Making Liquid Fertilizer From Weeds

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Intro: Making Liquid Fertilizer From Weeds

Weeds, we've all got them!

Let's turn them into something useful.

Now I don't like putting weeds into my compost heap as you can end up with them spreading, the alternative is usually to burn them but they are full of nutrients so this is a bit of a waste.

Why not try to recover the nutrients and at the same time render the seeds from the weeds inert.

All you need for this is:-

A Container (in my case I have used a plastic 45 gallon barrel)

Weeds (no shortage of those!)

Water

I have actually looked iat some past I'bles since publishing and refer you to tim_n nettle fertiliser from 2010 i hadn't realised however it does give me the opportunity to enter the REMIX contest :-)

www.instructables.com/id/Nettle-Fertiliser/

STEP 1: Gather Your Materials

As I said I used a 45 gallon plastic barrel, found in a skip, originally container for mortar plasticiser.

I have a large garden so wanted a big container, if you want to make less then use a smaller one

I washed the barrel out just to make sure there were no nasties in it

The Weeds, try to find deep rooted stuff, thistles are excellent, but also dock, dandelions etc - dig the whole thing out including the tap root

You can also use other deep rooted "non weed" plants like Comfrey

STEP 2: Fill the Barrel and Add Water

Top up the barrel with weeds and fill with water

Cover and leave for 2 weeks minimum

STEP 3: Mmmmmmmmmm Stinky

After 2 weeks you end up with this slightly smelly tea (or soup), the smell isn't too bad - you wouldn't want it in your house but it is fine a few yards away!

Water this soup down 15 to 1 and then water on your plants about once a week

Top the barrel back up when you have finished for the day and it will be back to full strength in a few days

I change out the weeds about every 4-6 months, the old ones are almost completely decomposed and can now go into the compost.

This process releases all the good nutrients into the water so you get the following (amongst others)

Nitrogen

Phosphorous

Potassium

Calcium

Sulphur

Mangenese

Magnesium

etc

I watered my Kumara with this and won the local veg competition with a 1.6kg specimen (See Photo!), it also did wonders for my citrus trees, which were spindly and lacking and now are big and bushy.

Edit

A few people have commented about decomposition of seed heads, I generally get my weeds before they have gone to seed, but if you think that the seed heads may still be viable then I advise you to burn the weeds after you remove them from the soup

Edit 2

I watered my paddocks with this mix at a ratio of 10 to 1 I used approx 7 lires (70 of mixed) for an acre, it promotes grass growth and because the soil is richer the weeds don't seem to like it (I believe they prefer poorer conditions) Once you have sprayed your grass keep livestock off of it for 10 days to allow the grass to grow and any nasties to dissipate. Ideally spray before a rainstorm if possible (or during like I did!! :-( )

I will endeavour to answer all questions, and appreciate the comments and advice received so far

95 Comments

I think I have made a blunder. Yesterday I gave my trees this mixture straight without diluting it. Will this harm the trees?
I would thoroughly water the trees to dilute it a bit, however as it is all natural the worst I would expect is a bit of leaf burn from the "overdose"
I've soaked a big barrel with weeds from inside and around our garden and it's been soaking for approx 6 months now and the liquid is blackish in colour and there is also some white fungus growth on the surface. Can it still be used and at what ratio shall it be mixed with water before spraying the solution in the garden?
Yes, the mould is non toxic, just give it a stir. Use in a ratio of between 10to 1 and 15 to one (about a pint in a standard watering can)
1.It is believed that this plant (Comfrey) contains poisonous chemicals called pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs), and the leaf, root, and root-like stem (rhizome) are used to make medicine. Cant these poisons not affect our crops?
2.What other weeds can make a good liquid manure using this method?
Also for info we have our soil tested and have recently been awarded an organic produce certificate, our veges were tested and had less than one percent of the contamination levels of shop bought
Also just about any weeds(or plants ) will do, I just topped up with the end of season tomato plants and potato tops as part of the nightshade family I couldn't give them to the goats
Sorry didn't see your question until today, the natural poisons in most plants will break down very quickly to their constituents in the water
Can I put poisonous/noxious plants into weed bucket to use on vegetables?
Joseph
Absolutely, the natural toxins in so called poisonous plants like nightshade, comfort, nettles etc Wil break down in the "tea " to their constituents

I used a tall trash can with a tight fitting lid, installed a faucet 3 inches from the bottom, put a round paver in the botton, set a plastic milk crate on the paver and put in a mesh bag for the weeds. I can get the tea without opening the lid and I can add weeds as I get them

Sounds like a good setup

I made it but no image yet.

Cut top off a plastic 15 gallon drum. Threw in weeds I had pulled just 2 days before reading this instruct. Filled with enough water to cover weeds, placed brick on top to keep 'em submerged. Smell is something else, can't keep it in the garage so it sits outside. I'm hoping the seeds compost and will find out in a few months.

Cool, put some plastic or tin (or even cardboard) over the top and the smell will be contained

I have some suggestions based on my knowledge of the biology of compost and some of the processes involved.

The stinky odor comes from rot and anaerobic fermentation, and is not a good thing, and our recognition of the stench warns us of this. Methane is also released by this kind of fermentation, and the methane is a pollutant.

The benefits from the weed material can be gained without the stench by using other bacteria to break down the material in the form of pickling. If you damp down the weeds, put down a stone or something to weigh down the weeds, and start it with bokashi starter (I'm sure there are instructables on bokashi pre-compost fermentation), you will still break down the weeds and will still have a nutrient rich liquid byproduct, but it will not stink; it will smell like pickles. Essentially speaking, this kind of fermentation forms a sort of sauerkraut out of the weeds, pickling them. When buried in the ground, worms go nuts over pickled plant matter, and will eat it up preferentially, because it is easier for them to digest.

The side benefit of bokashi and lactic acid fermentation (somewhat of a misnomer; lactic acid is not the the only nor even the primary acid that is produced) is that the weak organic acids produced in the process boost the cation exchange capacity of the soil, making it more fertile independently of the nutrient content of the liquid.

Try it out. It's not that different from what you're currently doing, but it will definitely stink less.

Great idea, but I think you have changed the process enough to warrant making your own 'ible. I for one would LOVE to see how to do that entire process end to end.

TBH it is only a mild smell sort of like earthy compost, if it was too "ripe" then I would question it

Another point, who wants to waste beer on a garden project? It should be used for keeping the man happy and I don't know anything about that Cola rubbish...
I'm always in awe of people who can find odd things to do with beer, maybe someone can come up with a 'structable to make my day! Apart from making our own, natch!

Beer is for drinking not gardening, a bad beer is better than a good coke!

I just pour a little olive oil on the surface, that kills the li'l beggars! Organic if you like...!

If you want to be cheap use any old cooking oil (rather than more expensive olive oil)

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