation to shim up the stationary burr to shift the grind in a finer direction.
Don't get me wrong. If you've got a great espresso machine, don't skimp here: get a Jolly or a Rocky or something like that. But if you were considering a Gaggia, a Baratza, or other low-end espresso grinder, give this a whirl: once modified, it easily compares with that class of grinder.
STEP 1: Remove the Stationary Burr.
Using a Phillips-head screwdriver, remove the three screws holding the stationary burr to the bean hopper outlet. With a bristle brush (I use cheap natural bristle artist's brushes from BigLots for such cleanup chores), clean both the burr and the hopper outlet of all grounds.
STEP 2: Cut the Shims.
Place the burr mounting face down on a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil (20 micron thickness), and with a hobby scalpel, carefully score â and then cut through â the foil around the outside and inside edges of the burr.
You'll probably need between two and ten shims, depending on your machine. The Supreme Grind isn't as precision-manufactured as some, so your finest grind will be somewhat finer or coarser than that of other machines: you may need more or fewer shims than I did.
You'll probably need between two and ten shims, depending on your machine. The Supreme Grind isn't as precision-manufactured as some, so your finest grind will be somewhat finer or coarser than that of other machines: you may need more or fewer shims than I did.
STEP 3: Fit the Shims to the Machine.
Carefully stack the shims in the stationary burr mounting well, with all holes aligned with the screw posts. You can carefully jiggle them into perfect alignment once the burr is in place and you're putting the first screw in, but do try to make sure they're not grossly misaligned.
Be sure to both tighten the burr completely (though be very careful not to strip the screw-post threads), and ensure that the shims are not wrinkled or positioned in any way that could cause vertical misalignment of the burrs.
Be sure to both tighten the burr completely (though be very careful not to strip the screw-post threads), and ensure that the shims are not wrinkled or positioned in any way that could cause vertical misalignment of the burrs.
STEP 4: Check the Grind.
You'll have to repeat steps three and four several times to get it right. After putting a couple shims in, dial the grinder all the way down to the finest grind. If the burrs are not touching (that would definitely be a Bad Thing), depress the safety and let 'er rip.
The burrs should not grind against each other: a sign of poor alignment. If they do, but they didn't touch when the machine was off, you have some wrinkles or inconsistencies in your shims, making the stationary burr higher on one side than the other.
If they're not yet as close together as possible without touching, you can add another shim or two.
Once you've got the grinder shimmed to the point that the finest setting nearly touches the burrs together, you're done. Congratulations. You've just made a decent espresso grinder on the cheap! Of course, it's nowhere near Jolly or Rocky quality, but it'll put up a good front next to a Gaggia or Baratza.
The burrs should not grind against each other: a sign of poor alignment. If they do, but they didn't touch when the machine was off, you have some wrinkles or inconsistencies in your shims, making the stationary burr higher on one side than the other.
If they're not yet as close together as possible without touching, you can add another shim or two.
Once you've got the grinder shimmed to the point that the finest setting nearly touches the burrs together, you're done. Congratulations. You've just made a decent espresso grinder on the cheap! Of course, it's nowhere near Jolly or Rocky quality, but it'll put up a good front next to a Gaggia or Baratza.
24 Comments
Doc B. 13 years ago
madisonone 3 years ago
MathieuL58 5 years ago
acheide 5 years ago
This is the last step in my quest to drink personalized coffee on a budget. I just adjusted the plates in my $40 Black and Decker Grinder from .023" gap to about .002". It now grinds coffee roasted in a Swissmaar Alpenrὄst $27.50 at auction, for brewing in a Saeco Via Veneta.
Thanks.
retrorockit 5 years ago
See the update to the I made it I posted.
retrorockit 5 years ago
I tested this mod with a Kruve 12 calibrated coffee sifter kit
https://www.kruveinc.com/products/kruve-sifter-twe...
against a Handground precision manual coffee grinder.
https://handground.com/
It puts some numbers on what this mod does and doesn't do, and how to get the most out of it.
gaslantern 7 years ago
Well, I shimmed the stationary burr using a small washer under each screw, and although I was able to get the burrs very close together, the grind is still coarse (although finer than before). Are the burrs just dull?
retrorockit 8 years ago
I wonder if it would be possible to use a feeler gauge to measure the original gap, and them someone provide a measurement of a modified machine so the shim could be calculated. Then you could measure various washers etc. to see what's appropriate for each machine.
haugenka 8 years ago
This is exactly the fix I needed. Thank you, thank you. Awesome hack!
Bigwaveohs 8 years ago
Try Nashua 324A Cold Weather metal tape. It's thick and has an adhesive back so it's very easy to apply and cut with a hobby knife. One layer and I have 0.0015" between the burrs.
sxiang 8 years ago
Not_Tasha 8 years ago
rbarbarita 10 years ago
Quad89 10 years ago
studiogrynn 11 years ago
hhmm89 11 years ago
ivan_kz 13 years ago
scottangell 14 years ago
scottangell 14 years ago
civilmonkey 14 years ago