Intro: Make a Good Quality Budget 3D Printer at Home With Upgradable Bed Space : Anyone Can Make

3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is a process by which physical objects are created by depositing various types of materials in layers based on a CAD model. All 3D printing processes require software, hardware and materials to work together. 3D printing technology can be used to create everything from prototypes and simple parts to highly technical final products such as aeroplane parts (US site), eco-friendly buildings, life-saving medical implants and even artificial organs using layers of human cells.

( Note:- If you want more information on 3D printing, its types and other guide comment out and I will soon upload a detailed instructable. )

If you are considering to own a 3D printer, then there are many options you may buy a fully assembled and calibrated 3D printer. For purchasing a 3D printer from the market, there are many brands and categories, from a quality, basic FDM 3D printer, which costs anywhere around $200-$250, to over a professional-grade printer, for over $5,000. If you want to start printing high-quality prototypes right away immediately, I suggest you invest in a fully-assembled 3D printer that’s been calibrated and quality controlled. Or you may buy a 3D printer DIY kits which comes with full instructions and guides on how you can fully assemble and calibrate or upgrade your 3D printer.

On the other hand, if you’re a 3D printer enthusiast and want a small amount of challenge, you might want to consider building your own 3D printer from scratch. You’ll need time and some patience if you are entirely new to 3D printing, but it can be much cheaper,(in this case, it is under $150) than buying a fully-assembled machine. More importantly, when you build a 3D printer, you’ll learn more about the machine’s configuration and the endless possibilities for customisation. So, in this following instructable, I’ll guide you how you can make your own best quality 3D printer at your home and will also tell about upgrades and customisation you can do in your 3D printer and some tips to make the process as easy and smooth as possible. And don't forget to ask question & comment for any query or extra information that you might want and I have not mentioned. So, without wasting much time, Let’s get started!

STEP 1: Materials & Tools Required

Materials and parts for frame

Parts ---- Dimension ---- Quantity

Aluminium profiles---- 600 x 50 x 25 (l x b x h) thickness(2mm) ---- 7
Linear rods ---- Dia - 8mm L- 500 mm ---- 4
Linear ball bearings ---- LM8UU 8mm ---- 7-8
Radial bearings ---- 608ZZ (ID) 8mm ---- 6
Threaded rod (along with T nut)---- M8 8mm OD ---- 2
Flexible Coupling ---- 5 x 8 mm ---- 2
Residual plywood ----240 x 240 mm ---- 1
GT2 timing belt ----- 3m---- 1
Bed levelling Screw ---- ---- 4
L-bracket -------- as per your customization-----8
Pulleys---- 20 teeth----4
Zip ties ---- as per your need ----1 packet
A lot of Screws, Nuts and Washers

Electronics parts

Parts ---- Quantity

Arduino Mega 2560 ---- 1
Ramps 1.4 ---- 1
Stepstick A4988 ---- 1
Power Supply(12 V 20 A) ---- 1
Heated Bed (Mk2b) ---- 1
Endstops ---- 3
Thermistors (NTC 100k) ---- 1
Stepper Motors(Nema 17 4.2kgcm)---- 5
V6j Hotend ---- 1
Mk8 extruder (left-hand type) ---- 1
A lot of Wires of different cross-section areas

Tools Required

Drill machine
Screwdriver
Soldering kit
Allen keys
Small Hacksaw

If you want to customize part digitally in CAD, then I have attached solidworks part file on my profile on GRABCAD. If you want you can download these solidwork files from this link Custom FDM 3d printer components.

STEP 2: Building the 3D Printer's X-Y Bed Frame

After you have collected all the materials and tools required for making the frame, the next step is to cut the aluminium profile in the required dimensions. Well, for making frame you can also use v-slot aluminium profiles which are easier to use but their major drawback is that they are quite expensive, so to maintain the budget I have used hollow rectangular aluminium profiles.

In my case, I have taken the dimensions 520 mm x 500 mm of aluminium profiles which can easily provide me with the printable area (heatbed) of 300 mm x 300 mm. You can also customize the dimensions of the 3D printer as per your need of the printable area but remember you must choose the dimensions of your bed in accordance to other frame materials like smooth rods, threaded rods etc.

Now, after you have cut the aluminium profiles into the right dimensions, you need to join these profiles with the help of the L- bracket and nuts and bolts as shown in the attached media.

You may also attach Z-axis profiles first and then XY- axis profiles or vice versa depending upon your comfort. Note that the Z-axis profiles should be attached at the middle of your bed frame profiles.

STEP 3: XY-Frame + Z-Axis

Now it's time to connect the XY frame which has been assembled in the previous step to the Z-axis aluminium profile. Again the same procedure has to be followed as in the previous step.

STEP 4: Attaching Smooth Rods Supports and Stepper Motors

Till now, you would have completed the basic structure of your 3-D printer and now it's time to add smooth rods to the bed frame on which your bed will move. There are many ways through which you can attach smooth rods to your 3D printer. If you are not tight on your budget you can buy pillar shaft support (sk8uu) for mounting these smooth rods tightly. I have used radial ball bearings to mount these smooth rods with the help of some hacksaw made aluminium holder which will hold the bearing tightly in its place. Note you should attach the bearing symmetrically as you have to mount smooth rod in them

For mounting the stepper motors, I have use zip-ties (I'll replace them with 3d printed stepper motor holder after my 3d printer is completed). Note try to mount the stepper motor (that you're using for your printer bed) in a position such that the pulley centre matches with the centre of the aluminium profile. Same procedure for the motor for the threaded rod but you must pay attention that both the motors should be perfectly opposite to each other for better movement coordination for the z-axis.

After attaching the stepper motor for the heatbed you must also attach two L-brackets on the opposite aluminium profile of the stepper motor in order to attach pulley between those L-brackets to create a belt pulley movement system.

STEP 5: Linear Bearing and Bed Carriage Attached to the Smooth Rods

In the previous step, you have attached the radial bearings at the proper position as per your comfort. Next step is to attach 4 linear bearings with the help of zip ties to the regular plywood in accordance with the distance you have provided between the radial bearings in the previous steps. Note that before this step you should have drilled holes on the regular plywood in order to attach your heatbed with nuts and bolt. Also, drill a hole in between the centre so as to attach the belt to the carriage.

Now, insert the smooth rods into the system of linear bearings and plywood and then insert those smooth rods into the radial bearing supports. In my case, I have not restrained the movement of the radial bearings in the upward direction so I was able to insert smooth rods in between the bearings.

STEP 6: The Y-axis Carriage

For building the Y-axis carriage you will need 3 short aluminium profiles of the required dimension which I have mentioned in the attached media file. However, you can also modify these dimensions as per your suitability.

Profile I Carriage:- This profile will hold your V6j hotend and will move on the y-axis smooth rods while printing. You will have to attach at least 2 or better 4 linear bearings at two ends of the aluminium profile with the help of the zip ties. After you have attached the linear bearings, attach a small L piece cut out from aluminium profile with a small hole in between one of its side so as to fit the belt inside this hole to make a translatory motion system.

Profile II Stepper motor profile:- This profile will contain the stepper motor along with pulley which will act as a driver for the carriage also. Also, drill holes for the threaded rod and holes for attaching the T-nut which will provide movement for the Z-axis. At the end drill holes for the attaching smooth rods with the zip ties.

Profile III single pulley profile:- This profile will contain pulley which will act as a driver for the carriage. Also, drill holes for the threaded rod and holes for attaching the T-nut which will provide movement for the Z-axis. At the end drill holes for the attaching smooth rods with the zip ties.

Note after creating the three profiles also create end-stops for the smooth rods which will prevent the further movement of the smooth rods.

STEP 7: Adding Threaded Rod With the Z-axis Stepper Motors

Now next step is to couple the threaded rods with z-axis stepper motor with the help of the aluminium flexible coupling. Before coupling the threaded rod take an aluminium profile or you can use any flat plywood of length same as the distance between the two z-axes and mark the axial position of the stepper motor axes with some chalk powder on the shaft of the stepper motors and getting its impression on the plywood. On these marks, you have to attach the radial bearings with the help of the Araldite or Mseal. Now insert the y-axis carriage setup into the threaded rod and roof the threaded rod with the help of the radial bearings on the ply. Attach these ply onto the Z axes with the help of the L- brackets.

STEP 8: Attaching Endstops, Heatbed and Assembling Extruder Motor

Now, attach the endstops at the end of X, Y and Z axis, you can attach as per your convenience or size of the endstop wires. Now it's time to attach heatbed to the plywood carriage with the help of bed levelling spring nut-bolts or can also use simple nut and bolts. For Assembling Mk8 extruder it's quite easy , you can do on your own. Later, I will attach a link for the instructions to assemble mk8 extruder.

STEP 9: Wiring the 3D Printer's Electronic Components

The main electronic component which acts as a brain for the 3d printer is Arduino Mega 2560 along with Ramps 1.4. Ramps 1.4 has to be attached on the Arduino mega boundary pins. For wiring, onto the ramps board, the schematic has been attached as a media file. I have used the image from the RepRap site to connect all the wires. While wiring please always note the polarity of the wire otherwise you may end up in burning your controller board especially while attaching power supply. While attaching A4988 stepper motor driver note that the text on pin matches with the board text. Also, don't forget to attach micro steppings. For the motors and thermistors polarity isn’t an issue. End-stops are easy to connect , + to + , - To - and signal to signal .

STEP 10: Setting Up the Software : Marlin Firmware

The software I have used is marlin you may also use other firmware. Configuring marlin firmware is not too hard well it's easy. You have to just customize some text in the config.h file for which I have attached the media file. Well, there are lots of tutorials on the internet. I will soon attach a video on how to configure marlin.

STEP 11: Testing and Calibration

For testing and calibrating your 3d printer you must download pronterface software. You may also visit this site with full instructions on calibration http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration.

STEP 12: First Print

After you are done with your testing and calibration, you are now ready to print your first object in any slicing software. There are many free choices in the market like Cura from Ultimaker or slic3r and many others.These software are easy to set up and you can also find many tutorials on how to set up your own custom 3d printer in these softwares. Later on, I will add a link on how to setup custom 3d printer on each of these softwares. Now, after setting up your 3d printer just enjoy 3d printing by importing stl files from various online platforms like thingiverse , cult3d , etc.