Home Made Small Engine Gasket
Intro: Home Made Small Engine Gasket
If you rebuild any small engine, or even take it apart for repair, chances are you'll need to replace the gasket. You could order a new one or you could make your own. Ordering gaskets can delay any project if it doesn't fit right or can't be found. This is a quick and easy alternative.
STEP 1: Materials
You will need:
Engine gasket material
(found online or in auto stores)
Or brown paper bags (this will get the job done
But is inferior to the gasket material)
Liquid ink or industrial sharpie
Exacto knife
(Optional) hole punch
Engine (I'm rebuilding a lawnmower engine)
Engine gasket material
(found online or in auto stores)
Or brown paper bags (this will get the job done
But is inferior to the gasket material)
Liquid ink or industrial sharpie
Exacto knife
(Optional) hole punch
Engine (I'm rebuilding a lawnmower engine)
STEP 2: Practice
I used the sharpie for this demonstration because it is a little more difficult. Basically you're just creating a large stamp out of one half of the engine. I practiced a few timed on looseleaf to prefect the technique.
You take the sharpie and draw over the entire edge of the engine quickly, leaving enough ink for it to be visibly wet. You may need to go around the edge 2-6 times in order to get wet ink on it. Immediately after applying the ink flip the engine half onto the paper ink side down and press hard on the top. Remove it and examine your mark. It may take a few times to get this right.
If you're using the ink, dip a Q-tip into the ink and apply it to the edge. This ink will take longer to dry because of the amount but accuracy and speed are still necessary.
You take the sharpie and draw over the entire edge of the engine quickly, leaving enough ink for it to be visibly wet. You may need to go around the edge 2-6 times in order to get wet ink on it. Immediately after applying the ink flip the engine half onto the paper ink side down and press hard on the top. Remove it and examine your mark. It may take a few times to get this right.
If you're using the ink, dip a Q-tip into the ink and apply it to the edge. This ink will take longer to dry because of the amount but accuracy and speed are still necessary.
STEP 3: Final Press
For the final ink press just repeat you're practice ones using the gasket paper. Remember to cover all the area of metal to get a complete stamp. Small spots that do not stay wet are okay. It is more important to get a full stamp with small parts missing than a stamp with one whole side and the other almost invisible.
STEP 4: Cut Out
Take you're exacto knife and cut around the edge of your stamp line. Begin on the inside and then the outside finishing with the holes for the bolts. Take your time and go slow to avoid cutting through your gasket. You can cut out the holes with either the exacto knife of simply use a hole punch
STEP 5: Finished!
Check to confirm your gasket fits the engine then go ahead and tighten it up. You may want to ad some gasket seal liquid but this is not necessary. Thank you and good luck with you're engines!
13 Comments
Rmcmillon86 8 years ago
Matt Casdorph 8 years ago
Being that he didn't specify what engine he's working on, and I'm assuming in all likelihood that this is not the same model engine that you are wanting a part number for, if you look on the shroud (metal cover that covers magneto/coil area) it should have a small tag pop riveted to the shroud, that tag should have the model number printed or etched into it, give me that number and I'll get you the accurate part number for the sump gasket
TimSemborski 10 years ago
CharlesB123 10 years ago
heathbar64 10 years ago
EricHi 10 years ago
lime3D 10 years ago
Garrethwr 10 years ago
Get some luke warm water and wet the gasket paper. (don't worry it will hold together).
Then place the paper over the area you wish to make the gasket for.
Take a medium to small size hammer (one you can easily use in one hand), and whilst holding the paper in place, tap the edges of the object you are making the gasket for.
The sharp corners cut the paper.
Wait for paper to dry again and then bolt it all up.
Saves a lot of time with not having to ink and re ink.
Hope it helps cheers.
CharlesB123 10 years ago
Bill WW 10 years ago
When I have made gaskets with a lot of bolt holes like your example, I have used a simple paper hole punch for most of the holes.
I understand and appreciate the comments of O-Budd-1 (be careful making your own crankcase gaskets). But if you select a gasket thickness close to the original, you should be OK, and I believe what you used was fine. (60+ years making things work, just like you, Werock).
O-Budd-1 10 years ago
Many small engines, including the Brigs / Stratton pictured, use the the gasket thickness to set crankshaft end play ... too much end play and your engine wears out faster because the piston doesn't stay in proper alignment with the bore.
Too little and you wipe out the thrust faces of the man bearings and may not even be able to turn the crank at all.
BTW, the engine in the old 1952 Cushman scooter in my avatar is a ported, polished, relieved and balanced 140702 series 7 Hp Briggs with a 0.125" mill on the head to make up for lost compression from the relieving. It's too powerful for the 8Hp rated centrifugal clutch ... gotta go for a CVT drive instead in the future.
marc.cryan 10 years ago
wambs8 10 years ago