Lichtenberg Resin Guitar




Introduction: Lichtenberg Resin Guitar

About: I want to be a maker, and I am currently practicing and honing my skills. As I get better I will do more and more instructables!

Techniques for how I learned about controlling the Lichtenberg Burns can be found here:

or under my profile!


I was gifted a build your own guitar kit a long, long time ago and was always held up by how to finish it. I've had this guitar for at least 10 years now and have yet to find a way I wanted to decorate it until recently! While browsing Youtube I found a video with a guy burning cool fractal designs into wood using a device called a Lichtenberg Wood Burner. These devices output between 2500 - 10000 volts of electricity using microwave transformers wired together. This means to do this project you MUST use EXTREME CAUTION if you build and use this device. I have not created an instructable on how to build the Lichtenberg Wood Bruner, but if you guys would like me to create one drop a line in the comments and if I get enough hype on it I totally will!

This project I'm doing is starting with burning the designs in the bare wood all the way to filling the burns with resin and finishing the guitar. Don't forget to vote for me if you like what I did!

Step 1: Materials

What I used in this project w/ Affiliate Links (some models under the links may be the updated model to mine)

1. Hammer -

2. Palm Sander (not exclusively needed) -

3. Journeyman's Gloves -

4. 5 Gallon Bucket (just used as an insulated stand) -

5. Power Strip -

6. Box Fan -

7. Sandpaper from 80 grit to 2000 grit

8. Resin -

9. Rags/Towels

10. Syringes -

11. Mica Powder

a. Blue Powder -

b. Yellow Powder -

c. Luminescent Powder -

12. Popsicle Sticks -

13. Latex Gloves -

14. Wipe on Polyurethane -

15. Wood Stain (colour of your choice) -

16. Nails

17. Rotary Tool w/ Bits

a. Dremel -

b. Engraving Kit -

18. Hot Glue Gun w/ Glue Sticks -

19. Air Compressor -

20. Denatured Alcohol -

21. Jello Shot Cups -

22. Thermometer -

23. Moldable Wire

24. Safety Glasses -

25. Paint Brushes -

26. Foam Brushes -

27. Baking Soda -

28. Wood Bleach -

29. Bowl

30. Toothbrush -

31. Duct Tape -

32. Ratio Mixing Cups -

33. Large Tub

34. Vegetable Oil -

35. Linseed Oil -

36. Nail File -

37. Steel Wool -

38. Wire Brush -

Step 2: Burning the Wood

Materials Used in this step:

To start this whole process we will need to burn the fractal designs into the guitar using a Lichtenberg Wood Burning machine. Aside from the machine, you will need these items for this part of the project:

1. Baking Soda

2. Bowl

3. 5 Gallon Bucket (used as an insulated stool)

4. Box Fan

5. Power Strip

6. Safety Glasses

7. Journeyman's Gloves

8. Nails

9. Hammer

10. Paint Brush

11. Wire Brush

12. Vegetable Oil

Mixing the Electrolytic Solution

To start we will grab our bowl and add 4TBS of baking soda and 4C of water. Mix the solution until cloudy and mix every time you have to come back to it if you have baking soda in the bottom of the bowl.

Setting up the Work Area

Next, we will set up our work area. You will need a table to place your Lichtenberg Wood Burning machine on the edge of a table and plug it into your power strip. We are placing the machine on the edge of the table so our jumper cables can reach the wood.

Approximately 3-5ft in front of the table place your wooden bucket and the piece of the guitar you're getting ready to burn on top.

Place your box fan in a suitable area where it is both out of the way, but can provide enough coverage over the surface area of the wood being burned and don't forget to plug it into the power strip!

Prepping the Wood

Now it's time to prep the wood for burning! We will need to hammer in nails to act as nodes to place our jumper cables. I hammered in approximately 6/7 nails on the sides of the guitar, 6 on the front of the guitar, and as needed on the back of the guitar.

Once the nails are in and the guitar is placed on the 5-gallon bucket you can take your paint brush and your baking soda solution on the area you would like to start to burn. I decided to start on the sides of the guitar and wet the areas between the first 2 nails.

Dawn the Gear and Burn!

Once saturated you can put on your Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) the journeyman's gloves and safety glasses. Once fully protected you can connect your jumper cables to the first 2 nodes and turn on your wood burning machine!

Protecting the Neck

When I got to the neck of the guitar to burn, I coated the fretboard in vegetable oil to help prevent the water from burning it. I only applied one thick coat and had mild success (had a few small burns make it onto the fretboard) and would recommend recoating every 5 to 10 minutes to help mitigate burning the fretboard even more.

Cleaning the Burn

After successfully burning your wood you will need to run it under some water and use your wire brush to scrape out all of the dust and burned wood. This will help to define details and give you more room when it comes time to resin, it also helps with lightening the colour a little bit.


During this, I found the guitar was made of extremely hard wood. This resulted in very slow burnings and I ended up having to leave the machine on and pour on the baking soda solution. THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND IS VERY DANGEROUS! Overall though the burns I got were amazing looking!

Step 3: Wood Bleaching, Sanding, and Staining

Materials used in this step:

1. Wood Bleach

2. Toothbrush

3. Palm Sander

4. Sandpaper 80 grit to 220 grit

5. Wood Stain (colour of your choice)

6. Wire

7. Safety Glasses

8. Denatured Alcohol

Wood Bleaching

Wood bleaching is pretty simple, I only bleach the areas that kept a flame longer than I would have liked or could control and covers too much of the detail in the wood.

To Bleach you will need oxalic acid. you mix 1 heaping TBS per 1 qt of hot water and apply to desired areas with a scrub brush. I ended up using a toothbrush because it has a smaller head and is easier to use. You apply with the scrub brush every 10 minutes until desired lightness is achieved. After desired lightness is achieved you will rinse and scrub thoroughly to ensure all acid is removed from the surface of the wood.

Sanding and Staining

Before I stain the wood I will sand it up to 220 grits. This is so when I sand down the resin later I will only lighten the stain minimally.

I use my palm sander to the hard work and sand the wood from 80 grit all the way up to 220 grit. Once completed I set up the guitar to be stained. To set up my wood I hung wire from the metal beam the garage door follows. Since my wire wasn't long enough I also had to use these metal gas pipe clips to make a chain and suspend the neck and body of my guitar at a suitable height. After achieving a desirable height I popped the lid of my stain, dipped my brush and applied the first coat. After an hour I applied a second coat and achieved the colour I wanted.

To stain you just need to find a colour you like and apply every hour until the desired colour is achieved. You can purchase different coloured stains and paint as desired. For this project, I will only be using stain and 1 colour at that.


Painting the wood can be tricky, if you wish to do this I recommend using acrylic paint with a roller and foam brushes for large areas to help keep the paint out of the burns. After large areas are coated I would then use tiny brushes for more detailed work. I have not done this, but this is how I would start and experiment.

I don't know how the stain would affect the resin if you did resin first then stained. You can squeegee resin off so you don't have to sand, but I found this can cause divits in the resin dues to sinking in. I prefer to coat in excess and sand off to prevent this a much as I can.

Step 4: Resin

Materials used in this step:

1. Resin

2. Mica Powder

3. Popsicle Sticks

4. Syringes

5. Denatured Alcohol

6. Duct Tape

7. Towel/Rag

8. Jello Shot Cups

9. Ratio Mixing Cups

10. Safety Glasses

11. Latex Gloves

12. Palm Sander

13. Sandpaper 80 grit to 1500 grit

14. Rotary Tool w/ Bits (only needed if resin doesn't cure)

15. Hot Glue Gun

16. Toothbrush

17. Large Tub

Lesson Learned Resin Application

The resin can be tricky to work with especially on objects such as guitars. This is because it starts out as a 2 part liquid which over time solidifies into a hard durable substance. In short, the guitar has a lot of curves and angles in which the resin can run off. First I attempted to solve this using duct tape and masking off areas I didn't want resin getting into as well as building small walls to hold the resin in place as needed.

The big lesson that I learned during this part of the project are:


I wanted to put that lesson at the beginning so prior to us mixing our resin it's in our heads! I had an issue with my second installment of resin where it didn't completely harden and became this very tacky surface. Obviously, this is not what you want, you want a nice smooth hard glossy surface. All in all after letting it sit for a couple days and realizing it wasn't going to harden I was forced to remove the resin from the burns. During this removal process, I learned that this tacky resin doesn't like to be sanded and for the most part smears, everywhere. There was no easy way to combat this, if you run into this problem you're going to have to sand the surface smooth then use a series of rotary tool bits (I used the small ball head bits) to get inside the burns. All in all, I ended up lightening some of the burns marks some more, but most if not all of the damage was mitigated. This was a huge pain, just mix your resin well!

Prepping the wood

Okay now to get into the next lesson I learned about prepping the wood! So as stated above I started with duct tape with pretty mild success, but found that hot glue allows for much better control and is mildly easy to remove from the resin once hardened! It is recommended to outline, dam up, and build levy's to hold in the resin in area's that have lower profiles and collect resin. This will allow you to put enough resin in the burn to create a near even layer even though you're fighting gravity, it requires a bit more sanding at the end, but makes for much better resin placement and far less runoff!

Mixing Resin and Pigment Powders

After you have prepped your wood and dammed up what you needed we're ready to mix the resin. I found smaller batches of resin worked the best and that little does go a long way. I generally mixed 50ml of part A and 50ml of part B (my resin is a 1:1 ratio) for a total of 100ml of resin. Once mixed thoroughly I set up 3 jello shot cups and place a tiny bit of mica powder in the bottom of the cups. I'm using a pearl yellow, a translucent yellow, a pearl blue, a clear dark blue, and a clear light blue. When it comes to the mica powder less is more, I only add extra of the photoluminescent powders to give a stronger glow. I'm combining my yellow powders together and my dark blue powder with my pearl blue powder together. This way all three colour combinations have a glow in the dark capability.

Applying Resin

Once my powders are added I pour the resin into the jello cups approximately half way up the cup and mix my powders in just as thoroughly as I mixed the resin parts together. This is where the syringes come in. For better and more controlled application I use syringes to apply the resin to the burns. After filling my 3 syringes I generally lay the resin in a |yellow|blue|clear| pattern until the resin slightly overflows from the burns. My thoughts on this pattern is that I'm creating little rivers, so the gold is the dirt, the blue is the deep water, and the clear is the top water. The clear also helps to create more definition and depth to the blue and yellow colours, I really like how it turned out in my test projects so I kept too it.

Alrighty, it took a total of 6 resin applications to completely fill the guitar! 1 extra than needed because I screwed up 1 of the pours. Once your resin is completely cured and hard to the touch (I found 5 to 6 hours to be a good wait) we can sand!

Lesson Learned Staining Edition

So here's the next lesson that I learned:

Hardwood sucks at soaking in stain in depth.

During my practice projects, I was using plywood which I stained then sanded and got awesome results of half-faded half stained look which I loved! With the hardwood of the guitar, this was not the case. When fixing my resin screw up I found that I was not going to be able to save the stain from the sanding like I thought I would be able to do.


With that being said I sanded down all the resin using 80 grit sandpaper and my palm sander following the curves of the guitar to shape the resin back into proper placement. Then I stepped up to 120 and then 220 with my palm sander making sure I was following the grain of the wood and continuing the last little bit of resin clean up.

Once I could no longer use my palm sander I filled a big tub full of water, grabbed my toothbrush, and scrubbed all the dust out of the cracks and crevices of the guitar. I repeated this process as I stepped up my sanding from 320 grit, 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, and 1500 grit sand paper. Once I reached 800 grit sandpaper though everything could be wet sanded.

Step 5: Note on the Neck

Materials used in this step:

1. Nail File

2. Steel Wool (medium)

3. Linseed Oil

A lot has been learned

A little late on learning that car wax is a great substance to use to coat areas where you don't want resin to stick too... so I got resin on the edges of my fretboard. To clean up this disaster I used a nail large nail file and steel wool. I used the nail file to get the big bulbous areas and areas on the frets that were covered, this worked well, but due to sanding the fretboard became discoloured. I then used the steel wool to get rid of the scratches from the file and to help even out the entire fretboards colour. This really smoothed out the fretboard and gave it a much nicer feel, it did make it look very very dried out though... This is where the Linseed oil comes in! After reading various guitar forums I came to the conclusion that Linseed oil is a great oil to help finish and restore fretboards.

Step 6: Finishing the Guitar

Materials used in this step:

1. Wipe-On Polyurethane

2. Sandpaper 1500 grit to 2000 grit

3. Rag/Cloth

4. Stain (colour of your choice)

5. Foam Brush


After screwing up my first coat of stain I decided to restain the guitar. To do this I followed the same process as before, I hung my guitar pieces up on wire and foam brushed on the stain. After an hour I could apply the wipe-on poly.

Wipe-On Polyurethane Application

To apply the first coat of poly I grabbed my 1500 grit sandpaper and sanded it in. This is so the poly and the dust can help seal up the pores and create a more even smooth surface. After about 5 minutes or so I sanded in the second coat of poly the same way I did the first. Now after waiting 30 to 45 minutes I gave the guitar a light sanding at 2000 grit and gently wiped on the poly with my cloth. Then I waited for 3 to 4 hours, lightly sanded and wiped on another coat.

You can apply as many coats as you would like to seal and get the glossy shine to where it fits best. I decided (due to time) that this was plenty of coats and sanded one last time then began the assembly of the guitar.

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    Question 1 year ago

    Good job man, i'm trying to build a bass with epoxy like this one guitar, but i got few questions:

    1) When i sand the resin in excess, i loose the wood stain? If yes, can i restain the guitar with the resin on it?
    2) sanding the resin doesn't make it opaque or dull?
    3) can i use a polish to finish it? I'd like to use this bass when finished, so i need something that lasts over time.

    Thank you

    Sir Mick Morrison
    Sir Mick Morrison

    Answer 1 year ago

    Polyurethane is one of the two most durable finishes, and has been used on instruments by fender. It is what this man used to finish this instrument. Polish would just make the polyurethane more shiny. The other option is nitrocellulose, but there's many additional challenges when using that.


    Reply 1 year ago

    Sorry for the late reply, but hopefully I'm not too late to help!
    1. Yes, when you sand the excess resin you lose the wood stain. You can stain the guitar with resin on it, but I'm not too sure about directly on it. I would do a test spot to see how it goes. When I was doing this project and restained I did my best to wipe off the excess stain on the resin and tried to edge it as much as possible. It was difficult in the small spike areas, but it didn't really seem like it mattered too much.

    2. Sanding does make it opaque and dull. Though you don't have to, I choose to sand up to 3000 grit to make it smooth and less dull. The dullness doesn't really matter though. Once I applied my wipe on poly it fills the small scratches and makes the resin crystal clear again.

    3. What do you mean by polish? As far as I know, though, you can use whatever you want to finish it. I choose poly because it seemed like the best answer, but I'm sure you could even use spray-on acrylic and get the same effect.

    I hope that helps! DM me if you have more questions and I can give you better contact information so you can get better and faster answers.


    Question 2 years ago on Step 6

    The artwork is beautiful. I was wondering why you needed such massive power by using 3 microwave oven transformers. Smaller uWave ovens are 500W and some of the larger ones 1.7kW

    Q1. Did you use 3x of the 500W Transformers ?

    Q2. If so, how does the burn progress using only 1 transformer, then 2 and then 3 respectively.

    Q3. Did you use the high voltage rectifier diodes that come with the uWave ovens to rectify each transformer so that the voltages are uni-polar or did you just connect it straight AC ?


    Answer 2 years ago

    IOkay so I don't have the information right in front of me since I've been moving into a new house and everything is still packed up in a mess so this will all be from memory to the best of my ability!

    Q1. Did you use 3x of the 500W Transformers?

    No, I believe I used a 750W, 900W, and a 1100W transformer. I couldn't calculate the voltage of these though because none of the units specifically said their amps on the box and I just haven't gone through the user manuals to get the data to complete the W=VA formula.

    Q2. How does the burn progress using only 1 transformer, then , and then 3 respectively.

    Well on a piece of 3/4" thick plywood 1 transformer I believe the 900W one burned well, but, slowly. I then jumped straight into 3 transformers and the biggest difference was the burns went much much much faster. So I would theorize the harder the wood the more voltage you are going to want to push through to burn in a relatively timely manner.

    Q3. Did you use the high voltage rectifier diodes that come with the uWave ovens to rectify each transformer so that the voltages are uni-polar or did you just connect it straight AC?

    um..... I just hooked it into AC wired from a SPST switch. Most of that is a bit over my head to be honest, I don't know what rectifying each transformer would do or how to make the voltages uni-polar. I'm still learning and if you could teach me maybe when I make the instructable building the burner I can add this into it so everyone knows! =)

    Thank you for your great questions I hope I was able to answer them to a well enough level please keep asking I'm happy to keep answering and sorry for the delay in response as I said at the beginning I've been moving! ^^


    2 years ago

    That Is the most INSANE!! Guitar I have ever seen bro, nice work keep it up!


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thank you my friend it is very appriciated!


    2 years ago

    I think you can say your guitar has been… THUNDERSTRUCK!
    Great job!


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thank you for the love!


    2 years ago

    i love this look. you did a great job, and I may have to make one of my own... it's a little bit daunting, but I have a couple friends who i think would be totally on board with helping me do the scary stuff.


    Reply 2 years ago

    I agree this project did seem daunting at first, but after I spent some time building my other instructable which talks about all the different expeirements I did to test lichtenberg techniques


    2 years ago

    Well done mate - I am a fellow Lichtenberg Creator too from Thundery Scotland ;-)


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks for the love my friend, stay safe and burn on! =)


    2 years ago

    You are correct about the Lichtenburg Fracking...extremely dangerous, as I do it with my projects. But after you clean it and before you stain you can do a coat of sealer which also helps with the application of your color. Thank you for showing your process...I'm going to be making a cigar box guitar and then an electric one.


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks for the advice, I would love to apply it and see how much better the color turns out! I also want to expirement with the different brands to see how they look and apply compared to each other, do you have any expierence with this? I would love to see your two builds! Cigar Box guitars are amazing, I visited a place called Lowe Mill down in Huntsville Alabama and there's a guy who has a dedicated shop to making Cigar Box guitars, If I can find his name and see if he has a website!

    Folded Shirts
    Folded Shirts

    2 years ago

    Nicely done. Would love to see an instructable on how to make the Lichtenberg Wood Burner!


    Reply 2 years ago

    Okay! I've been moving into my new house over the past few weeks so I haven't been on here to keep up with the comments, but once I get settled in I can certainly get some more microwaves and build one for you guys!!!!


    Reply 2 years ago

    Its extremely dangerous and if you aren't that well adversed with electricity don't try it!


    2 years ago

    This project is absolutely beautiful! Thank you for sharing your experience, including the how NOT to parts! I have read that you can dampen hard wood with some water prior to staining and it helps the stain to absorb better. I would definitely try it on scrap wood first to make sure you know what to expect before applying it to your project. Also, you mentioned about painting the wood, but I thought I might suggest using a deeply pigmented stain instead, so you can still see the wood grain. Unicorn Spit is one brand that you could consider for deep color pigmentation.


    Reply 2 years ago

    You know now that you mention the water dampening it makes sense! I'll definitely check out that brand and add some staining and resin pouring instructions to my other instructable which is a running 'test' of lichtenberg burns and processes I experimented with before I even burned my guitar so I could get a good result and maybe some control lol. I appriciate your kind words it really helps to motivate me to do more projects and share with this amazing online community!