Introduction: Kayak Lights
There are 3 kayaks in the night time photo. Can you see them? Probably not because they are not well lite up with a deck light and so stand a good chance of being crashed into be another boat. This tutorial is on how to make a kayak deck light. It costs about $4 to make.
There were two main problems to overcome when designing a deck light:
- The Light needs to be held on the deck of the kayak.
- The Light needs to be seen.
To secure the light to the kayak deck, a holder was made from a beverage can, filled with cement. This holds the torch vertically and the weight of the cement lowers the centre of gravity - adding to stability. Some anti-slid mat was glued to to the bottom for added grippy-ness. To further secure the holder, it will be secured to the kayak deck with some duct tape.
The original idea was to make a light reflector from the wire of a champagne bottle top, with the concave bottom of a beer can on top. While this reflected the light well, It didn't defuse the light and so was too bright to look at. The bottle from a spray bottle was found to defuse the light well. It may even mean the light will float should it go into the water.
Supplies
Small water proof Torch ($2)
500ml spray bottle ($1.99)
Aluminium beverage can
Plastic sheet (an old flexible cutting board was used)
Anti-Slip mat (the stuff which grips)
Cloth tape
Insulation tape
Cement
Water
Step 1: Cut Hole in Can
- Draw a circle, the diameter of the small torch, on top of an aluminium beverage can.
- Cut out the circle - a rotary tool can help with this.
Step 2: Remove Bottom of Can
- Remove the bottom of the beverage can using a craft knife and trim with scissors.
- Cut down the sides of the can about halfway, 8 times around the can
Step 3: Prepare the Can for Cement Pour
- Place some Sellotape over the hole you made previously.
- Cover the small torch with gladwrap (Cling film) so when the cement is poured it will not stick to it.
- Check the torch will slide out after the cement is poured and set. On one of my holders the torch body came in a bit and a 'persuader' was required to bash it out of the set cement. This could have been avoided by wrapping some tape to make a straight cylinder shape.
- Fold out the previously cut strips from around the can. These will form the base of the holder.
- Stick in the torch into the centre of the can, aligned with the hole.
Step 4: Cement Pour
- Mix up some cement and pour around the sides of the torch.
- Use a paint stirrer to jiggle up and down in the cement to remove air bubbles
Step 5: Allow Cement to Set and Remove Torch
- After the cement has set, but is still 'green', remove the torch.
- Place a loop of cloth tape around the base of the holder, next to where the aluminium strips go out.
- Remove any excess cement.
Step 6: Make Base
Finish off making the base:
- Place short strips of cloth tape over the aluminium strips to make a strong, flexible base.
- Draw out a topping base loop on a suitable plastic sheet and cut out. I used a flexible chopping board.
- Glue on some anti-slip matting to the bottom of the base with contact adhesive.
- Glue on the topping loop.
- Cut around the outside to the toping loop to trim the other layers of the base.
Step 7: Add a Light Defuser
- Cut off the neck of a 500 ml spray bottle, using a hacksaw and enlarge the hole to just fit the torch head. I found a rotary sanding tool was useful for enlarging the hole.
- Insert the top of the torch just into the spray bottle.
- Secure the head of the torch to the bottle with some insulation tape.
- Insert the torch into the base.
- Tape base of the Light holder to the deck of a kayak using duct tape.