How to Make a Picture Frame

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Intro: How to Make a Picture Frame

I was really expecting this to be easy. I mean, it is only a picture frame how hard can it be? This is my first picture frame and maybe you have made one before but for me, this was a bit of skill stretching to say the least. Anyone can make, so I buckled down and got a great result. My wife has had a small poster for nearly a year and has been asking for a frame to mount it in. I finally got around to doing it, and I really enjoyed the process and outcome. Check out the video to get the “full picture”(see how I did that) and watch the mistakes I made along the way. Enjoy.

STEP 1: Materials and Tools

MATERIALS

TOOLS

STEP 2: Mill the Lumber and Rip the Width

This project was very simple in design once I figured out the exact size of the frame. I made my frame out of walnut and I was making it for an 8x10 poster. The first thing I had to do was mill the lumber using a planer to the thickness I wanted, which was ¾” thick. After I got the boards planed to the correct thickness, I used the table saw to ripped the boards to width which was 2 ¼”.

STEP 3: Add Rabit

The next thing I had to do was add a rabit on the inside and back of the boards that I the poster and glass would lay in. This was my first time doing this, but it was pretty simple. To do this, I first set the blade height on the table saw to ¼” and also ¼” away from the fence and ran the board through the saw creating a ¼” deep groove along the board. I then rotated the board and adjusted the fence to pass along the blade again. This put a ¼” x ¼” rabit along the edge of the board. Watching this in the video would give you a better idea of how I did this.

After I added the rabit, I put the blade at 45 degrees, flipped the boards around, and cut a 45 degree angle on the side of the board opposite of the rabit. This would be on the inside of the frame and gave it a little bit more interesting look. See the photos or watch the video to get an idea of that I did.

STEP 4: Cut to Size

The next thing I had to do was cut the boards to length. I used a formula to figure out how long the boards needed to be. I used it for each side to determine my cuts. Here is the formula: Photo Length + frame width (x2) - rabit depth (x2) +⅛( for wiggle room). The way this looks for my situation is. (LENGTH)10 + 4 ½” - ½”+ ⅛” = 14 ⅛” . (WIDTH) 8 + 4 ½” -½” + ⅛” = 12 ⅛”. So when I cut my boards from outside corner to outside corner to these lengths with the miter saw.

STEP 5: Glue Up

Once the boards were all cut, I could glue them up. I haven’t really found an effective way to use clamps making a frame so to do this I used painters tape. I placed a piece on the worktable sticky side up, and then put two of the frame boards on the tape where the mitered joint would be. I then added glue to the joint and pressed them together. I cleaned off the glue squeeze out and used painters tape again to “clamp” or hold pressure while the glue dried. Check out the video to see exactly what I am talking about for this step because it is a little hard to explain. I made two L shapes this way and then glued the L shapes together. I let this dry for a day before moving to the next step.

STEP 6: Add Splines

When the glue was dry I took off the tape and added splines to the corners of the frame. This gave the frame a lot of added strength and gave bit of a cool aesthetic look as well. This step is not crucial. You could certainly add framing nails, staples or something like that to re enforce your corners, but I used splines. To do this I made a simple spline jig which let the frame sit on the table saw fence where the miter corner was facing downward towards the blade. Then I ran the corner of the frame across the blade about two inches deep and in 2 passes making the spline groove about ¼”” wide. I did this for all corners. Then I ripped a thin piece of maple on the saw the size of my groove. (¼” thick by 2 ½” wide) I would trim the access off later. Once I had my pieces cut, I added glue to them and placed them into the spline grove and put a small hand clamp on them to dry. I repeated this for all of the corners.

TIP- If there are voids and gaps in your frame corners, mix sawdust and glue together to make a paste and apply in all the gaps. Let dry and sand and the gaps are magically gone. Once all of the splines were dry, I cut off the access with a jigsaw, and then sanded them down to match the frame.

STEP 7: Add Finish and Assembly

I used Danish oil as the finish for this frame. I LOVE the way it makes walnut pop. I think I say this in every project I use walnut for but it is my go to! It is easy to apply and looks amazing.

After the finished dried, put in the glass, the poster, and a piece of cardboard in the back. I used push pins to hold the cardboard in, mainly because it is all I had. I then placed a piece of craft paper on the table, applied spray adhesive to it and set the frame on it to dry for about 10 minutes. Then I cut off the access paper with a utility knife. This is great if the poster or photo you are putting in it is permanent and it gives it a much more professional look.

STEP 8: Complete


After this you can add your hardware and hang the frame. This was my first frame ever making and it turned out much better than I thought it would. Check out the video for the full how to experience and if you have any questions on the steps leave me a comment or send me a message. Check me out around the web!

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3 Comments

This looks great! My girlfriend has been asking me to get pictures hung too and I don’t like the frames in stores.

Have you made any more picture frames? Any thoughts on if you would have done it differently?
The combination of walnut and maple is so pretty!