Hologram Display - Part 1 (Build - on Going)

Welcome to my Hologram Display build page.

As part of the Critical Making Core class at Emily Carr University of Art and Design, I am in the process of building a responsive hologram display cabinet that will showcase a possible scenario of the impact human race has on our planet. The display will utilize PIR sensors that will detect when viewers are getting closer and will either trigger the hologram or switch between a pleasant animation of nature into a catastrophic scenario (i.e. wildfires or global warming).

The main components of this display are the cabinetry, the display monitor, the acrylic pyramid, a solid shape (that will act as canvas) and the electronics. In this tutorial we will cover the first part of the build which includes the cabinetry, the monitor mount and the first part of the acrylic pyramid.

This is an ongoing project that will get updated as we move forward. Spacial thanks to Critical Making Professor Dr. Garnet Hertz, Technician and electronics guru Bobbi Kozinuk and class INDD-310-S003-2017 for their guidance and support.

Note: The video demonstrates following steps of the build using a CNC router machine. All cuts and dimensions can be performed using power tools such as table saw, jig saw and plunge router

Image: http://www.aurora-multimedia.co.uk/product/dreamo...

Step 1: Materials

For this first part of the build we will need:

- 4`x8` sheet of 5/8" thick MDF

- 2" x 4" x 96" dimension lumber

- 1" x 4" x 96" dimension lumber

- 9" Class Widescreen LCD Monitor (model used is LG W1942TQ-BF from craigslist)

- VGA cable and Powe Source cable

- Aluminum Z-Bar Hanger (French Cleat)

- Laptop

- PVA glue

- Brad-nail gun

- no.8 x 3/8" wood screws

- Painters tape

Step 2: 3D Model & Measurements

- First step is to create a 3D model in order to get the rough dimensions based on the size of your monitor.

Image 1 shows how the build was broken down into using colors:

The grey color indicates the parts that conform the "main build up" of the cabinet. These include the top box of the cabinet that holds the monitor in place, the back of the display and the base that together create the area where the hologram will be displayed and contained.

The 3 faced acrylic pyramid is shown in a white-translucent color. This is where the reflection will be projected on creating the optic illusion of a 3D hologram

Finally the red indicates the "skeleton" of the build. It is the structure in which the cabinet will be sitting on and will allow the top box to hold the weight of the monitor without tipping.

- Image 2 shows the rough dimensions of the build unit to get an idea on how big it is going to be

- Image 3 shows the all parts that will form the top box/drawer the back and the base (grey parts on Image 1).

- Image 4 is just a capture of the 3D model being assembled together in Solidworks.

Step 3: Top Box/Drawer Build

This project required having a component that would have been created using Computer Numerical Control (CNC) programming. I have chosen to create some of the cabinet parts using a CNC router machine. The parts that have been cut on the CNC machine can be easily cut using a table saw and a jigsaw or plunge router.

For the top part of the display we basically need to create a box or a drawer that will encase the monitor. Following the measurements on Image 3 detailed on Step 2, we can create the box for a 19" or bigger wide screen computer monitor.

Box is build as follows:

- Box/Drawer is broken down into 4 sides that sit oon top of a base that has a cut out for the monitor.

- Longer sides are 3" tall by 22" long and shorter sides are 3" tall by 16" long. One of the longer sides may have a cutout to allocate VGA and power cables.

- Base of the box/drawer is 16" x 22" with a 16" x 10" cut out. Depending on the monitor the cutout will have to be re positioned. The best option is to test fit the monitor into the base and trace the monitor to get an accurate positioning reading for the cutout.

- Once you have the sides cit to size you can do a 45 degree cut to the ends in order to prepare them for joining (mitter joint). Test fit the pieces to make sure they go together nice and tight.

- Align end of the pieces together, apply PVA glue to the joint and then fold them so they create a 90 degree angle using tape to hold it together as shown on Image 3 of this section.

- Once you have the sides glued together, you can glue them to the base using PVA glue and brad nails to keep ot together. You can use only glue and clamps to keep everything together until the glue dries.

* Images above show the CNC parts being cut as well as the test fitting of the parts and the assembly.

Step 4: Back, Base and Mount

Now that we have the top drawer assembled we can move on to putting the base and back together.

- A s per Image 1 on this section, we need to cut 2 pieces of the 2" x 4"s dimensional lumber at about 15" and attach them to the bottom plate of our display at about 2"-3" from the edges. We can use either brad nails or glue on this step. Make sure the ends of the 2"x4"s are flush to the shorter side of the base.

- Now we need to create a frame on the back of the back plate as shown in 3D model of Image 2 so it can hold the upper box/drawer

- Using the Z-Shaped molding (french cleat) as shown on Image 3, attach one of the moldings into the back plate using the wood screws. Then take note of the desired height for the top box/drawer and attached the other molding into the back of the top box/drawer as shown in Image 4.

- The molding should be strong enough to carry the weight of any monitor. Make sure that the height of the top box is consistent in all 4 corners in relation to the base (Image 5)

Image 3: https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/moldings-...

Step 5: Securing the Monitor

After making sure that the build is strong and steady, it is time to place the computer monitor and secure it in place.

- As shown on images 1-4 , place the monitor facing down into the drawer.

- Turn on the monitor if necessary in order to easily recognize the boarder of the display.

- Align it to the boarder making sure it is even on all sides so we can get as much of the display exposed as possible.

- Mark the position of the monitor with a marker or pencil on the inside of the top box/drawer in case you need to dismount the monitor for any cable work in the future.

- When the time comes to secure the monitor, simply use stop blocks and glue to secure the monitor in place, preventing it from slipping back and fort. We have allowed plenty of room around the cutout to fit the stop blocks and all excess cable we might have.

Step 6: Wiring the Monitor

This is a simple step, but also a very important. depending on your monitor, the wires will take more or less space. Make sure the cables are well distributed around the monitor and leave some extra cable tucked into one of the sides of the top box/drawer in case there is any pulling happening. Last thing we want is for the cables to get unplugged.

You can now go on and connect the VGA to your laptop and extend or duplicate the view on the monitor. Don`t forget to plug it into a power source.

For now we have reach the end of the first part of the build.

Step 7: Testing Phase (on Going)

Now that we have everything hooked up its time to do some testings.

Using a piece of 1/8" thick acrylic and wedge to hold in place, we can see how the reflection of the monitor looks like when projecting a random action sports video on it.

Please refer to the video at the beginning of this instructables for the testing phase footage.