Introduction: How to Make a Ruffle Tee

About: I am a designer!
Create this comfortable and pretty top, great for any occasion. You will need a jersey fabric block pattern ready in the size you want to make it. You can use a loose fitting or close fitting block depending on the style you want to create. The one pictured is made using a close fitting block. I recommend using Winifred Aldrich’s Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear or Ann Haggar’s Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear to make the blocks. Links below.
You will need:
1.half a metre of lightweight cotton jersey
2.tailors tacking thread
3.ballpoint machine and hand sewing needle
4.cotton thread
5.overlocker (if you do not have one you can leave the edges raw or finish them with zigzag stitch).
6.sewing machine
7.jersey block pattern (use loose or close fitting depending on the fit you want).
10. steam iron
11. seam roll
12. measuring tape
13. ruler
14. pins
15. fabric shears
16. paper scissors
17. felt pen

Step 1: 1.Begin by Drafting the Pattern.

Draw around the bodice block. lower the armscye 2cm at side seams. Lower the neckline 5cm on front, 6 cm on back and take 4cm off at the shoulder (neck side). Decide on garment length and remove or add amount.

Measure new neckline. Neckline minus 1/7th will give you the length for the neckline hem.

Measure the garment hemline. Remove 1/7th from this measurement for hem length.

Draw a straight line of 30cm on the pattern paper. Measure 5cm from one edge and square out. Measure 4cm out from centre. Join points to the end to form the ruffle. Mark “fold” at the 5cm width end.

Finish pattern with appropriate markings.

Step 2: 2. Cut the Garment Pieces

Pin pattern pieces to fabric ensuring to lay them on the correct grain-line and  on the fold if necessary.
Mark out the length of the neck and hem finishes. Include seam allowances and double the depth of the fold. Cut on the fold. Remember to add any seam allowances.

Step 3: 3. Finish the Ruffle Edges.

Using an overlocker, use a  2mm seam edge finishing. Alternatively you can leave these edges raw.

Step 4: 3. Gather the Ruffle.

By hand, stitch a row of running stitch using tacking thread and a ball point needle inside the seam allowance of the ruffle pieces.

Pull the thread and gather the fabric to the  length of 30cm.

Then secure the thread in a figure of eight around  a pin. Distribute the ruffles evenly.

Step 5: 5. Overlock, Sew and Press Side Seams and Shoulder Seams.

Use a standard overlocking stitch on the front and back pieces, (excluding neck, hem and armscye seam allowances).

Pin and stitch the garment at the side seams and shoulder seams. Press the seams to set the stitches.

Using a seam roll and a clapper press open the seams.

Step 6: 6. Top-stitch Seams.

Apply a row of top-stitching either side of the seam-lines on the shoulders and side seams for extra strength and for a clean finish. Stitch approximately 8mm from seam, use presser foot as a guide. Press.

Step 7: 7. Stitch and Apply Neckline and Hem.

Join both ends of the neck and garment hem together to make large loops. Press the seams, then press them open. With right side of neck hem facing the right side of the garment, pin in place at shoulder. I prefer to keep seams matching so here I would pin the seam of the neck hem to the seam of the shoulder.

Gently allow the garment to fold in half from this point, to find half way of the neckline. Then do the same with the neck hem and pin in place to the garment. Then equally divide the rest of the hem to the neckline to ensure it is eased on evenly. The hem is to be folded so pin folded in half.

Pin the hem finishes in place. Also at this point pin the ruffle onto the armscye. Apply by placing the mid-point of the ruffle on the shoulder seam. The ruffle is designed to not go full way around the armscye, so pin on until you are out of ruffle, beginning from the centre then working out. Baste into place. Run a row of overlocking around all the joins including the armscye with ruffle.

Step 8: 8. Finish the Seams.

Use tacking thread to hand baste the hems and ruffle over into place. Then stitch a row of top-stitching close to the seams.

Press the seams flat to finish.