Introduction: How to Build a Sofa Table
This tutorial will take through a step by step process to create a Sofa Table.
Dimensions are 6' x 31.5" x 14"
Watch the video first to see how easy this project is!
2x12 6ft 2pcs
2x4 8ft 2pcs
2x3 8ft 2pcs
2x2 8ft 2pcs
3/8" dowel rod 1pc
2.5" screws 50pcs
Paint, Stain, and finish as desired.
1pint of minwax dark walnut stain.
1pint of polyurethane
1pint of hunter green oil based paint from rustoleum
Step 1: Start With Your 2x3s
Cut two 2x3s to 72" with 45 degree angled cuts on the end. The inside measurement should be 69"
Cut two 2x3s to 14.25" with 45 degree angled cuts on the end. The inside measurement should be 11.25"
Step 2: Cut One 2x12 to 69 Inches
This 2x12 will be the center of your table top and the four 2x3s will be the frame around it
Step 3: Drill Some Holes
Use a 3/8" drill bit to drill holes around your 2x3s.
The holes should be 3/4" from the top of your table.
The holes should be 1" deep.
On the large 2x3s, put a hole 2" from each end, then one hole every foot throughout the rest of the board
On the small 2x3s, put a hole 2" from each end, then one hole in the center of the boards.
Step 4: Attach the 2x3s to the Sides of the 2x12
Use 2.5" screws and wood glue to attach the 2x3s to the sides of your 2x12.
The sides of the 2x3s should be flush with the top of the 2x12.
You may need to trim your small 2x3s for a perfect miter fit.
Step 5: Use My Dowel Method to Hide the Holes/screws
Apply some wood glue to the end of a dowel rod.
Fit the rod into each hole.
Trim the excess with a jigsaw or hand saw.
Sand down any imperfections.
Step 6: Cut Four 2x4s at 30 Inches
These will be your legs
Step 7: Design Your Legs
Draw a line across one 2x4 four inches from a short side.
Draw a line across the board perpendicular to that line two inches from the long side.
Give the legs some curves by using round objects to trace in some curves on the legs.
Step 8: Cut Out Your Leg Design
Cut the first leg out.
Use the first leg to trace the design on the other three.
Cut those legs out next.
Sand out any imperfections with 80 grit sandpaper.
Step 9: Drill Some Pocket Holes in the Top of the Legs
FIRST, turn two legs one direction. Then turn the other two the opposite direction.
This will keep you from making holes on the outside of your legs.
Drill two pocket holes on the top of each leg.
Step 10: Attach the Legs to the Table Top
Use wood glue and pocket screws to attach the legs to the table top.
Attach them flush with the inside corners of the table top.
Step 11: Start the Bottom Shelf
Cut a 2x1.5" rectangle 1.5" down from each corner of your 6' 2x12 with a jigsaw. (2" wide on the long side of the 2x12)
If you would like curved edges on the bottom shelf, trace a curved object, and cut those corners out as well.
Step 12: Cut Your 2x2s
Cut two 2x2s to 65"
Cut two 2x2s to 8.25"
Step 13: Attach the 2x2s to the Bottom of the Lower Shelf
Attach the 65" 2x2s 1.5 inches from the long edge of the 2x12. They should be flush with the "corner" of the 2 x 1.5" cutouts made earlier.
I used my screw and dowel method to attach these boards to the bottom.
My holes were drilled 1" deep, and 2.25" from the long edge of the 2x12.
I made one hole close to each end of each 2x2, then every foot in between.
Attach the 8.25" 2x2s flush with the edge of the 65" 2x2s.
They will fit between the cutouts made earlier.
These only need two screws to secure them.
Step 14: Attach the Shelf to the Legs
Attach the lower shelf between the legs.
The table top will be 12" from the floor.
Use two screws and dowels in each leg.
One will go into the 2x12 on the shelf.
One will go into the 2x2 on the shelf.
You may need to trim up your 1.5 x 2" holes if you are having issues getting it to fit.
Step 15: Prep It for Finishing!
You may need to fill in small gaps with wood filler.
Do that if you need, then sand the piece down with an 80 grit sandpaper.
If you want a finer finish, come back with a 220 before you start finishing.
Step 16: Finish As Desired.
I stained my shelf and tabletop with a dark walnut from Minwax.
Once the stain dries, apply a coat of polyurethane. Mine is has a satin finish.
Paint the legs of your table your favorite color. I chose a hunter green from Rustoleum.
Step 17: Enjoy Your New Sofa Table!
Thank you for looking!
3 years ago
Nice build. Even though I have seen the dowel to fill holes trick before, I had not thought of how it makes it look more hand crafted. Thinking about that way will prompt me to use that method.
By the way, of course you found your tape measure in the last place you looked. You wouldn't keep looking after you found it , would you?
Reply 3 years ago
Thank you! Yeah, it’s definitely handy for joining thicker wood. I was hoping I was the inventor of the idea. O well, I still like it. Yeah, the tape measure joke is something I just say sometimes to be funny. I like to state the obvious sometimes, no matter how dumb it is.
3 years ago
Very nice! Do you have any problems with the 2x12? I know dimensional lumber of that size tends to be prone to warping or cracking as it dries out.
Reply 3 years ago
I have had issues in the past with 2x12s when I don't use any kind of bracing to keep it from warping. That is why I attached a 2x3 frame around the edges with long screws. If you use nails instead of screws and wood glue, they can still become separated, but I have used this method a few times, and I haven't had too many issues.