Make Your Own Flashing Lights Freeform Sculpture With a 555 Timer

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Intro: Make Your Own Flashing Lights Freeform Sculpture With a 555 Timer

As always, you have 2 options you can either watch the video above or follow this instructable to create your very own flashing lights freeform circuit sculpture.


The 555 timer IC is an 8-pin integrated chip that is used in a variety of timer, delay, pulse generation and oscillator applications. It is known as one of the most popular integrated circuit ever made.


Now this sculpture is a bit of a challenging one, as we will be using a smaller package (SOIC-8) 555 timer. However, the template provided will help you.


It may look a little hard but with some time, patience, and the right tools it is definitely possible.

STEP 1: Circuit Diagram

First with the basics, if you would like to virtually test the circuit and play around with the components. You can follow the link to the Tinkercad Circuit here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jaZdfGmCIl7.


The design is based on a schematic from here: https://www.555-timer-circuits.com/flashing-railroad-lights.html


If you want to adjust the speed of the flashing lights you will need to change the value of the capacitor.

STEP 2: Using the Template

There are multiple copies of the circuit on the same page, I prefer this as it allows you to use 1 template to measure the brass wires and the other template can be used in conjunction with doublesided tape to make and hold the circuit sculpture.


The template also contains the circuit from the front and back view. If you decide to use the front circuit template the soldering is a little easier, however the soldering will look a lot nicer if you use the back circuit template as the soldering joints are all hidden.


There are multiple templates which also helps when you mess up the circuit :D.

STEP 3: Placement of Components

So, this is where the templates and the double-sided tape come in very handy.

Secure the small SMD components to the template and ensure that the polarity of the LEDs and the capacitor are correct.

STEP 4: Soldering and a Lot of Patience

Take your time at this stage and use some flux to help with the soldering.


I would also recommend holding down the components with a set of tweezers, so they don't move when you are soldering.


The first time I tried to build this, my soldering was not great and it didn't work so I made a second version which finally worked and also looked a lot nicer.

STEP 5: Battery Connection

I am powering the entire circuit with a 9V battery. But just wanted to share how I took the photo and how the little sculpture was powered with the 2 brass wires from the side.

STEP 6: Finish

That's all!


I do have to agree this is a little challenging, but it is a lot of fun. If you do make your own do share them here. You can also try to follow this guide and make something similar without using all SMD Components.

19 Comments

I have found that using SnPb Solder Paste in a syringe has been extremely helpful when using SMD components free hand. It allows you to precisely control amount and placement of solder joints. It’s a little pricey, but for aesthetics, it’s worth it and a small amount lasts forever.
Thanks for the tip, im going to have to give this a go with some new projects that I have coming up
Boa noite meu amigo! Antes de tudo.....obrigado por seu magnífico trabalho. Não repare minha ingenuidade neste pedido: estou iniciando em ferromodelismo e em eletrônica, sou muito leigo e peço-lhe a ajuda, pois quero montar um trecho de linha férrea com pelo menos 16 postinhos de led, imitando minha localidade. assim que der, vc me ajuda, como é na prática esta ligação. Vou usar uma fonte de 24 v, 20 mA e vou usar leds, ou amarelo, ou branco frio. Deus lhe pague. Envio abaixo o calculo que fiz neste software. https://ledcalculator.net/pt#p=24&v=2.04&c=20&n=16&o=w
THE RESISTOR FROM PIN 2 TO PIN 3 IS NOT CONVENTIONAL. CAN YOU POST A SCHEMATIC ? HARD TO FOLLOW THE CROSS CONNECTS ON BOTTOM OF 555 TKS
This circuit utilizes the output (PIN 3) pins ability to sink current in the "OFF" state instead of using the dedicated discharge (PIN 7) pin. Since the total current from the capacitor discharging and one LED is less than the maximum sink current it is a acceptable alternative.
Nice building technique.
SOME POSTED CAN YOU MAKE THE CIRCUIT SELF CHANGE A LIGHT SENSITIVE VARIISTOR WOULD CHANGE SPEED WITH AMBIAN LIGHT
SOMEONE ASKED IF YOU CAN USE A VARIABLE CAP HARD TO FIND A LARGE VALUE VARIABLE CAP A VARIABLE RESISTOR WOULD BE A BETTER CHOICE
Hi, what are the values of the resistors and capacitor in step 1?
For the 2 resistors going into the LEDs I am using 330Ω resistor (You can technically use 220Ω - 470Ω)

The middle resistor is a 47KΩ Resistor.

The value of the capacitor can vary and this will effect the frequency of the blinking. I am using a 22uF Capacitor. (Increase the capacitance to increase the delay between the Flashing)
1. Could you make a 4.5V circuit so that an USB cable or an old phone charger can be used as a power source? 9V batteries are getting too expensive. One can use a 9V adapter but USB and 4.5V are more abundant.
2. Could you use a variable capacitor to make the flashing rate changeable? Or some kind of circuit so that the flashing rate changes by itself?
Sorry just saw this today, don't get notifications for comments for some weird reason :/

1. Yep you should be able to power the circuit with a 4.5V source (Even 3*AA battery) I don't see any problems with it. Do let me know if you give it a go with a USB powered version (I may give it a go as well with some other circuits in the future).

2. I personally haven't played with a variable capactior on the circuits (it should work). To change the flashing rate by itself it would require some further components, which would make the circuit a lot more complicated to make.


If you clean the copper wire at the ends with a little abrasive pad or steel wool, the solder will flow better. CLEAN COPPER AND FLUX is the key to soldering pipes and wire. :) Other than that, great video and well done.
Thanks for the tip :D

I will have to give it a go on the next little circuit that I am making.


Hey cool.
I built it in the 90s with throgh hole parts.