Introduction: Jurassic World Timber Platter

About: I am a 22 year old woodturner from Sydney. I have been wood turning for about 6.5 years and have completed my apprenticeship in cabinetmaking. I left my full time work to try and make it as a wood turner

Jurassic world was amazing and it inspired me to make this. Using basic turning, carving and an image transfer, I was able to create this.

310mm x 310mm x 20mm timber (australian red cedar)


paper and ink

masking tape



wood lathe

gouge and skew chisel

band saw


laser jet printer (important)

carving tools (v tool)


Step 1: Turning the Back of the Platter

After roughly cutting a circle on the band saw, I drilled a shallow hole with a 50mm forstner bit. Using the chuck I attached the blank to the lathe. With platters I like to use the tailstock to apply pressure. I use a small disc of pine to prevent the live center from marking the platter.

I started to shape the bottom using a gouge. Make light cuts from the inside to the outside, taking more off the edge to create an even curve. Clean up the tool marks with a scraping cut using the skew chisel. After shaping the edge, sand from 120 to 400 grit. I aim for approx 50% of the shape to be flat for the bottom to sit well.

To finish up the bottom, remove the tails stock and remove the last of the waste. Make sure that it is slightly concave. Sand through the grits to finish it off.

Step 2: Glue Chuck

To have no sign of chucking I use hot glue. I always use a block of cedar because its the softest timber I have. I apply 3 or 4 small dabs of glue on the waste block. Quickly position it on the platter. I give the lathe a quick spin to ensure it is as close to center as possible. You still have a few seconds to move it slightly. Once it is set, turn it so it is round. This is a great tenon to attach to with the chuck for shaping the inside of the platter. Providing you don't use really heavy cuts it will hold.

Step 3: Turning the Face

Start by shaping the rim. Its thin so use light cuts as it will flex a bit. I also normally use the tail stock here as well. Use a gouge to remove the waste working towards the center. Regularly check the depth so you dont go too thin. Use your fingers to gauge thickness too.

Step 4: Clean Up the Bottom

Most of the time a chisel will separate the block but it was feeling a bit thin so I took no chances and cut it with a saw. Clean the last off with a chisel. Check the grain direction or you may get tear out, as I did. Sand it out with an orbital sander. Now for the fun parts

Step 5: Image Transfer

This is a trick that I learnt a few years back. It works by using terps to reactivate the ink of the print out and push it onto the timber.

Step 1: Make sure you have a well sanded surface that is dust free. It wont work on surfaces sanded with course grit. Aim for 240 grit or higher.

Step 2: Size and print out your image on an ink jet printer. It doesnt work on a laser printer. Also invert your image. This is Particularly important for letters

Step 3: Tape it down upside down so that it is as secure as possible.

Step 4: Wet the back of the picture with terps so that it is see through.

Step 5: Use the back of the spoon to push the image into the timber. Make sure you go over all the ink. Keep going for a few minutes to ensure that.

Step 6: Let it dry. It should take too long

It is recommended to do practices. Different timbers react differently. It is best to have tight grained, lighter coloured timbers. I have tried coloured inks however black is better

Step 6: Carving the Scratches

Mark out the scratches with a pencil. Using the V tool to make light cuts. For the cross hatch I did one pass on each scratch. Another set of scratches I did 3 passes, getting deeper in the middle. Have one hand anchoring the tool and the other pushing the tool along the timber.

Step 7: Bite Mark

To do this I roughly cut out the shape using the band saw. Using the dremel and the cylindrical bur I worked the shape into the cut. I rocked it back and forth to relieve strain on the cutter.

Step 8: Finish

Sand away pencil marks and tool marks from the carvings.

To finish I used sanding sealer and lacquer. Start with light dust coats. If it is too wet it will affect the ink. Build up a few layers with the sealer and then cut back. After that I coated it with satin lacquer.

Im very happy with the image transfer and the scratches. The only think that I would work on is the shape of the bite to make it more of a tear. Something for next time. Good luck with your projects

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