Lazy Susan, End Table, Clock or Stool Seat

I will preface this by saying a lot of tools were used and that my builds have all been for lazy susans, but they are all capable of being used as end tables or bar stool even a clock if you have the necessary hardware.

Supplies

Fallen Eucalyptus tree. (any wood will do

Chainsaw

Planer / router sled & router / a lot of patience

2 part epoxy resin

resin pigment

mixing cups

stirring sticks

heat gun

level

hot glue or caulk

non porous work surface

Step 1: Step 1: Cutting Rounds

I live in a place where trees have very shallow roots and when we get strong winds large trees have a tendency of falling in your neighbors pool or various other places around town.Now I listed eucalyptus for this build as it is the wood I had available to me but any tree should work well enough. Eucalyptus does have the tendency to crack splendidly as it dries though and so is perfectly suited for our purposes here.

In cutting rounds off this particular tree I had to make multiple passes as the tree was 24-27 inches in diameter and my chainsaw bar is only 18 inches long.

One important note about chainsaw use. Keep the chain away from dirt. This was my first foray into using a chainsaw and the second it touches dirt your chain will dull. Do what you have to get the log off the ground and possibly rent a saw with a longer bar than your project is wide to make the process faster for yourself.

Step 2: Step 2: Surfacing the Round

This next bit is or can be a very time consuming process. If you are fortunate enough to have a large planer that can handle your rounds this can go rather quickly. If however you're like me and still amassing tools then you won't be so lucky. Also this will be end grain planing and from what I understand is not typically recommended.

I instead built a router sled after watching a couple youtube videos on the subject. Why do I need this? because the chainsaw leaves massive grooves in the rounds and that doesn't make for a pretty surface and because i had to cut the rounds from both sides of the log they weren't exactly symmetrical. With the sled you will want a plunging router to have any easier time taking off manageable depths of material. You will also want to be able to secure the work piece in place so as not to have it rocking or sliding while surfacing the wood.

Once you have the wood secured to the sled you simply pass your router back and forth across all pieces with a surfacing bit until you are satisfied with thickness and smoothness. Whether you have a plunging router or not you will have to constantly raise the work piece to achieve this.

I only surfaced 1 side of the rounds so that it would have a flat surface to place down for resin pouring. It may be the wiser thing to go ahead and surface both sides before the next step, but that is up to you.

Now my pieces kind of exploded from rapid drying and cracking and became harder to work with in a sense. This did make for more fun patterns in the colored resin fill in however.

Step 3: Step 3: Putting It Back Together

As mentioned before, my rounds broke into multiple pieces and so I had to puzzle them back together. (Another time consuming project). Now I chose a slow curing 2 part epoxy for joining all the pieces and added various pigments to my liking for each project.

I unfortunately made the first couple of these by pouring the resin on top of a garbage bag where i had reconstructed the rounds. I had no way to stop resin from leaking everywhere other than creating a short wall with bag itself and so, much resin was wasted. To solve this problem I purchased a large whiteboard and once the round was puzzled together used a silicone based caulk to seal outer cracks as well as the wood to the whiteboard.

Once the resin is cured, if you haven't already, surface the other side of the project so that both sides are now level. If you need/want to at his point you should seal the wood or stain it whatever color you want and you may even want to polish the resin you have had to surface with your router or planer.

Choose which side you want to be face up and put a clear coat over the entire thing. Use the heat gun or a torch to pop any air bubbles that arise.

Sand and re pour resin as needed to get your desired results.

Step 4: Step 4: Adding Hardware

Finally we arrive at the point where we choose what the round will become. As previously stated all of mine have been lazy susans, but could easily be an end table, bar stool or even a clock if so desired.

Use whatever legs or appropriate bearings you may have to finalize the project. Sit back and admire your handywork.