Introduction: Iron Man - Spider-man Far From Home

About: My name is Jaxen and I enjoy making props from movies, tv, and video games. I continue to learn as I am helped by others on Instructables.

It's been a little while now since I've published an Instructable now, but I decided that I should make another one. Needless to say, I have been a huge Marvel fan ever since I secretly watched Captain America: The First Avenger on Netflix, as I wasn't sure if my parents would have let me or not! After being blown away by the spectacle that was Avengers: Endgame this spring, I was very excited to see the direction that Spider-man Far from Home would go in. I loved the movie, possibly even more than I liked Homecoming, but I could go on for ages talking about how good they both are. My favourite scenes in the movie were when Mysterio put Peter into a conjured up dreamscape, or nightmarescape if you will, and seeing how powerless Peter was until he harnessed his full potential. But the specific part that really got me was when Peter was kneeling at Tony's grave, then a skeletal Ironman begins crawling after Peter. It actually spooked me a little bit in the theatre. Because of that scene, I was determined to make this costume and see how my end product turned out. There are a few alterations that I would make if I did it again (which I will outline at the end), but I am very pleased with how it turned out, and I hope that it can give you a little inspiration if you need it! Enjoy!


- Cardboard (lots and lots of cardboard)

-Toilet Paper

-White Glue

- Paint (Metalic Red, Normal Red, Brown, Silver, Gold, Black)

- Hot Glue Gun (And a lot of hot glue sticks)

- Paracord or String

- Magnets (optional)

- Simple Hairband

- 2 Very Small LED Flashlights

- 2 LED Dot Push Lights

- Laser Pointer

- Aircast

- Dirt Biking Chest Protector

- Black Grease Paint

- Tan Foundation Makeup

- A Sock or Other Partly See-Through Fabric

- Fake Moss

- Fake Spiders (or real spiders if you crazy enough!)

Step 1: Helmet

For the helmet, I could not tell what model the suit was in the film, so I just decided to use the Mk 43 helmet template supplied by DaliLomo. I have used his templates for quite some time now and he always has awesome designs that are easy to follow, so check out his YouTube channel at or his Blogspot at However, after looking at some of the pictures, you'll see that I made some modifications. to begin, I glued the faceplate right to the helmet. I did this so that the helmet would keep its shape, as I found that if I didn't, then it would bee too narrow and squeezed on my head. Also, I just didn't need it to be able to lift it up that badly, but if you decide to do that, it would be awesome and I'd love to see how you do it! Also, for the backplate, I just used a piece from a sock so that it had enough elasticity to stretch, and I put magnets on the tips so that it would lock in place after I put the helmet on. To give it a worn metal kind of look, I did a toilet paper papier-mache so that it was not completely smooth. For all of the buried effects, I just used some silver paint and used a technique as if I was drawing a quick sharp line on it, and then for the mud, I used brown paint, centralized in one spot, then worked outwards. Be sure to be generous with the paint, as it is easy to add more, but more difficult to take it off. Lastly, for the cobwebs, I just used dollar store cobwebs, caught it on a sharp edge, and then carefully ripped away to let it snag and wrap around the helmet.

Step 2: Headband Lights

This step is fairly short. I had originally planned on using interior car lights, but I recognized that this would be the cheaper and easier option, and that it would likely yield better results. For this step, it is just important that you have the helmet completed already, as it will be a process of trial and error to get them in the right location. For the light that lights up the eyehole, it is fine to have it pointing straight forwards and the fabric of the eyehole will disperse the light, but for the second light you need to have it pointed downwards or you will be blinding people all night.

Step 3: Glove and Arm Bracer

For this step, I once again used the template by Dali Lomo, but you will only need to do one hand unless you would like to do both. I used just a cheap black glove to keep everything attached. I used a frozen pizza box for most of the parts, but for the piece on the back of the hand, I chose to use a thicker piece of cardboard to give it some depth and weight. On the palm, this is where you are going to your first of the push lights. You can hot glue it if that works for you, but my lights from the Dollar Tree had adhesive backs and I just reinforced with hot glue. For the bracer, I began with one piece of cardboard with a rip at one end since id added the nice bit of stressing that I was looking for. This was not quite long enough, so I cut another strip of cardboard and glued it to the end like a small cuff. Just make sure that either you can fit your hand through the hole left at the end, or you could include a strap that allows you to adjust it or clip it together.

Bonus: I also decided to add a laser pointer to this. By gluing it to the side of the push light, I was able to push its button with my thumb and give the effect of welding or shooting a laser without making it look awkward.

Step 4: Chest Piece

My original intentions for this project were to make the chest piece out of cardboard as well; however, being a little short on time, I decided that I needed a quick solution. This solution was a dirt biking chest protector that I found at Value Village for around $12.00 CAD. after having it painted, I still decided that it needed some modifications. The first modification that I made was to add a cardboard containing piece for my arc reactor, which is just the second push light. I began bt drawing out a large equilateral triangle, then from each corner I cut out a narrow triangle to allow the pieces to bend. with some trial and error, I eventually ended where I was happy. To dim down the light, I cut a piece from a plastic shopping bag and glued it to the front. I also added some cardboard around the neck as it felt too "open" and exposed without it. When I first began this project, I began with a different template for Dali Lomo's Mk 4 helmet, but I scaled it way too big. This ended up being perfect as I used the faceplate for this collarbone guard. Then for the shoulders, I just cut some rectangles and glued them in place, and for the back of the shoulders, I just used some scrap pieces that I liked the shape of. Do not glue the back shoulder pieces together, as to get your head through the hole at the top, you will need this piece to be not completely rigid. Then on the back, I cut some trapezoids and folded them into some rocket boosters just below the shoulders. To fill in all of the holes that were on the chest piece, I decided that the easiest way to do this would be to just cover the entire inside with paper. This way, I could just paint the holes from the outside once the holes were filled in. I also made a last-minute shoulder pad, which was just a rounded piece of cardboard that I gave a slight bend to.

Step 5: Shoulder

This was also a last-minute pice that I quickly did to add some more to the costume. To do this one, I just took another rectangle of cardboard that was ripped at one end and painted it to how I thought looked appropriate. I poked a hole in each side, then ran a piece of paracord along the open edge to make it snug on my upper arm. Just make sure not to make it too tight so that it does not cut off circulation.

Step 6: Boot

The last step of construction in this costume is the boot. The frame for this was an aircast. I was lucky enough to see one at my local Value Village and it gave me the inspiration to use it. If you are not able to get your hands onto an aircast, I am sure that using a normal boot will work as well, but it was nice to have something hard to be able to attach the cardboard to. I did not use any template for cutting out the cardboard, instead, I chose to go by trial and error. I began by cutting L shaped panels for the each side of the boot, then gluing them down. Next, I focussed on the back and put some over top and some underneath to give each plate some depth. Using the trapezoid method that I used for the backplate, I made some little rocket pieces. For the top of the foot, I just used a couple of rectangular pieces and again did some stacking. For the toe, I had some left over cardboard from the face mask. I liked the shape for it, so I just bent it and glued it in place. On the shin plate, I cut out a large rectangle, then cut it to have the same form to fit with the panels coming around from the back. I glued 3 paracord strings to the plate and to the boot so that it could open and close. On the other side, I glued a magnet to the boot and one to the plate so that they would lock in place once the plate was in place and the foot was in the boot. Along the bottom of the boot, I just took a strip of cardboard about 2 cm wide, cut small triangles every 5 cm or so, and wrapped it around to make it look like it had a little bit of tread.

Step 7: Additional Pieces

To add the skeleton appearance, I had to go out and by a skeleton costume. I was able to pick one up from Walmart for about $15.00 CAD, so that worked out nicely. If I had a little bit more time, I would have tried to make my own either by painting a bodysuit, or the method that bekathwia lays out in her Instructable, found here: For the facepaint, I did not get any really good photos of it, but I just used a prop skull for a reference and tried to rush it since I was already running late for my party! I used black grease paint, and since I wanted my skull to be a little bit dirtier and more tan looking than bright white, I chose to use a foundation that I just bought at the dollar store. I am in no way a makeup artist, so if you would like a really detailed skull, there are many talented artists on this website that you can check out. I began with the black parts in the orbital socket and the jaw bone, then I used a light foundation to fill in the rest, then went over it again with a slightly darker foundation. On my neck, I also put in some bones so that it was not left completely black. I had also intended on painting my hand that did not have a gauntlet on it, but I did not get the chance to and I did not want to be leaving body paint everywhere, so I just put on a black glove.

Step 8: Conclusion and Reflection

All things considered, I am pleased with how this costume turned out. It certainly helps when people have made templates for you already and I truly appreciate them. Again, please check out Dali Lomo, they are a great creator and they make so much awesome stuff! If I was to do this costume again, I think that the biggest issue that I had was with the boot. I should have cut the cardboard the other way so that I could have rounded it with the grain instead of against it. The way that I cut it, it ended up being flat with very little roundness or room for my shin to move. when I first tried to walk, I wound up causing the front plate to split open, so to get it to stay shut, I just had to hotglue it shut and keep my foot in the boot throughout the night. Ultimately, it was a great night. If you guys make a similar costume I would love to see it, and if you have any questions, leave them in the comments and I can try to answer them. Thank you all for taking the time to look at my project! Thanks for visiting and keep on building!

Halloween Contest 2019

Participated in the
Halloween Contest 2019