Introduction: Car Oil Change- the Right Way
If you are reading this, then you are probably considering changing the oil in your car....YOURSELF!!!! This is a very scary thought, you doing something mechanical to your car! Shouldn't that be left to the pros? Nah, it is just changing the oil.
WARNING!
This Instrucable will save you $$$
Difficulty: easy..
Step 1: Supplies + Tools
This is an important step!
If you skip this step then you will not even know how to complete your oil change!
That should be it....I think
Step 2: Safety....yes or No? & Rasing the Car
Safety Is Important!!!!!!
I had to put safety and raising the car in one step because,
1. You would skip this step
2. There are some safety issues on raising the car
I know that you are on your mobile device, don't ask
The Chock
...olate?
It is really important to chock your car tires. If your car starts rolling when it is raised and you are under there, then the car could fall right on you!!!!
Raising the Car
You only need to raise the car if you do not have access to underneath
Also, if you do not have a jack, you could always pop one tire on the curb.
Anyways...jack up your car and then PUT JACK SUPPORTS under the frame of the car. It is simple math people!!
Hydraulic jack fall + no jack stand= Flattened YOU
So, let's move on to the next step
Step 3: Draining Old Oil
You could skip this step, but then you wouldn't be changing you oil, just adding
First thing you do it locate you bolt (check your owners manual for location)
Then place oil pan underneath bolt
Loosen bolt with appropriate socket
Finish removing the bolt with your hand
Finally, let the oil drain
This is a messy one, so have rags or paper towels on hand.
Also, after you removed the bolt, lower the car form the jack so al the oil can drain.
The Following Section Is Completely Optional
Before you drain the oil, you should let your car warm up for about 5 minutes. This is because oil is thicker when cold and thinner when warm. Of course the thinner the oil, the easier it will drain. But (there always is a but), If you do this, then the oil will burn your skin. It is nearly impossible to change car oil without getting some on your hands. I made the unfortunate mistake by driving to the auto parts store to get the oil and then immediately changing the oil when I got home; lets just say the oil was HOT
The Following Section Is Not Optional
Move to the next step
Note: A big question is "what do I do with the old oil?" Well, I save mine to quench homemade knives, but if you are not into that, then you should be able to bring it to your local recycling center for FREE
Step 4: The Oil Filter
Firstly,
changing your oil filter EVERYTIME is important. If your don't change your oil filter, might as well don't change the oil!
Secondly,
to remove your filter, you may need the oil filter wrench.
OK, so what you need to do it remove your oil filter, prime it, seal the gasket, and put it back on. Whew! I am tired now (what you don't know is that I just said that very fast in my head).
Now do you want to know how to do all that stuff?
To remove your filter, turn it counter clock wise. This is the messy part since oil is in the filter and it spills out
To prime your filter, add some new oil into the new filter
To seal the gasket, rub new oil around the new filter gasket. This helps the filter seal onto the engine block better
To put it back on turn it clock-wise onto the engine block where you removed it. Hand Tight! Do not use the oil filter wrench to tighten it!
If This Does Not Make Sense, Consult To The Video On The Last Step
What I also like to do is write the date, mileage of the vehicle, and the type of oil I am using on the new filter.
Oh ya, this is important. Screw in your oil plug before going to the next step (this could have gotten messy)
Step 5: The NEW Oil
This is a pretty simple step ( my cat could do it if she had opposable thumbs!)
So what you do is locate your engine oil cap and remove it
Then you pour in the new oil, consult to your owners manual to see what type and how much oil you need
After putting the NEW (I know some of those cheap guys are putting the old oil back in) oil into the engine, check your dipstick. If you need more oil that what your manual says, put it in!
If you put too much oil in....good luck
NOTE: The oil on my dipstick looks old because for some reason my dipstick got stained, yours should be clean and clear
Step 6: The Last Step....So Sad
Well you guys, this is the last step I get to be with you. I am going to try to make the most of it.
Before we get started, I just wanted to say you all have been great readers
even you mobile device readers. I know that if you are reading this, you are on one
So, let's get started *sniff* on the last *sniff* step...
After you add and check the new oil, replace the engine oil cap!!
Then remove the chock ( or wood in my case)
and lower the car if you had to to change the oil filter
Ta dah! You just completed your oil change!!!!
Here is a video of the whole process, if you want, please subscribe to my YouTube channel.
If you have any question or concern or know a better way how to do it, leave a comment. Now, let it be known everybody has there own way of doing things, this is mine.
And for the mobile device readers, here is a link to the video since I know the video on here is just a picture for you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFOJWEF8a3E
Until next time,
-DoStuffRight
Step 7: ANOTHER STEP!! 8/7/15 Update
After a few days live, a few of the commenters taught me a few things I didn't know about newer car models, and some reminded me of some things that I forgot to mention.
crickelymal:
On many modern cars the recommended technique is to get the engine properly warm eg. 20 minutes driving. Then when draining the oil allow it to drain for at least 20 or 30 minutes. If you don't you can risk turbo charger failure.
I don't know anything about turbo charged cars, but I want to let you turbo people that this is apparently the recommended way to do it. What I think is that the oil, oil pan, drain plug, filter, etc, would be extremely HOT and cause really painful burn if it got on you. And when you reach for the filter, your arm will be burned since the chances that you wouldn't touch the engine or some metal are just about as great as winning operation without having the buzzer going off! But alas, if it will save your awesome turbo charged car, what is burned skin to you? I would do it if I had one.
SteveH9:
And when you have changed the oil, get a strong magnet, like one from a hard drive, and put it on the filter, any worn fragments of metal from the engine will be pulled into the filter.
I have heard of this one, just never tried it. I will definitely have to do it next time
rguerrero79:
a couple tips. 1)before draining the oil, remove the filler cap. this will make draining faster as you will allow air in from the top. 2)I don't fill my filter prior to assembly. on small Japanese cars where there's little room to snake the filler back in,doing this is just asking for messy trouble. all that is needed is to add a little oil on the gasket for a good seal.
I did forget to mention to remove the oil cap when draining. Sorry I failed you guys. As for the filter part, it is my preference to at least put some oil in it, so when you first start the engine, it is not trying to cycle through non-existing oil. But like I said, this is how I do it, you may do it differently.
That's it, thanks for all the comments!! if there are more types of these comments, I will do another update! I don't know if you noticed, but this is in the car and motorcycle contest, so it would be greatly appreciated if you vote for me there.
Also, don't forget to rate this instructable below!