Welcome to Ganbatte Cosplay, the world where no one is judged on what they make, as long as they do their best! Let’s make a fun, easy cosplay together and build your sewing skills while we’re at it.

Please note that pattern pieces are available as a PDF download.

Step 1: Materials

This is what I call a ‘novice’ pattern, so I’ll assume that you have basic knowledge, like how to backstitch, zig-zag stitch, and leave a seam allowance, but I’ll try to walk you through the more difficult parts. If you run into trouble, come and visit us on Youtube for my tutorial videos: search ‘Ganbatte Cosplay’ and you‘ll find me.

Let’s talk about materials. Fabric usually comes in one of two widths: 45in/114cm or 60in/153cm. When you find your fabric, take a note of the width and then get the corresponding amount according to the chart below.

Material required for 45in/114cm wide and 60in/153cm wide fabrics:

yd/m---------------XS----------S--------------M-----------L------------XL

Tunic/Hat

45/114 wide-----1.5/1.4-----1.5/1.4------2/2---------2/2--------2/2

60/153 wide-----1.3/1.25---1.3/1.25----1.5/1.4----1.5/1.4----2/2

Shirt

45/114 wide------2.25/2------2.25/2------2.5/2.3---2.5/2.3----3/2.75

60/153 wide------1.5/1.4 ------------------------------------------>1.5/1.4

Leggings (allow extra yardage for one-way stretch fabric)

45/114 wide-----1.5/1.4 -------------------------------------------> 1.5/1.4

60/153 wide----1.25/1.15---------------------------------------->1.25/1.15

Boots/Belt

45/114 wide-----0.75/0.7 ----------------------------------------->0.75/0.7

60/153 wide-----0.5/0.5 -------------------------------------------->0.5/0.5

Sensei Says: wash fabric before you cut into it!

Other materials: 0.75in (3cm) wide elastic (in a length you can comfortably fit around your waist), 20in (51cm) of 0.75 (3cm) wide black elastic for boot covers, 4in (10cm) Velcro, 6in (15cm) square of yellow craft foam, 6in (15cm) of brown craft foam, brown shoes or boots, measuring tape, Fray Check, pencil for marking, straight pins, large safety pin, thread, bobbins.

My recommendations for your materials:

Bright green fabric for tunic - choose a poplin or broadcloth, a sturdy fabric that doesn’t cling.

Lime green fabric for shirt - choose a cotton blend or knit, something soft and breathable.

White fabric for leggings - choose a jersey knit or Lycra blend, something with a lot of stretch. The challenge is finding a thick, stretchy white fabric that is not completely see-through.

Brown pleather or vinyl - most sewing machines can handle pleather/vinyl just fine if you use a heavy needle (denim or leather needle) and go slow. You can also use real leather if it is thin enough for your machine. Thick elastic (black or brown) for boot covers is only needed if the boot covers need to be removable. Otherwise, you can glue the covers directly onto your boots.

Thick elastic for waistband on pants - choose cotton elastic (sometimes known as swimwear elastic) for a softer, more comfortable waistband.

Brown boots/shoes - choose a comfortable pair in a color that matches your pleather. I recommend shopping at a thrift store, so you are free to experiment with second-hand shoes that don’t cost much. If you are able to find a style that looks enough like the Hero of Legend, you don’t have to bother with boot covers.

Velcro - you will be using Velcro on the pleather belt. I recommend using sticky Velcro for this project, not the sew-on version, due the nature of pleather and vinyl.

Glue - tacky glue is fine, but you may also try hot glue (use caution!), Goop or E-600 brand adhesive (use ventilation!).

Clothes Iron - this one tool can make a difference between a crisp cosplay and a wrinkled mess. I absolutely recommend that you get an iron, or borrow one for your project.

Step 2: Measurements and Sizing

Body Measurements

Simplified to 5 basic unisex sizes, may differ from regular clothing size. For in-between sizes, choose the largest size and cut down if needed:

in (cm)-------XS----------S-----------M------------L-------------XL

Bust---------32 (81)-----35 (89)---38 (97)-----41 (104)---44 (112)

Waist--------27 (69)-----30 (76)---32 (81)-----35 (89)-----38 (97)

Hip-----------34 (86)-----37 (94)---40 (102)---43 (109)---46 (117)

Sizing the pattern: You'll need measurements before you decide which size to cut your pattern on. First make sure you are wearing any undergarments or shoes that you plan to wear with your costume (these can affect your height and other factors). Have someone help you wrap the measuring tape around you while you stand tall and relaxed. Breathe normally and make sure the tape hugs your body, but not too tight. Having a helper will keep your numbers as accurate as possible.

- For the chest, measure across the fullest part of your bust. - For the waist, measure across the smallest part of your waist. Your natural waist is usually higher (around the belly button level) than where you wear a belt. - For the hip, measure around the fullest part of your bottom.

These three measurements will give your basic size if you refer to the guide above. If you find that your measurements are dramatically different than a standard size, cut the largest size that fits them. You can always take in your costume, but it's much harder to let it out! Beside your basic size, there are a few more measurements that will affect the fit of your costume. Read on:

For your hat size, circle the measuring tape around your head like a crown. Remember to wear your wig (if applicable) when measuring, this can make an inch or two difference.

Small: 20in (51cm)

Medium: 22in (56cm)

Large: 24in (61cm)

For your boot covers, remember that they need to accommodate both your leg and the boots, so when in doubt, cut one size larger. Use this conversion chart to find your boot cover size from your regular street shoe size:

Small: Child 2, 3, 4, 5; Womens 3, 4,5, Mens 4 (calf 15in/38cm)

Medium: Child 6, Womens 6, 7,8; Mens 5, 6 (calf is 15.5in/39cm)

Large: Womens 9, 10, 11, Mens 7, 8, 9 (calf is 16in/40cm)

X-Large: Womens 12, Mens 10, 11, 12 (calf is 16.5in/42cm)

Now that you know what size to use, cut out all the paper pieces of your pattern. Each piece will let you know how many you need and which fabric you should use (“cut one on fold”, “cut four”, etc). Lay out your pieces carefully and pin them to the fabric. Cut out your pieces and lay them together by color. Leaving the paper pinned to the pieces until you’re ready to sew them makes it easy to tell them apart. It's a good idea to save some scrap fabric pieces so you can experiment with the different fabrics and test out how they work with your sewing machine and clothes iron.

Step 3: Sewing the Tunic and Hat

(Download the PDF for illustrated instructions and pattern pieces)

Tunic - The tunic uses pieces 1 and 2 of bright green, remember to cut these on a fold. Pin the shoulder seams together as shown, then the side seams. Sew using a straight stitch. If you have an overlock machine (also known as a serger), you an use that to finish off the raw edges as you progress on your project.

You need to hem the bottom, the sleeve edges, and neck. I’ll talk about three styles of hem: turn under and serge, turn under and Fraycheck, and double turn under. For any method, it really helps to have an iron so you can press the edge down. Use your fabric scraps for a test to make sure you won’t leave burn marks on your tunic. You may also find it useful to cut tiny slits, or release cuts, in the curved areas of the tunic, like the armpits.

Method 1). Serge and turn - finish off the raw edge with a serger, then iron into place by folding over 1/2” (13cm) and pressing with the iron. Finish off with a straight stitch.

Method 2). Turn under and Fraycheck - carefully dab Fraycheck on all the raw edges (use in a well-ventilated area!) and let it dry. Press the bottom edge about 1/2" (13cm) and use your straight stitch to secure it.

Method 3). Double turn – this is a challenging method because you have to be very precise with your finishing seam, but it looks very nice once finished. Turn under the edge 1/4" (6cm) and press. Now turn it again over itself (roll it like a burrito) and press. Finish off with a straight seam, being careful that your stitch goes through all three layers.

Now comes the hard part - turning the neck using method 2. Cut some tiny slits in the bottom of the vee - this will allow you to turn the edges over by releasing tension. Dab a little Fray Check on the slits and let them dry. While you're waiting, try out a few stitching pivots on your scrap fabric. A pivot is when you stop stitching and turn the stitch to create a sharp corner. You do this by plunging the needle into the fabric, releasing the foot, carefully turning the fabric, and placing the foot down again. Try a couple of times until you feel confident to move on.

Press the neck edge down 1/4in (6mm) and sew. When you approach the vee, pivot your stitch. Your stitch line will likely run over a spot with a raw edge as shown, but your Fray Check will prevent it from coming apart later. You can get a little fancy by backstitching (reversing) and adding a triangle.

Hat - the hat uses piece 3 (cut two) and 4 (cut one on fold). Sew the sides of the hat together as shown using a straight stitch (serge too if applicable). Pivot the sewing machine to achieve the square point of the hat as shown. Try it on to check the fit. If you are wearing a wig, you need to put that on before trying your hat – it will change your head size. If your hat needs to be smaller, sew up the sides again, this time going in about 1/4in (6mm) on each side.

Turn your hat inside out so that the raw edges of the seam are hidden inside, then use the blunt end of a pencil to carefully poke out the point of the hat. Sew and serge the butt ends of your hat band together to make a loop. Fold the loop in half, going lengthwise, and pin.

Pin the loop to your hat, placing the seam in the back of the hat (you want it to sit at the back of your neck where it will be less noticeable). Secure all three layers using a zig-zag stitch, pulling the fabric gently from the front and the back as you sew. This will keep the seam as stretchy as possible. Finish off with a serge seam or Fray Check.

Step 4: Sewing the Shirt

(Download the PDF for illustrated instructions and pattern pieces)

Shirt - Use pieces 5, 6, and 7 (cut two of piece 7) of lime green. Line up the front (piece 5) and back (6) on the shoulder seams. Pin and sew as shown, finishing off with a serger if needed. The stars indicate the front of the shirt.

Now hem the neck edge using one of the three methods described above in the tunic instructions.

Set the shirt body aside for now. Take the sleeves and turn the sleeve cuff edges over using your favorite method and secure with a straight seam.

Pin the sleeve head to the shirt as shown. Start by pinning on the edges first and working your way towards the middle. Make sure your pieces are facing the same way as in the illustration, and use the stars on the pattern for guidance. Sew with a straight seam and go slow – this is a tough spot. Check for gaps or wrinkles in the seams before you move on. If using a serger, now is the time to finish off the raw edge of this seam.

Pin the side seams together, starting at the armpits and moving out. Sew together from the sleeve cuff to the shirt hem with a straight seam. Finish off with a serger if needed.

Turn the garment inside out so the seams are now facing inward. Hem the bottom using your favorite method and finish off with a straight seam.

Step 5: Making the Leggings

(Download the PDF for illustrated instructions and pattern pieces)

Leggings - use piece 8W or 8M (cut two) of white. Use 8W if you have a female body and 8M if you have a male body. Again, the stars indicate the front of the garment. Fold each leg piece lengthwise and pin together, starting at the top of the inseam. Sew together using a zig-zag stitch, gently pulling the fabric from the front and back as you sew to maximize the stretch. If you’re going to use a serger, do so only after you use a zig-zag. Repeat on the other leg.

Turn only ONE leg right-side out, and then stick it inside the other leg. I know it sounds unorthodox, but trust me, it will work. You should now have the right sides of the fabric facing each other with the raw edges of the outside leg facing outside, and the raw edges of the inside leg facing inside.

Pin the middle seams together, starting from the inseam where the star is located. It's better to trim a little from part of the waist than to have a skewed inseam. Sew the seam together as shown and finish off with a serger if desired.

Now extract the inside leg, turning it inside out so that both of the legs are now facing inside out with the seams exposed.

Trim any extra from the waist and serge if needed. Fold the waistband down and pin, giving 1" (2.5cm) allowance to form a casing. You'll be adding elastic inside the casing. Sew along the edge, leaving a gap so you can get the elastic in later. You can use a straight stitch or zig-zag stitch.

Place a safety pin in the end of your waist elastic as shown. Thread it through the casing and leave the ends exposed. Pin the ends together with your safety pin.

Try on your pants and pull the elastic until it is secure and comfortable, trim if needed. When you're satisfied, sew the butt ends of the elastic together. Pull these into the waistband and secure it with a straight stitch, making sure to catch the elastic in the stitch and close that gap you left earlier. This will prevent it from twisting around within the casing.

Turn over the hems at the cuffs of the pants by 1/4" (6mm) and stitch with a zig-zag. Take your time, it's tough to sew around small spaces like these pant cuffs.

Step 6: Making the Belt and Boot Covers

(Download the PDF for illustrated instructions and pattern pieces)

Boot covers - Use piece 9 (cut four from pleather). At this point, make sure you switch to a denim or leather sewing machine needle. Sewing this material is difficult! Swing over a piece of paper will help the material slide under the sewing machine more easily. Also remember: the more holes you put in the pleather, the weaker it will be. You can always use masking tape instead of pins, which will minimize the holes. For best results, cut a larger size than you think you need. Place two of each piece together and pin. Sew together with a straight seam, but don't turn inside out yet.

Try on your bootcovers. Put them on your legs (still inside out) and then put on your boots on, sliding the covers over them. Take this opportunity to measure the black elastic and mark where it should go – there is a guide on the pattern, but you may need to adjust it for your shoe style.

Mark your covers with pencil if you need to take them in, this is done on the wrong side of the fabric so no one will see your marks. Take them off and check the marks for symmetry before sewing again. Sew on the elastic as shown, then you are ready to turn them inside out. Instead of elastic, you can also glue the covers directly onto your boots. I recommend Goop or E-6000 adhesive for this since the glue will flex after drying. CAUTION: using these adhesives may be hazardous to your health! Use only in a well-ventilated area.

Belt – cut one of piece 10 (on fold) from brown pleather, piece 11 from yellow foam, and piece 12 from brown foam. The belt lengths are longer than the waist measurements listed on the size guide, because this belt is meant to be worn lower than your natural waist. To check your size, I recommend cutting one size larger than your standard size and holding it around your waist. Then cut it down to the size that looks best to you.

Hem the belt along all edges by turning it over 1/2” (13mmm) and securing it with a straight stitch. Test out your hem on a scrap piece of pleather to get the hang of it. You can always avoid poking extra holes by using masking tape to lay the edge down before you sew. Sensei Says: If this step is too challenging, you can always trim the hem off and simply leave a raw edge.

Now attach your Velcro patches. If you are using sticky Velcro, simply peel and stick. For sew-on Velcro, use a dab of glue to keep it in place before you sew. Once the glue sets, sew along the edges using a straight stitch and pivot your machine at the corners. Make sure you attach one piece on the right side, and one on the wrong side, as shown.

For the belt buckle, cut out piece 11 from yellow foam and piece 12 from brown foam. Cut the yellow piece where indicated on the dashed line to get the spiral detail. Now simply glue the yellow shape on top of the brown shape. USE CAUTION for hot glue, and a well-ventilated area if you are using Goop or E-6000 adhesive.

Once the glue sets, glue your assembled belt buckle on top of the belt end.

Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a great cosplay that you put together with your own two hands. Be proud of what you’ve done, because you did your best. Always do your best! Thank you for allowing me to join you on your creative journey. I hope we can make more things together someday. Remember, my goal is to help you create, so if you have questions or suggestions, let me know.

Sincerely Yours,

Supreme Thunder