Hyundai Getz, Aftermarked Remote Controlled Central Lock

Intro: Hyundai Getz, Aftermarked Remote Controlled Central Lock

So. i got me a Hyundai Getz. Nice little car. Central locking was installed, but not remote controlled.
So i went and got me an aftermarket kit, and wanted to hack that onto the existing system. Something i have done 50 times or so.
But that was not possible. I don't know if i should be mad or not, but the Getz hasn't actually GOT a normal central locking system, if it wasn't installed by the factory. Instead there is NO actuator in the drivers seat door, and NO electronic box that controls the other doors. There is instead, a relay INSIDE the driver side door lock, and when altering from locked to unlocked, this then sends the power to control the other doors, either one way, or the other. Smart, cheap, difficult to upgrade. Oh well, i guess that every thing cant be easy to exploit.
The Hyundai kit, includes new relays, a new door lock, and pulling apart the center console and the driver seat door.
we will only do the door.
To see how you get into the door, without damaging it, look at this.
http://myriadprojects.wordpress.com/2011/02/22/getz-to-remove-the-door-trim/
Thats a nice blog about how to upgrade the cars sound system, and for doing this you also have to get into the door
EDIT: There IS an even easier way, see the last page.

STEP 1: So What to Do

Well, let me show you
1. Place the controller, at a place where it wont be in the way of the windows, and other goodies. i choose the lower outer corner, and fixed it with a couple of strips
the picture shows the power + ground cables pulled up to the original connector ( don't do like i did and cut the wire harness. cut the wires on the other side of the connector instead.
I removed the fuse, as the schematics tell me, that the power wire is fused via a 20 amp fuse.
EDIT: I have since had to realize, that the door is a place of much water, and a lot of bumps. This disabled my remote system on its 3. day. NOW i have the controlbox wrapped in foam (the kind you find in mattresses), and this i have then wrapped in a plastic bag. The wires i then feed in from the BOTTOM, so that any water, will fall OUT of the bag, instead of INTO it. NOW it works

STEP 2: Getting Most of It to Work

So now we have power, we need to know witch wires to use, to control it all.
Look at the schematics for the new box, or if there are 4 actuators, just use the wires as described in the picture.
When this is done, most will work.

STEP 3: The Really Hard Part.

So now we have 3 doors, and a boot working. The driver side doors not working, and the locks will only work in remote control mode.
This is because of the missing actuator in the driver seat door.
So we will have to install one( or get one from Hyunday, but that will be more expensive, than adding this one,as this one was in the kit).
after the pictures i connected black to black, brown to white, and white to brown.
That way, the polarity of the sensor matches the polarity of the actuators movement.

Clean up the wires, redo the plastic for moisture. And your set.

Now my placement, has me pushing the actuator and the door liner. Not a lot, but still.
The setup worked for about 3 days, then the remote stopped working. perhaps, the box cant stand the jolting of the closing door.
This i have still to fix ( could be its just a defective box)
See page 1, where i tell you how i fixed that.

HOW it works.
The control box, electrically  controls the 3 doors + boot AND the extra actuator, that mechanically controls the driver side door.
IF you use the key, to open the driver side door (or the inside handle) THAT mechanically pulls the actuator, sending a signal to the control box, making it electrically open the rest.


THE EVEN EASIER ROUTE.
OK, so instead of messing with the wiring system, just get the + and - from the connector.
Connect this to the control box.
Connect the control box, to the new after marked actuator, placed/connected as show.
DONE.

HOW this works.
The control box, electrically  controls the extra actuator that mechanically controls the driver side door.
The driver  side door original relay, then electrically drives the  3 doors + boot.
IF you use the key, to open the driver side door (or the inside handle) THAT mechanically pulls the actuator, sending a signal to the control box, doing nothing, AND works like it always has, by electrically controlling the 3 doors + boot

STEP 4: The Missing Schematics

mahhhf asked me for some more details, and i agreed that the instructable, missed some schematics.
Well.. here U go. hope its usefill

Comments

[gerhard1956]

Going to soon do similar on Atos Prime. My approach is going to be quite simple.
Install one actuator to remote operate the driver door, the actuator can be master or slave. If I change nothing else, certainly the other doors will follow as per normal central locking operation? Any thoughts on this.

[browsem]

Only one. Jonathan K, apparently did the same, and had problems.
Try it, and if it fails, connect the control box to the wiring that actuates the other doors as well

[browsem]

That is the exact setup i have, so it should work.
i have used a master actuator, and let it control the rest of the doors electrically. If your door can be pulled reliably from the remote controlled one, then no problem

[JonathanK76]

Followed your updated instructions and drivers door works but the actuator seems to trigger so fast the other doors don't unlock/lock most of the time. When locking manually they work every time.
Any ideas?

[browsem]

Sorry im not here all that much, but let me answer anyways, if not because it could help someone else.
Yes i think i have an idea.
Im guessing that you have done the version 2. of my solution. The one where the "new" actuator pulls the original driver side door lock, but doesnt hold it for long enough to get the other doors to react.
I would suggest you do as i originally did.
Let the control box interact with the electric cables to the other doors, and just actuate the driver side door, with the new actuator.
Again. sorry for the late reply

[browsem]

Well just one or two

If i understand you correctly, the drivers door works, but the rest doesnt ?

And the original system is still original ( of course exepting that you "steal" power to the control box, mening the doors should work :-)

If so, then perhaps the new actuator, isnt moving far enough to actuate the driver side door lock, meaning theres no signal, when trying the remote

1) Is it mostly while locking, or is it when opening ? if both... you need another actuater with a longer throw or 3)

2) if its the one, try adjusting the placement of the actuator a little bit.

3) Try giving the non updated system a go.. i newer thought that my systems succes was because i only use the signal from the extra actuator, an drive the other doors from the control box... but it is a possibility.

3a) Before doing this, try using a voltmeter, to see if the actuate signal is comming "out" from your control box... You could just connect a passenger/rear door actuator to verify that its working

Best Browsem

[Gastond10]

Some reason, no power in red and black. Is that the correct source of power?

[browsem]

i would think its red/brown on yours.. these seem the thickest..disconnect the connector, and measure them, using ground as a reference. 1 will be 12+ one will be the same, and the other two, will be signal from the existing door lock

[Gastond10]

Thanks for your answer will try again!

[browsem]

You have the central lock. Are you messing around in the driver side door ?
The unmodified doors function something like this.. 12v+,Gnd,Signal+,Signal- goes to the driver side door. To the other doors, only signal+,signal- go. The driverside door lock, then works as a relay, putting 12+ -> signal+ /gnd <- signal - to open and 12+ -> signal- /gnd <- signal + to lock.

[Gastond10]

I thought the system had no central locking but only a relay in drivers door! This is why i was trying to get the power for the remote module linked to the aculator all that in drivers door!

[browsem]

Ok. So let me get this straight. When you turn the key, in the driver's door, all the others lock/unlock ? If so, you should be able to find 12v there.
If you try with a voltmeter from the wires to gnd what do you get?

[Gastond10]

Again thanks for taking the time to answer. Yes all doors look and unlock from the drivers door when using the key. I did test for 12v and for some reason didn’t find it, also cables are much slimmer than the ones for opening the window! I will try again, i did think it was the red/black cable!

[browsem]

hmm. There should be some sort of potential(voltage) there. The wires for the window will be thicker.. they draw more amps, as they are actually doing some work. Of course there wont be any power there.. unless you only want the thing to work, when rolling up the windows :-P. I see that your cars a hyundai, but witch one ? Perhaps we can find a wire diagram flowing on the big wide internet :-)
Btw. I just looked on my pictures.. seems the brown was +12, and the black ground. Btw. did you pull the connector and meassured directly in that ?

[Gastond10]

Thanks again, yes Hyundai Getz 2007! I did check within the connector but wasn’t get 12v! Will recheck, my daughter was not happy forgot to reconnect the window plug ;)

[browsem]

hmm. ok, the differences between them, must be that mine's a 2009. Heh well i hope it wasn't down then :-)
Well. for the system to work, there HAS to be 12V Out there. As i recall, the position of the actuater i chose made the inner trim push out... not pretty did work. if yours is like mine, it should be possible to place the actuator a bit further forward.
On a side note. I got some feedback, that only leaching power, hadn't worked out.. something about the actuator not pushing far enough to make the relay activate. if you get this problem, use the old schematics. IF you cut the wires, be carefull... DON'T cut them all at the same time, as that WILL give you a short circuit. Btw mine is still going strong

[Gastond10]

Thanks 🙏

[browsem]

Did you succed ?

[Gastond10]

Didn’t work, no 12v and not enough space for the aculator unless i cut metal out! Which i am not doing!

[browsem]

My actuator is hidden on the outside of the metal, under a bulge in the plastic