Light-Up Bar Table!
Intro: Light-Up Bar Table!
Using scrap wood, plexiglass, and other small pieces, make tables which glow!
STEP 1: Design
The table top perimeter itself is 7 inches thick. The inside is hollow to allow room for a light fixture and then some for light dispersion. The table top perimeter consists of two 2x4's sandwiching a strip of 1/4" plexiglass. They are just glued together with a some kind of clear industrial glue. The plexiglass strip surfaces are sanded to let the glue better adhere to it.
The actual top consists of two layers of 1/4" plexiglass with a piece of white cloth sandwiched between them. This is done to make the tops opaque and scatter the light better, this way it looks like the top is glowing.
The legs are simple lengths of 2x6's
The triangle sections between the 2x6's and the underside of the table top are just 45 degree cuts out of pieces of 2x6's.
Below is the general design.
The actual top consists of two layers of 1/4" plexiglass with a piece of white cloth sandwiched between them. This is done to make the tops opaque and scatter the light better, this way it looks like the top is glowing.
The legs are simple lengths of 2x6's
The triangle sections between the 2x6's and the underside of the table top are just 45 degree cuts out of pieces of 2x6's.
Below is the general design.
STEP 2: The Plexiglass
I made these last semester and signed up for this website last week, so i didn't think to take pictures of the construction. Sorry.
But if I remember correctly, I think all the plexiglass came from one 4'x6' sheet 1/4" thick. Or maybe it was a little longer. Anyway, the sheet was laid out, measured, and blue masking tape was laid down where ever I needed to make a cut, and the actual line to cut on was marked with a sharpie. The sharpie was good because the thickness of the marker was comparable to the thickness of the saw blade which was going to cut it.
The sheet was laid out on several rows of 2x4's to support it up a few inches to allow room for a circular saw to cut without cutting the table beneath it.
To make a straight cut, something rigid and straight was laid out parallel to the line to be cut, a few inches away to line up the edge of the circular saw with the actual blade. That rigid piece was then clamped to the plexiglass. This would be the guide for the circular saw.
Do no try to do this on a stationary table saw, trying to move the plexiglass, that is a bad idea.
I used just a regular wood saw blade, or maybe it was an all-purpose blade. The most important part of the blade for cutting plexi is a blade which is not warped at all. Give your hand-held circular saw a squeeze on the trigger while staring down the blade, edge-on, and look for any wabble. This indicates a warped blade, which will probably crack your plexiglass.
If you use a jig saw, put it on the slowest setting, because the heat of friction between the blade and the plexi will actually melt the plexi and it will rejoin behind the blade as you advance, then you discover you've accomplished nothing. If this happens, let it cool down for a few minutes, then run back through it again, GOING SLOW.
I had success using the circular saw, the plexi never cracked.
But if I remember correctly, I think all the plexiglass came from one 4'x6' sheet 1/4" thick. Or maybe it was a little longer. Anyway, the sheet was laid out, measured, and blue masking tape was laid down where ever I needed to make a cut, and the actual line to cut on was marked with a sharpie. The sharpie was good because the thickness of the marker was comparable to the thickness of the saw blade which was going to cut it.
The sheet was laid out on several rows of 2x4's to support it up a few inches to allow room for a circular saw to cut without cutting the table beneath it.
To make a straight cut, something rigid and straight was laid out parallel to the line to be cut, a few inches away to line up the edge of the circular saw with the actual blade. That rigid piece was then clamped to the plexiglass. This would be the guide for the circular saw.
Do no try to do this on a stationary table saw, trying to move the plexiglass, that is a bad idea.
I used just a regular wood saw blade, or maybe it was an all-purpose blade. The most important part of the blade for cutting plexi is a blade which is not warped at all. Give your hand-held circular saw a squeeze on the trigger while staring down the blade, edge-on, and look for any wabble. This indicates a warped blade, which will probably crack your plexiglass.
If you use a jig saw, put it on the slowest setting, because the heat of friction between the blade and the plexi will actually melt the plexi and it will rejoin behind the blade as you advance, then you discover you've accomplished nothing. If this happens, let it cool down for a few minutes, then run back through it again, GOING SLOW.
I had success using the circular saw, the plexi never cracked.
STEP 3: Wood!
First, 2x4's were checked to ensure they were straight, and not warped or bent.
-With enough straight 2x4's, they were cut to proper lengths. Not at 45 degree angle yet.
-To start building the walls of the table top, set a 2x4 (which the cross-sectional dimensions are really somewhere around 1-1/2" by 3-3/8") upright, and lay bead of glue down the 1-1/2 top surface. Then take a strip of the sanded plexi and lay it on the bead. Then apply a bead of glue onto the top of the that piece of plexi and then lay another 2x4 on top of that. It is good to do several of these at once and group them close together, but not touching!, so you can put a board on top which covers all of them, so you can add lots of weight on it to squish out the extra glue. This is when you thank yourself you using straight pieces of 2x4 because if one wasn't, it would unevenly distribute the weight, slip, and glue out of alignment.
-With these sections all dry, now you can lay them out on a table with the ends hanging over the side. This gives your circular saw blade room to cut the 45 degree angle now. Another rigid guide was clamped down over the pieces so I could cut 45's on each side in one sweep.
-Cut 45's in the other ends
Line them up as if they were bolted together to form a rectangle and measure the diagonals to make sure you have a close to perfect rectangle.
Also, strips of wood were screwed into the inside perimeter of the walls about a half inch from the top, these edges are going to support the two layers of plexiglass.
-Wood filler was used to help make the joint between the plexi strip and two plywood pieces flush.
-With enough straight 2x4's, they were cut to proper lengths. Not at 45 degree angle yet.
-To start building the walls of the table top, set a 2x4 (which the cross-sectional dimensions are really somewhere around 1-1/2" by 3-3/8") upright, and lay bead of glue down the 1-1/2 top surface. Then take a strip of the sanded plexi and lay it on the bead. Then apply a bead of glue onto the top of the that piece of plexi and then lay another 2x4 on top of that. It is good to do several of these at once and group them close together, but not touching!, so you can put a board on top which covers all of them, so you can add lots of weight on it to squish out the extra glue. This is when you thank yourself you using straight pieces of 2x4 because if one wasn't, it would unevenly distribute the weight, slip, and glue out of alignment.
-With these sections all dry, now you can lay them out on a table with the ends hanging over the side. This gives your circular saw blade room to cut the 45 degree angle now. Another rigid guide was clamped down over the pieces so I could cut 45's on each side in one sweep.
-Cut 45's in the other ends
Line them up as if they were bolted together to form a rectangle and measure the diagonals to make sure you have a close to perfect rectangle.
Also, strips of wood were screwed into the inside perimeter of the walls about a half inch from the top, these edges are going to support the two layers of plexiglass.
-Wood filler was used to help make the joint between the plexi strip and two plywood pieces flush.
STEP 4: Construction
The walls of the table top were connected using 90 degree brackets. Refer to picture.
-Using a builders square, lay out 2 wall pieces to join together so that they are perpendicular. Take a bracket and lay it up against where you think it should screw into the two sections. Use a sharpie to make dots where the screws are going to go, then drill a small pilot hole for the screws that are going to hold the bracket to the wood. Then screw in the the brackets. Do not screw them in tight though, just semi snug, kinda loose.
-repeat the above step for the remaining sections. With all the screws in the brackets kind of loosely snug, measure the diagonals again to make sure you have a perfect rectangle. Once the walls are aligned, tighten each screw a little bit, not the entire way. Its like you're changing a tire, you tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern and you tighten each one a little bit at a time. This ensures you get the tire on squarely ( squarely = word?). This is the same concept with the table sections. If you tighten a few screws all the way at one edge, it would throw off the diagonal measurements off.
-Using a builders square, lay out 2 wall pieces to join together so that they are perpendicular. Take a bracket and lay it up against where you think it should screw into the two sections. Use a sharpie to make dots where the screws are going to go, then drill a small pilot hole for the screws that are going to hold the bracket to the wood. Then screw in the the brackets. Do not screw them in tight though, just semi snug, kinda loose.
-repeat the above step for the remaining sections. With all the screws in the brackets kind of loosely snug, measure the diagonals again to make sure you have a perfect rectangle. Once the walls are aligned, tighten each screw a little bit, not the entire way. Its like you're changing a tire, you tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern and you tighten each one a little bit at a time. This ensures you get the tire on squarely ( squarely = word?). This is the same concept with the table sections. If you tighten a few screws all the way at one edge, it would throw off the diagonal measurements off.
STEP 5: Legs
The legs are simple lengths of 2x6 (which again, is roughly 1-1/2" by 5 -1/2")
Sorry for the shabby picture.
To obtain the triangular sections connected to the top of each leg, cut a square out of a 2x6, so a piece 5.5" by 5.5", then cut the diagonal. They were screwed to the top of the legs through the main legs, just using 2 long wood screws (remember to drill pilot holes!) Also, smaller brackets are used as well to help support them and ensure that the triangular sections would maintain perpendicular-ity (<- word? I don't think so)
Sand all the edges because there are going to be splinters everywhere!
As seen in a picture in the previous step, the legs attach to the underside of the table by lining up with steel dowels (I work in a machine shop, so we have more steel than anything else).
Tape over the exposed edge of the plexiglass strip on the outer perimeter. Take an exacto knife and cut away excess tape so it does not cover the wood because we are going to paint the wood, and do not want the clear plexiglass to be painted over. This step takes some patience.
Sorry for the shabby picture.
To obtain the triangular sections connected to the top of each leg, cut a square out of a 2x6, so a piece 5.5" by 5.5", then cut the diagonal. They were screwed to the top of the legs through the main legs, just using 2 long wood screws (remember to drill pilot holes!) Also, smaller brackets are used as well to help support them and ensure that the triangular sections would maintain perpendicular-ity (<- word? I don't think so)
Sand all the edges because there are going to be splinters everywhere!
As seen in a picture in the previous step, the legs attach to the underside of the table by lining up with steel dowels (I work in a machine shop, so we have more steel than anything else).
Tape over the exposed edge of the plexiglass strip on the outer perimeter. Take an exacto knife and cut away excess tape so it does not cover the wood because we are going to paint the wood, and do not want the clear plexiglass to be painted over. This step takes some patience.
STEP 6: Painted
i sprayed some left over black spray paint just to use it up and maybe have enough to cover everything so i don't need several layers of paint later.
I painted all the wood using Kona Brown, its like a really dark purplish brown, so its almost black. It takes a few coats.
Once its dry, take that exacto knife and re-cut the edges around the tape, if you don't then you might pull up extra paint or it could tear the paint off leaving a noticeably rough edge.
One side of the plexiglass for each table top was spray painted with a frosting effect spray paint, this helps to scatter the light more and make the glowing more even spread.
I painted all the wood using Kona Brown, its like a really dark purplish brown, so its almost black. It takes a few coats.
Once its dry, take that exacto knife and re-cut the edges around the tape, if you don't then you might pull up extra paint or it could tear the paint off leaving a noticeably rough edge.
One side of the plexiglass for each table top was spray painted with a frosting effect spray paint, this helps to scatter the light more and make the glowing more even spread.
STEP 7: Light Fixture
A random piece of 1/4" thick masonite was cut out so that it would fit the bottom inside of the table top. It was spray painted chrome-ish to help reflect some of the light. to the surface, but since the it was a wood surface, it did not turn out that shiny.
The light is just a 2 foot fluorescent bulb. It uses the old school set-up with a separate ballast and switching mechanism.
Also, an outlet was added so that you things sitting on the table top can plug into the table instead of having a long wire going across the room to a wall socket. This also allows one table to plug into another, making it easier to power both.
The light is just a 2 foot fluorescent bulb. It uses the old school set-up with a separate ballast and switching mechanism.
Also, an outlet was added so that you things sitting on the table top can plug into the table instead of having a long wire going across the room to a wall socket. This also allows one table to plug into another, making it easier to power both.
STEP 8: PLUG IT IN!
Enjoy
STEP 9: The Next Instructable to Come.
Check out my "Stainless Steel Jigger/Pony Shot Glass"
the next instructable will be two lights made out of old blind material, scrap fabric, and cyclone fencing.
the next instructable will be two lights made out of old blind material, scrap fabric, and cyclone fencing.
15 Comments
21bose 14 years ago
Great idea
grahmaustin 14 years ago
SirBrittanicvs 14 years ago
grahmaustin 14 years ago
SirBrittanicvs 14 years ago
cryophile 14 years ago
nickfarnell 15 years ago
snarfnugget 15 years ago
nevlis 15 years ago
ninjapants 16 years ago
grahmaustin 16 years ago
shooby 16 years ago
Mr. Rig It 16 years ago
HeWantsRevenge 16 years ago
LinuxH4x0r 16 years ago