Hidden Blade! (Spring Loaded)

Thats right your very own,. not stupid pull ring based awsome possom spring loaded hidden blade!

Using parts from my local hardware store and about 18 hours and an inventor trial i created tested and produced my very own hidden blade!

Its very dangerous but very cool it has a bunch of built in safety features but its still pretty dangerous.

Step 1: Materials

1 inch by 1/8 metal 1 foot
6 3 inch light load 1/2" id springs
1 1.5 foot retractable spring
twine
fishing line
1 2 inch by 18 steel bar
1 copper weldig rod
2 straps froma backpack
1 3 foot by 1/2 inch dowel rod
4 washers and 4 wood screws
2 machine screws and nuts
2 1/2inch steel bushings
4 hot glue gun sticks

Step 2: Tools!

Pliers
vice grip (Mines a craftsman! *Hint hint cough cough* vote * cough*
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00951854000P
hammer
drill and drill bits
rasp
welder (very much so needed)
lighter
screwdriver
needle nose pliers
Patients and lots of it!
Dremel

Step 3:

Step 4: Next the Dowels

Take your dowel rods and cut them into 1 foot sections, now predrill some holes the size of your wood screws and put the washers on the ends, then, screw in the screws,(do this to one side only), next put all your springs on (3 on each rod) and the new bushing assembly, then predrill and screw yoru washers into the other end.

Step 5: The Base Plate

Use your new dowel assembly to mark some holes on your base plate (2 inch rod) basically, yoe need to trace out the bars and mark 4 hles (2 on each end) for the dowels drill these hol;es just befre the end of the dowels. Now drill 4 holes into the dowel rods at the end by the spot you drilled the holes, take these spots and drill down until you hit the screws you put in earlier./ ame sure all the holes line up

Step 6: Attaching the Dowel Rods to the Base

OK now you need to cut the heads off of 4 nails about 1/2 inch from the bottom, then weld the heads through the bottom of the base holes so the sharp cut of end now sticks up, weld 4 nuts on the top of the base through each nail to prop the "Sled" up from sliding on the bottom. Now use alot (like 2 tbs total) of hot glue (dont measure it lol just pour alot) on the new base-nail assembly and line the dowels holes up onto the nails and let it set.

Use your dremel to smooth the edges of the nails before you set it.

Step 7: Time to Make the "switches"

OK take your copper welding rod and cut off about 4 and 6 inches
tke the 4 inch one and bend it into a T with a loop at the bottom (liek picture 1) and wit the 6 inch on make an ____|  and make a loop at the bottom (pic 2)

now pull the sled back as far as it will go and put the tip of the ____| on the sled now see wherer the loop ends up adn drill a hole for it, do the same with the T

Now use your machine screws and nuts to attach the peices of metal to the base

Now tie a peice of fishing line (24 inches long is good) to each end of the left side of the T and to the bend on the ____|

now when you pull the line the 2 wsitches will m,ove away from the dowels assembly, now attach a rubber bad to the middle of the line and the other end wrapper aroudn the base so it will return to the dowels when not pulled.

The purpose of these swicthes is to allow the blade to be released when you pull your hand away and to lock the blade to either cock it or to allow a full range of movment so the re-cocker wont pull it in (the big spring that comes in later)

dremel off sharp edges!

Step 8: Time to Make the Re-loader (re-cocker)

OK take 5 inches of twine and loop it around the left dowel rod, now take that loop it into the springs connecter (big spring) and tie it shut (use a little hot glue to eep the knots together there under alot of stress).

take the other end of the spring and tie 8 inches of twine to it, tie another not in the twine once you wrap it around you shoulderblade. again use hot glue to secure

This whle mechanism here allows your arm to move freely and without too much tug, but it also allows the blade to be withdrawn and recocked one the switches are activated again.

Step 9: Making the Blade

Ok so this step is lacking, i ordered a custom fabbricated blade online to look like the real deal and to act like it too, but, its not here yet =(, so we'll get ready to install it when it is, take the rest of your 1 inch steel bar and cut it into 8.5 inches then weld it onto the flat part of the sled, when the blade comes, the wider base of it will be welded onto this wihile the rest will be withdrawn until fired (more on this when i get the darn thing).

In the picture you see my dremel with a cloth attachment, i used to it to clean some grease off the blade.

Step 10: The Pull Ring (haha! No, No Stupid Rings It Just Pulls the Switch)

Yea soi take about 2 inches of copper welding rd and bend it into an o using the vice, take this and tie the other end of the fishing line to it and walla! a cool looking easy way to activate your switches. Dremel off sharp edges. Remember this goes on your finger!

Step 11: Straps

Us some back pack straps to atack it to your forearm, hto glue them down on the front and back of the device, and make sure it fits tightly, The device has a safty built in, asuming you built it correctly it will onyl fire once you move your hand ouyt of the way to trigger it. but it can still be dangerous and make sure it is firmly on.

Step 12: Final Assembly

It come out really well i will decorate it once the final blade is here, it ended up as (in my opinoin) the best hidden blade mockup out there as all other ones relie of pull rings and dotn actually lock into force like mine, nor do the spring out in any directions or withdraw by temselves either.

Step 13: Disclaimer

DO not try this unless you are skilled at crafting! this was the hardest build ever, i have 5 cuts because the thing misfired when i was adjusting the switches! I take no responsabilty for you, or your actions and lease, be safe!