Make Safer Table Saw Cuts

Intro: Make Safer Table Saw Cuts

One of the biggest dangers on a table saw is cutting wood that is longer than it is wide.
The problem is that the piece can twist as the cut is finished, this can cause it to get trapped, potentially throwing the piece back at you, or worse, I've heard of the wood getting trapped, and the operator reaching in to free the piece with the horrendous results you can imagine

Follow this Instructable to help mitigate this risk.

I've attached the SketchUp file of my original design. Feel free to edit it to suit your needs.

STEP 1: The Stop Block

To make your stop block you'll need a piece of hardwood of at least 20 mm (0.79") width.
I went for exactly 20 mm as it made the maths easier, if I want to cut a 147 mm piece I just set the saw to 167 mm and make the cut. Go for a measurement that suits you.

You next want to mark up where you're going to drill through the stop block. Hopefully you have a hole in your fence already. If not you will need to drill one as a clearance hole for your chosen coach bolt.
Pick (or drill) a hole that is far enough back from the blade that the cut wood will clear the stop block after the cut.
Hold the stop block to the fence and mark the hole location onto the stop block.

Now you need to fit the coach bolt to the stop block, first drill the larger hole for the bolt head to fit into, this needs to be deep enough that the head is completely below the surface of the stop block. Now drill the clearance hole for the shaft of the bolt, I made mine the exact width of the bolt so it was tight and the bolt didn't drop out.

You can now attach the block to your fence using the coach bolt and butterfly nut, I use a butterfly nut as it's easy to spin on and tighten.

STEP 2: The Cuts and Finished Piece

To make a cut set the saw to the required length + width of stop block.
E.g. If you need a piece at 120 mm you would set the saw fence to 140 push the wood up to the stop block then run it through the saw using the mitre guide.
This method allows for easy repeatable accurate cuts.

Have fun and stay safe.

Comments

[Marcos]

A plastic bolt may be a good option, in the hopefully unlikely event that the blade finds it's way into that block.

Also a good idea: A sacrificial piece of plywood on the face of the fence do the metal one doesn't get damaged and/or damage the blade. Obviously, the scale on the fence will need to be recalibrated to compensate for the added thickness.

See one in action at 07:01 in this video:
https://www.instructables.com/NOPEINO-the-Loose-Tenon-Dominoes-Jig/

[Stevens Workshop]

A plastic bolt would be overkill as once the block is fitted to the fence it can't get anywhere near the blade.
I do have a sacrificial plywood fence that I use if I'm ever cutting that close to the blade.
Your tenoning jig is rather swish 👍