Keep Me Cool Portable Air Conditioning Cooler 120V
Intro: Keep Me Cool Portable Air Conditioning Cooler 120V
STEP 1: Gather Stuff
- Cooler (found mike kicking around my shed)
- Couple of larger AC fans, I got mine from a K&N Air Filter display that my local Auto Parts Stores was throwing out when they were going out of business
- Coil setup from a Fridge that is being discarded. Keep an eye out in the neighborhood on garbage day.
- Old Air Purifier fan, or any 6ish inch fan that you can find
- Toilet Drain Flange, Hardware Store (Orange, Blue or Green)
- Shower Drain, again found at a Hardware Store (Orange had this one)
- Fountain Pump, Harbor Freight.
- 7" Duct Elbow, Hardware Store
Misc tools
Screwdriver
Hammer
Drill
Angle Grinder
Jig Saw
Etc
STEP 2: Prep the Fans
I started by breaking apart the K&N display, and I left the surrounding plastic parts on there. It helped with the mounting! I then took apart the Air purifier, and removed the motor. Sorry, I don't have more pics of this step. But in order to easily mount the motor, I used my angle grinder and ground away the plastic except for the actual 'mount' holder. It fits nicely into the Shower Drain. You will see this in upcoming steps.
STEP 3: Hack the Cooler
Now that the fans are out of the large case, I took a piece of cardboard and outlined a hole slightly bigger than the fans, but still smaller than the surrounding plastic. I also cut a hole for the toilet flange to fit into. I also, when I was done, fully removed the underside ribbed portion of the cooler, it just makes everything easier to work with.
STEP 4: Load Up the Fins, Fans, and Flange
Amazingly, the fridge fins fit almost PERFECTLY under the hood!
I snared some 11/32 PCV hose, from the same parts store that was closing, and hooked it to the trimmed ends of my fins. One for the uptake, and one for out. I didn't want to be distracted all day with the sound of the water dripping out, so another hose should allow the output to flow under the water line.
The pump just sits in the bottom of the cooler using suction cups, and I cut a hole in the top of the cooler to allow the power cord to come out.
I decided to hold up the radiator fins in the lid by using some 6MM threaded rod (had it in stock).
I simply cut it to length across the lid and 'threaded' them to hold the unit up.
I mounted my fans and my flange.
The fans will blow down into the cooler.
I cut a hole for the power cord from the fountain pump.
note, I found some Peel-N-Seal caulking on clearance at my local hardware store, so I picked it up. This way, I can caulk everything and if I see I did something wrong, or want to re-do something I can just peel up the caulk. As you can probably tell from the pictures, the caulk was pretty old, and about half set in the tube. I had to cut the tube open from the side and just work it like play-doh
STEP 5: Hook Up the Pump
Here Is how I hooked up the pump. I just cut off the ends of my fins and hooked up my PCV hose. I then connected the end of one of the hoses to the pump, which just mounts on the bottom of the cooler with suction cups, to the pump outlet, and secured with a hose clamp. It seemed a little loose.
STEP 6: Add the Drain and Exhaust Fan
I then mounted the fan, and gorilla glued the speed control knob to the other side. I got out my liquid electrical tape and gave all the connectors a good coat around the edges, 'cause that's how I roll.
STEP 7: Add Duct and Get Ready to Roll!
Since I drilled out the bottom section, I got it to be a nice tight fit, then just used two sheet metal screws to hold it together. I didn't go too tight, this was it is still adjustable.
STEP 8: Chill
Now fill the cooler with cold water and Ice, and Chill!
So far so good! Nice and cold, but it's only been mid 80's outside, so about 90 in the shed. I guess the real test will be when it's over 100!
My only concern so far is that the 158GPH pump may not be enough. They make a 260ish one at Harbor freight, so I may have to upgrade to that in the future!
STEP 9:
It's been a while but I have some rough figures....
The ambient temperature in my shed lat summer was 112F
I could not do a cool down estimate as the door was open because I used this to cool my equipment for an outdoor move theater.
using 2 - 15# bags of ice I was able to produce a "cool factor", cold air blowing at 42F out of the cooler for a duration of at least 8 hours, we finished the movie and went to bed after that, so it may have been longer...
this is a nice option for equipment cooling!
48 Comments
T0BY 8 years ago
Norsefalconer 12 years ago
etcmn 10 years ago
digitalmonkeyman 12 years ago
PACW 12 years ago
etcmn 10 years ago
digitalmonkeyman 12 years ago
tzsch 12 years ago
etcmn 10 years ago
ekbruster 12 years ago
showbizkid83 12 years ago
Caleb93 12 years ago
Bednarz 12 years ago
Bednarz 12 years ago
Your only real concern with an overpowered pump is if it's generating a lot of heat and pumping warm water up into your heat exchanger and/or melting the ice too fast. The idea is to keep your fins as cold as possible so the more cold water you move through it the better.
Don't run de-ionized water for any length of time. De-ionized water has a habit of trying to pull ions from whatever it's running through, speeding up your corrosion issues.
Instead of salt, add some alcohol to your mix (grain or rubbing) it has the same temperature lowering effect but won't corrode. The pump has a warning about being used with fuels, but if you keep the mix reasonable it shouldn't be a problem.
I'd be interested in hearing what this set up does to the humidity in your shed, since you're blowing warm room air over the ice before blowing it over your fins.
Er. Arun 12 years ago
_Scratch_ 12 years ago
wblack3 12 years ago
Lindie 12 years ago
lucky3448 12 years ago
trike road poet 12 years ago
I'm building one of these in a 12 volt mode for my pickup, to sit on the back seat.
Cool the truck cab while driving and not use the fuel hungry Auto AC. With only two computer fans and a small submersible pump to run, this will use a lot less power then the Auto AC electric clutch, and less fuel to make the few extra watts of power to run the cooler. Add in a simple valve and hose to drain excess melt water outside the cab means not having to haul it out to drain it and straining the back.
Will detail the build and make an instructable when its complete. Will also test it against auto unit for cooling. I intend to put the coil outside the ice container to cool cab air and not introduce extra humidity to the cab, dripping enough sweat now! By channeling cab air only through the cooling coils, I can have dry cool air and no extra cab humidity do deal with.
Its the ones who try things that find answers, and no amount of armchair design beats a hands on trial and error for building real knowledge. thankfully here at instructables, we can learn from each other.