Introduction: How to Make a Mid-Century, Modern Accent Table

In this instructable, I am going to build this Mid-Century Accent Table.

Check out the video for a more in-depth instructions.

The inspiration behind this build is pretty simple. I wanted to build a quick table that looked good and was useful. I wanted a place to put a TV in a bedroom; this was my solution. This is a very simple design with storage.

Step 1: Everything You Need

For all the cut dimensions, see below:


(2) Top and Bottom = 39.5 x 14 inches

(1) Back = 38 1/8 x 4 inches

(2) Side = 14 x 4 inches

(1) Drawer Support = 13.25 x 4 inches


(1) Bottom = 17.5 x 11 1/8 inches

(2) Front Back = 18 1/8 x 3.5 inches

(2) Side= 11 3/8 x 3.5 inches

(1) Door = 3 7/8 x 18.5 inches

(2) Tracks = 5/8 x 12 3/8 inches


(4) Legs

(1) Leg attachment plates set of 4

(1) Pull handle

Step 2: Cutting

I wasn't working from a plan, therefore I only cut what I needed.

I started by cutting the top and the bottom. I then ripped the back and the sides. Next, the back of the cabinet site inside the the two sides.

The inner drawer support sat inside. So, I cut a piece of wood that sat flush to the sides.

Step 3: Building the Drawer

I used wooden tracks to keep the cost down. You can also use drawer slides if you prefer that option. This means your drawer dimensions may be different than mine.

I cut all the paces to the drawer based on the measurements below:


(1) Bottom = 17.5 x 11 1/8 inches

(2) Front Back = 18 1/8 x 3.5 inches

(2) Side= 11 3/8 x 3.5 inches

(1) Door = 3 7/8 x 18.5 inches

(2) Tracks = 5/8 i x 1 2x 3/8 inches

I made a rabbet cut on both sides of the face and the back of the drawer, using a router. The two sides will sit in the rabbet cuts.

Sand everything down before assembling. Then glue and put the drawer together.

I clamped it using this strap

After the box was dry, I created the track slides in the drawer on the router table.

Step 4: Sanding

I sanded all the wood sections and legs prior to assembling. This will make your life a lot easier.

Set the legs up on a piece of wood. Then, tape-off the hardware.

I applied three light coats of black-gloss spray paint.

Step 5: Attaching the Back and Sides

All sides are glued and clamped. I added a couple nails on each ends. You can use screws if you don't have a nail gun, Just cover the screws' heads with wood filler.

I put the drawer on the left side. If you prefer, the right side, that is OK, too.

I inserted the inner-drawer support. and glued and nailed that. as well. I used a speed square to make sure this piece is parallel to the sides.

Step 6: Installing the Drawer

I placed a piece of 1/4-inch plywood as a spacer to lift the drawers.

Place the drawer in the opening on top of the spacers. Then slide the tracks in the slots.

Take a piece of wood to emulate the door cover. Use this piece of wood to push the track back. The goal is to have the door flush with the opening when it is closed. Then, nail this piece into place. An alternative is to pre-drill and use screws .

To attach the drawer door, I used some mending plates as spacers to help center. This lifted the door so I could attach it to the drawer box.

Now, use two screws to attach the inside the drawer and two at the bottom.

Step 7: Adding the Top

Add glue around the perimeter of the top. Put the top in place, and add a few nails.

Clamp and let sit. During this stage, I added the legs, and then removed them prior to painting. My reasoning is If I make a mistake or need to change something, the time is now.

Step 8: Applying the Finish

Use wood filler to fill in nail holes. Then sand again.

Apply two coats of white paint.

Reinstall the hardware and legs.

I wasn't sure what color to paint the inside, so I painted it last. I settled for black and I love the look.

Step 9: Final Touch

Even though I could have used my tape measure to find the center, I like to give tips and tricks during builds whenever I can. I used a sting tape diagonal from one corner to coner as shown in picture. Whereever the lines cross, that is your center.

Drill out the hole for the pull handle. Screw and install.

Since i'm using this for a TV stand, I drilled a hole in the back to pass the wires through for my cable box. That is it for this project.


Check me out on social media to stay up to date.




Google Plus:


Pinterest :